25v is ok... remember each cell is about 2.1 to 2.2v.
so count the number of caps on the battery(s) times 2 and that is the nominal voltage of the battery. 12 fill caps is 24v, 18 fill caps is 36v etc. for flooded batteries.
Ok so replacing the deadman switch didn't help. Battery voltage is good enough.
Did you ohm out the fuses and make sure they were good? You did say you found them earlier.
The metal plate has battery voltage on it? what other information is on it?
model number maybe?
1996 EASI 57B9603578 doesn't tell me enough, that looks like a serial number to me.

The Voltage on mine says it's 24 Volts on metal plate! I tested the battery and it showing 25 volts! I put a new switch on the floor dead man pedal and that didn't correct problem! I sent pics so they could look at and show me what to test, didn't know you wasn't suppose to send pics. Also the batteries were replaced last year on this truck! Thanks

ok, what LaGrange asked is a good thing to do first, should have told you to before anything else. check the battery voltage on the battery. the guage may show green but let's confirm it. If it's a standup it's more then likely a 36v rated truck so the voltage should be above that by a couple volts or so IF it is fully charged. (older batteries will not of course).

and thanks for reminding me that it got rained on. Sometimes i get caught up in the diagnosis and forget ;o).
Still need to verify signal to the PC Contactor and verify the deadman switch circuit.

about posting pic's to the forum here? they only allow that if you ask them to allow it. Otherwise you can send the pics directly to someone if they wish.

When a battery is not used for a long time, the lifespan and ability to work again is greatly reduced.

Carefully attach your volts meter leads to the battery cables, and tell us what voltage you see.

The voltage from the battery could be very low, preventing the electronics from energizing.

Just found fuse box and electrical circuits but hear nothing clicking when turn key on! There use to be a clicking sound when it warmed up and nothing now! I took picture of the electrical box but can't figure out how to attach a pic file on this site! It showed full charge(Green Light) on the main charging unit!

I believe the whole issue is that it was setting outside covered and rain got inside the circuit's and there is corrosion on something! I fully charged battery and replaced the dead man switch this morning! Having problems locating the fuses? Is there a regular fuse box in 1 place or are the fuses in each line. I'm not a electrician so I'm basically trying to go step by step to find problem. The want $200.00 just to look at and diagnose the problem and $100.00 hr. To repair!

hi Donald,
Note: try and make sure the battery cells are filled to the correct level and is charged up fairly well, if not then charge it before you start. This goes for any electric truck you need to troubleshoot so you can get accurate voltages when testing with a multimeter.

First off, i'm very limited on my raymond info but if the trucks between the ET-B and ET-F hold true to their operating systems this code 45 has to do with the PC Contactor not closing when commanded. And if it is pulling in and dropping out on startup it may indicate other problems such as the steering circuit.

The only suggestion it gives on this code 45 is to run test O01 to test the contactor, and then run test I14 to check the FU1 fuse if they do close on the O01 test.
This is testing for a signal through the deadman switch circuit to the PC Contactor.
Now after looking deeper into this FU1 has to do with the steering circuit. FU1 is a 150amp fuse located on the fuse panel. (there should be 2 other fuses besides this one, FU2 and FU3, they are large buss fuses so do not confuse this with the small glass fuses).
Question: does the pc contactor pull in and drop right back out real quick? (also check the contactor and make sure the tips are not stuck together).
This would explain why it would be coding out during startup. It may have a steering motor circuit problem, possibly an open fuse.

There is also a note to check the contactor tips for being burned, suggests measuring battery specific gravity and cell voltage. Adjust battery cutout if it is too low.
FYI: to run these tests you need access to the maintenance menu's in the control system, this requires a passcode, raymond tech's were trained to change that from the factory codes of RAY1 and RAY2 to a special code they regularly change from month to month. If this is the case with your unit and you do not know the passcode then you cannot run the tests and will have to do this the old fashioned way using a meter and proving out the components and wiring.
I hope this isn't too confusing and helps you somewhat.
If none of this matches up with the configuration on the truck then i'll have to dig some more and see if i can find more accurate info for you.

Yes, you step on the plate to operate the truck! It won't even go through the warm up, but straight to the 45 code!
Model#
ET-B-96-03578
I trying to locate a sync

donald,
is it a pedal on a lever where the lever goes up into the panel on the front of the compartment? or is it just like a pressure plate in the floor? could be hydraulic brakes or electric, hard to say... i'll assume it's electric brake?
there should be a panel on front kick plate to remove or you may have to remove the floor plate (pull the matte up if there is one).
knowing the actual model number might help more... just telling us it's an EASI series leaves a broad spectrum to guess upon ;o) Reach truck? or standup stock picker counter balance? narrow aisle? Throw us a bone here sir.

Can anyone can help me locate the dead man switch cover or the location of the switch. I had equipment setting outside in front of garage and believe water may have gotten in it! It still comes up code 45 after full charge. It would help if someone may have a photo or video of location! Again this is a 1996 EASI standup machine! Thanks

If the switch that you found has 3 wires connected to it, then it is a Hall Effect Switch.

You can remove it, disassemble & clean it.

Be carefull not to lose the small parts that are inside of the switch.

Try all of this first, then let me know if you are making progress.

Where is the switch located at on the 1996 EASI 57B9603578. I can't locate the panel for it anywhere! This is a type you stand up in and there is a dead man switch on left!

you can remove and disassemble and clean the circuit board of the 3 pedal switches. I have done that numerous times for the past several years with excellent results.

be careful if you decide to do this, parts are tiny and you don't want to lose anything.

you can also simply replace the defective switch and continue with diagnosis.

they are Hall Effect switches.

Did you figure out what was wrong with the dead man switch? I'm currently having same problem and also store outdoors covered!