We haven't seen or worked on this machine for a few years, but the customer called the other day, no starting. One of my techs went out, I don't remember the code, but it could be the cam or crank sensor and he replaced both. He mentioned the cam sensor plug was cracked up on the outside. After this, he finally got it started and found he had a bad miss on one cylinder he thought. I ran him a compressor pressure tester to site, and checked again and found #3 and 4 cylinders not firing. We checked compression. Had well over 210 each, checked for an intake leak. All seemed fine. We installed new spark plugs in 3 and 4 ( yes- the special ones) and no help. We then swapped 3/4 coils with 1/2 coils and now 3/4 will run the engine, but 1/2 are no longer contributing. So.... We ordered two new coils and I went myself this morning to install. I tried to start the machine when I arrived, but it would crank and die. Installed the two coil packs, same result. I checked the 5 amp fuse at the injector and found that it was fine, but I would get a blinking voltage there, then when it started, the blinking would stop and the engine would die. I pulled the busted up plug loose from the cam sensor and I then get no "blinks" at the fuse, so this seems to indicate the problem?? Any ideas out there?
Nissan MCUL02A33LV
SN 9Q0119
Showing items 1 - 20 of 46 results.
I can confirm that we had a Tcm forklift with a k25 that would crank and die immediately, ended up being aftermarket cam and crank sensors for unit, sensors had been replaced before and unit ran for a short while. No start concern was present and after installing oem sensors in unit, unit fired right up
it turned out to be the cam sensor. I put the old one back in and it started. it runs badly but it runs. the ECM is in such a difficult place. I do have a lab scope it was just easier to put the Cam sensor back in. I have to re-order until I find a good one.
Oh. I did try one of these Generic OBD2 scan tools that you hook up with a computer. And it did work. I could read the crank and cam sensors. They tested good, by the scan tool. but I guess the ECM just did not like it. But not enough to show a code. which caused me to look the ignition and fuel system over with a fine tooth comb. its a old truck with only 900 hr on it. they might put an hour on it a week.
I would personally hook up a lab scope and look at the cam and crank sensor waveform signals, check your reference voltage and ground on both sensors. I would personally swap out both aftermarket sensors with oem sensors, I would bet money that is your problem, I have seen these sensors cause more issues than they have fixed, I have had bad cam sensors that have not shot a code-e28.
wouldn't it come back with a code or some odd bogus code.
Starlift crank sensor is probably your problem, get an oem sensor, I have had more than one starlift sensor not work right out of the box.
Say I have been using a OBD hand set to retrieve codes and clearing old code. It works well. But has anybody tried one of those wifi or corded generic OBD live data prgrams that you can use on a smart phone or a laptop.
Ok, What was the final repair.
started out cranks but does not start. have fuel. have a code E-27. I cleared the code with a OBD hand set as soon as you crank the engine the code came back. I unpluged both sensor plug, to see if just dirty connection and if any broken wires. did not find any broken wires. I checked all the fuses and tested all the relays all ok. I replaced the Crank and cam sensor as a brand set. I think they are Startlift parts. The code 27 went away. still crank but no start. I found this time I was not getting any fuel from the LPG tank. Customer had turned the tank off from the day before. Something went wrong with the valve. changed tanks it was very low, engine then starts and dies. Installed a full tank and still have the same trouble. starts then dies even if you hold the key in the start position it will start die start die. and no codes. I checked all the filter all clean. I have fuel to the mixer. and i can hear the throttle valve cycle whenever the key is cycled on and off. and the injector seem to be operating. If I was getting a low fuel pressure problem it would show a code. I cranked the battery down to **** so I had to put it on charge over the weekend will go back monday.
tvh sensors not the best but if you have a spark and not throwing up a code it won't be the cam or crank sensor the most common fault is air flow meter does not throw code have also had problems with shut off valve you can get them apart and clean the seat and plunger. I would bet it is low pressure can you check with uptime They also teach them self's to run best on a fault so when anything is changed you should do a fast tas relearn the temp of colant must be 80 or over otherwise it will not work will just keep on processing and you will have to cancel
trys to start,all parts new,now going to get oem,sensors,ones IN it from tvh,i got job,walk,into,to many hands on it,if it's like tcm,stick with oem t.u.only will start with fuel added
Steve,did you find the bug,having same issues with cat 5000,started with code 27sensors new,cam,crank,reg,injector,fuel sensor,tried bye passing lock off and fuel filter,same,only start with fuel added,but,unlike yours,when warm won't start,needs fuel,runs great t.u.plzs up date,cats,no help up here,they seam stump too.
if your pressure is OK you have replaced injector.Have you a spark.Think you will have to plug in and use the gse uptime
any help t.u. happy holiday to all
to Steve,was you able to to repair issues with cat ,having same,all new reg,injector,crank,cam,sensors,only difference is mine won't even restart when warm,unless add fuel then runs great.cat c5000 2007 w/nikki reg.t.u. forktrkman
where is assist injector?
all new,sill won't start,unless add little bit of fuel,then start and runs great ,shut off won't start,even after warm up,add fuel runs?????,new crank &cam sensor.any idea t.u.
Depending on model of truck , some had final chance screen behind the top mounted lpg pressure sensor and some had them located behind the fuel supply nipple on the injector holder its self. With KOEO do you hear lpg spewing? If so, it is flooding. See which oriface the spewing is coming from on the injector holder. if it is the larger hole 1200 o'clock position then you have a sticking injector. if it is the small hole at 3 o'clock position , you have a sticking relief valve in the injector holder its self. This requires new injector holder. but first be sure you check the small 5 amp fuse on the main lpg injector.
Can we back up to the comment about a last chance filter screen in the lp line? Are you sayin to pull the lp line off the injector housing inlet and there is a screen inside the inlet nipple? I have the same k25 that has a crank no start issue. I have spark at the plugs but I checked the throttle body with the air intake tubing removed and didn't think I was getting enough lp. I have plenty of lp pressure at the line coming out of the vaporizer to the injector
I always give the customer the choice on whether to use aftermarket or OEM - especially with electronic parts. I'm tired of eating labor because the part is incorrect or faulty from the get go. If they give the go ahead on aftermarket & it doesn't work then they get billed all the labor for the install of the bad part along with the new OEM part. Doesn't take too many of these situations to happen when OEM is all the customer requests.
Same here. Haven't had any issues with them for a while but won't use any more of these.
Got it. Thanks for posting. I'm starting to wonder about the TVH sensors now....
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