Hi Hyster Pros, would appreciate some advice on how to get stubborn wheels and brake drums off to work on the brakes!
I'm fixing up an old mid-70's Hyster E30AS that sat outside for "a few years".... for the detail see my earlier thread on this.
I have the forklift jacked up and blocked so the drive wheels are free to turn. I have removed all 8 wheel nuts and 10 drum nuts from each drive wheel. However, no amount of hammering/tugging/crowbar levering from behind the wheel/etc will get any of the wheels or drums to budge. Am I doing something wrong?
I'm thinking of lowering it and driving it around with only a few nuts turned on a few turns, to see if the weight of the forklift will break them free.
Note that I am not trying to get the rubber "tyre" off the steel rim. I realise that needs a large press.
Thoughts? Thanks!
Showing items 1 - 9 of 9 results.
Never mind. Thought I had a unique solution to this old thread
Ofcourse the first thing to try out is the wheels. However there is another option of removing the hub(with wheel) by unfastening the castle nut holding the taper roller bearings. once the hub(with wheel) is removed, then one can seperate wheel by hammering.
I use the screwdriver method ed talked about.Good to see Im not the only one who never has the propper tool for the job.
Appreciate all the replies Guys - good info! I'll give it a try this weekend! Happy Thanksgiving! Thanks!
I used to do the screwdriver thing in the split part of the cone. I also used to smack around the rim with a sledge hammer. You basically smack one side of the wheel, and it pushes the other side away from the axle and pushed the cones off. duodeluxe has given you good advice.
First spray all of the studs and cones with a good penetrating oil. Then strike all around the inner steel part of the drive tire (not the hub) with a sledge hammer HARD to loosen up the cones. You also may have to use at least a 2" diameter rod at least 4' long and smack the other side of the tire HARD from the opposite side of the truck. Try to hit on the steel part of the tire and not on the rubber.
Dave and Liftdoc - I appreciate the advice - thanks!
I tried it all with no luck - even driving around my driveway crossing expansion joints at speed (quite the teeth rattler!) with all the nuts backed off a few turns did not get anything to budge - not even 1mm of play in the wheels/drums.
Dave, I tried everything from a gentle tap to a good sized hit with a 4lb hammer behind a block of wood - no movement!
Doc, I think I see what you mean by cones - there appears to be a split bushing around each stud - yep, they are not budging.
Oh well, I tried. I plan to leave the nuts backed off a few turns, and use the forklift - maybe time and a few loads will work in my favor.
Thanks again Guys! Keith.
Been a while since I worked on one of these. I think driving around with the lug nuts a little loose is a good idea. I think there are cones under every nut that are a bear to get out. If it is the type where the drum is part of the wheel, you may have to back off the brake aduster. They drum may have a lip on the inner edge where the brake shoes have worn and you won't be able to get it past the shoes.
Hopefully this helps and im not telling you something you already know. Back off your bleeders on the wheel cylinders first to release brake line pressure. The ten nuts in the middle are for your axle shafts. With the nuts off give the centre of the axle shaft a tap to release either collets or the gasket seal, axle should slide out revealing the drum bearing retaing nut. Undo the nut and remove the bearing now your drum should come off. If not a bit of brute force may be in order. Sound like youve got a bit of a project on your hands!
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