Yale UNKNOWN:
GC-020-UAT-071-P Won't start

Hello everyone! I recently purchased an older Yale/Eaton with a Mazda UA engine. It hasn't been started in a few years. I finally got it to crank but the engine cranked as if it didn't have compression on a cylinder. I pulled the plugs and cranked it over with my finger over each spark plug hole and the #1 cylinder had 0. The rest had compression. After removing the valve cover I saw 1 bent pushrod #1 cylinder, and 2 pushrods that had the tips laying beside them #2 & 3 cylinder. The # 4 pushrod top was flattened on top and looked like it had been for a while. I found all 4 pushrod ball ends laying in the head. The # 1 cylinder pushrod was the only one not opening and closing the intake valve-hence no compression. These are all intake pushrods by the way. The # 1 cylinder pushrod was also broke which allowed it to move to the side of the adjuster. Has anyone seen this before and if so what caused this to happen? Possible oil pump? Just bad pushrods? Maybe an ether start attempt. All help is much appreciated!
  • Posted 11 Jan 2016 06:54
  • Discussion started by OffKilter
  • Kentucky, United States
Newer doesn't always mean better!
I can't help it. I am a little off balance!
Showing items 1 - 6 of 6 results.
Thanks mrfixit!! Much appreciated!

Regards,
Lenville
  • Posted 17 Feb 2016 03:45
  • Reply by OffKilter
  • Kentucky, United States
rod brgs 9002838-10 std. 9002838-11.25mm 9002838-12.50mm 9002838-13.75mm
push rod 9002848-35
adj screw 9002848-17 lock nut 9002848-18 tappet ball 9002848-16
ring set 9002838-02
  • Posted 16 Feb 2016 23:35
  • Modified 17 Feb 2016 22:12 by poster
  • Reply by mrfixit
  • New York, United States
Thank you so much! I think at this time the only part numbers I need are the rod bearings, pushrods, tappet adjuster screws, and piston rings. Thanks for the response and the cam gear number. You and your expertise are greatly appreciated!!

Regards,
Lenville
  • Posted 16 Feb 2016 11:11
  • Reply by OffKilter
  • Kentucky, United States
Newer doesn't always mean better!
I can't help it. I am a little off balance!
The UA and VA are different sizes and a lot of parts aren't the same. Different pistons, crank, cam, rod bearings, valves, gaskets. The cam gear seems to be the same. Yale part # 9002848-49. I think it's about $60. I wouldn't know if you could swap out a UA with a VA. As for FE or F2, no way. If you call a Yale dealer they should be able to get any parts. I have a parts book if you need any numbers looked up.
  • Posted 15 Feb 2016 22:26
  • Reply by mrfixit
  • New York, United States
Hey mrfixit, thanks for the reply. I pulled the head off after trying to pump oil thru the engine at the distributor using a drill. It makes about 80-90 psi oil pressure but gets none to the top of the engine. The oil supply hole under the rocker shaft mount is apparently plugged. I think it gets its oil thru that hole rather than up thru the push rods and that is probably what killed the pushrod cups. There is no valve damage or signs a valve has hit a piston. The rocker shaft has minimal wear and the cam shaft has no or minimal wear according to the specs I found on line. I am going thru the motor since there is so much sludge build up. I have 1 rod that seems to have more than normal up and down play(#4). I pulled the rod cap off and the crank is scored. It appears someone has changed the rod bearings but did not have the crank turned. The rod bearing shows less wear than the crankshaft. The rods are.025 but I am guessing I will need at least.050 for that rod. I will only change the others if needed. The # 3 rod bearing and crank look perfect. I hope the rest are good. I may need the main and rod bearings. I am definitely going to need the cam gear and gaskets. The crank gear looks good. I cant find a manual for that engine anywhere but I have found the specs. It seems that the UA and the VA shared a lot of the lower engine parts and cam shaft. Do you know if the cam gears are the same between the UA and the VA or if there is another alternate part that may work. I think the mains are the same but not sure about the rod bearings. Hopefully they are. There seems to be more parts and info on the VA engine. Also do you know if the bolt pattern on the back of the block(transmission mount plate bolts) on the UA are the same on other engines? I would consider using a different engine if applicable. FE, F2, VA, B series etc. I only have $200 and gas to pick it up invested in the truck at this point. I feel like it is worth fixing. All of the other fluids look like new and the truck has set for several years. I would prefer a good used cam gear at this point unless they are fairly priced new. I would really appreciate your opinion and any help with part numbers. Sounds like you have worked on this engine before. Is there any interchangeable parts from other engines to the UA? Any info would be greatly, greatly appreciated!

Regards,
Lenville
  • Posted 15 Feb 2016 10:53
  • Reply by OffKilter
  • Kentucky, United States
Newer doesn't always mean better!
I can't help it. I am a little off balance!
I've never seen that happen on that motor. Maybe if something happened to the cam or crank timing gears throwing it out of time causing the pistons to hit the valves and that caused the push rods to bend. I don't think the oil pump, bad pushrods, or ether caused that. You could try removing all the push rods so the valves stay closed and apply compressed air to the spark plug holes, then listen for any major air leaks coming through the intake manifold. If so, then it has a bent valve and the head has to come off. If that's the case then the timing gears need to be checked also.
  • Posted 11 Jan 2016 22:31
  • Reply by mrfixit
  • New York, United States

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