Hi Darth Vader;
The E-32 is an overheat error
The E-34 is an ignition system error
The E-36 is a fuel pressure sensor error
The "Self Diagnostic Results Erasing Procedure" (Without Service Tool) is as follows.
With a watch or accurate timing tool, turn the ignition switch ON with the accelerator pedal released. After 3 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and then release it 5 times. NOTE: The 5 cycles should be repeated quickly in less than 5 seconds ending in the released position. Wait 7 seconds, then fully depress the accelerator pedal and hold for approximately or until you see the alternating code and hour meter reading. Release the accelerator pedal for 3 to 5 seconds. Fully depress the accelerator, and keep the position for at least 10 seconds. Self diagnostic results are erased. Release the accelerator pedal. Make sure the self diagnostic results are errased. Turn the ignition OFF. Turn the key back ON and start the truck. Verify that there are no warning lights on and no error codes are appearing in the meter panel. The hour meter reading should be visible if there are no other issues with your truck.
In closing you should have the 4 psi fuel pressure if your regulator's settings are correct. Depending on the date of manufacture there was an issue with the throttle bodys leaking internally, this could lead to a fire hazard if your truck is within the particular build date.

Thanx for the help guys. Got the regualtor out and replaced the internals. Now the lift is giving me three error codes. e-32, e-34, e-36. She runs and im not wasting fuel anymore. Is there any way to clear the codes? Mr. Fixit, you were right. Its an '05.

if you can hear it dumping fuel into the injector body through the airhorn or airfilter then the main injector is dirty or bad.
remove it and clean it, if that does not fix it then replace the main injector.

if you follow the fuel line from the tank into the engine compartment the fuel line will first come into the lockoff solenoid,this has a small filter in it,take out four small bolts and canister with it in it should come right off,watch as there is a o-ring and seal here. the fuel line then comes from the soleniod up to the vaporizor. there is a 17mm hex on the top, this might be the pressure test fuel plug you mentioned,if you put a guage there you should have approximately 4.5 PSI while running and under load also

It is a Nikki unit and i am looking at two different things. One has fuel lines and coolant lines going to and from it, the other is about the size of a fist and has only fuel lines. The first one is flat and about the diameter of a soft ball while the second looks like a solenoid. Both are nikki. The larger unit has the larger hoses and "pressure test, Fuel plug" written on it while the smaller one has 1/4" metal lines.

If this truck has the NIKKI Regulator on it it can be rebuilt and dosent need to be replaced.

I think it is on the left side of the truck near the battery, and has a long hose over to the throttle body about 3/4 to 7/8 diameter. There is also a small vacuum hose to the air cleaner. That is probably where the fuel is dumping out; through the vacuum hose. Be sitting down when they tell you the price of the regulator.

That little **** is elusive. Good to find people with a sense of humor. Thank you for your help. Is there any way you may be able to direct me to where the regulator is located? Would it be attached to the throttlebody or its own unit alltogether? Possibly on a direct line from the fuel supply? Thanks again.

1987 and P6000 don't go together. Isn't it much newer than that? At any rate, the fuel regulator is bad if it is sending LP gas out the air filter at an alarming rate. It needs a rebuild or replacement. See if you can kidnap R2D2 and have him wrench on it for you.