Diesel_Addict I'd like to email you if you can share your email address. Thank you

Thank you Diesel_Addict,

Always great to get extra information that may help our readers in future...appreciated.
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I know this is an old thread, but in case someone else has the same issue that I did I wanted to share. My P6000 had the E-28 code a few years ago and spark plugs and coils cured it. A week ago it happened again and after a few starts with it in limp mode it would no longer start. It doesn't get many hours on it so I figured it was the cam sensor this time and not the coils and plugs again. I went to the local CAT dealer with the 91H2001170 part number; they didn't have an OEM part and said they could no longer get it, instead they sold me a Unisource Part # 80013525 that they stocked. With that sensor installed and the code cleared the forklift would sputter while cranking but not start. I put another set of NGK FR2B-D gapped to.035" and still no change. I put a new crank position sensor in and still no change. If I put the original cam sensor back in the E-28 code came back and it wouldn't even sputter while cranking, so I thought it had to be the cam sensor. I checked spark and it was erratic. Based on Swoop's comment about only using the OEM parts I search for CAT/Mitsu part numbers and could not find them anywhere online, only aftermarket replacements. I noticed that the original sensor had an NTK logo on it, so I went to NTK's site and tried to cross the CAT part # and even called and got no help finding a cross. I ended up looking through sensors for Nissan applications from the same period and found one that looked identical listed as a crank position sensor for a 2005 Frontier, Part Number EH0385. I ordered it on RockAuto for $6.39 on a wholesaler closeout deal. It came in today, I installed it, and it fired right up. So if you get this code and it is the cam sensor I would recommend ordering an NTK EH0385 sensor.

https://www.ngk.com/ntk-73310-eh0385-crankshaft-position-sensor

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10057448&cc=1434650&pt=7196&jsn=19

If you need a crank position sensor I would try NTK EC0238, which is the RH cam sensor for a 2005 Frontier. I have not tried that, but it looks identical to the original crank sensor.

take a cam and crank sensor with you
you can put coils on too if you like but i don't think they will solve this.

I could be wrong but generally when the crank sensor goes out the engine dies.
a bad cam sensor will allow the engine to run but just code all the time. I'd replace them both as a pair though.

Went there today and changed the sparkplugs.
Set the gaps to.035 (factory had them at.030).
Started , ran okay , No Codes !
They call 2 hrs after I left...
Wont start....
Going to change the coils tomorrow.

Thank You Swoop,
When they send me out there next, I'll put that info to use.
Thanks

tommobiletech
you can check the plugs and see if they have wide gaps from the electrodes burning , the normal plug gap for the spark plugs should be set to about 0.8 to 0.9mm or 0.035 in.
And do not use any other spark plug other than ngk or nippondenzo plugs, they will not work.
If replacing the spark plugs does not fix the problem then you are still looking at a bad cam sensor or cam sensor wiring problem, once again do not get the aftermarket sensor, use OEM only.
I have had too many problems with the aftermarket parts for this engine not working or lasting.
cat part number for spark plugs is: 91H2002860
cat part number for the cam sensor: 91H2001170
these part numbers may have changed since this manual publication but when the cat parts rep looks up the number it should change to the most recent updated number.

As for wiring up the seat sensor and seatbelt circuit to a 2 wire seat? There is a common wire #996(black), the seatswitch wire #610 (Lavender/Yellow) and seatbelt wire #609 (green/white). The common wire is in center of the plug. If the seatbelt does not have a wired circuit i would recommend replacing the one on it with a wired in one.

good luck

Yes red and amber are blinking.
Truck runs okay, buy there is a random dying no start.
(why im thinkin about the plug gap).
The seat was replaced and has a 2 wire sensor.
I can see If I can figure out how to make it work on a cat with 3 wire sensor.
Thanks for reminding me about the liability.
Im a homeowner and inshurance companys will come after me..
I did not get out to the p6000 today but it will be soon.

those 'dummy' lights blinking? (the amber ones, not the red system lights)
such as the operator presence light and the fork icon?

well generally by default if the those lights are lit the truck should not move or lift. And as far as the whole dash blinking on and off? that is a normal response with this code and it puts the truck in limp mode till the problem is repaired, sometimes even disabled. It will not stop doing this till the component causing the error is fixed and code cleared from the ecm memory.

But if this truck is as you said, bypassed (a big no no) and the truck is running normally i would solve that issue first for no other reason than to make it safety compliant again.

legally if you work on this truck and leave it that way and anything else happens such as an accident and that can be tied back to the safety problem left unrepaired its gonna be a bad day for you.

If i find things such as this on lifts i insist they are repaired or i will not work on the truck from that point on.

Got sent to a P6000 today with E-28 flashing.
Disconnected battery for 5 min, no help
Did pedal dance... no help.
Going back tomorrow to check spark plugs (Thx swoop223).
I will be inspecting the wires also.

-the call was random no start with random dying.
The seat sensor was bypassed long time ago.
the dummy lights are lit for safetybelt and no one in seat.
operator says its been like that a long time.
Meethinks those dummys blinking may be why the pedal dance has no effect.

Check the relays, fuses & there connections. We also found the VSM wire connectors very corroded. I miratic acid cleaned all VSM terminals,plugs & die electriced everything.
Ours turned out to be the TVH cam sensor my tech installed from the beginning. Turns out he pushed in one of the terminals on the cam sensor.
I had 15 hours in it to find his screw up from the get go....
The flashing code doesn t just go away after it is repaired. Disconnecting the battery, & grounding the pos terminal did not work for me. I had to do the pedal dance to clear the dash flashing code..

ok NGK's are ok

try doing the pedal dance to clear the codes or just disconnect the battery for 15 to 30 mins.
That should clear out any codes stored in flash memory.
If this does not do it then you might want to recheck the wiring and make sure none of the wires at the sensors are broken inside, these harnesses are notorious for this.

Just keep this in mind, every time you disconnect any sensor or component from the system whether it's running or not the system picks up on this and will set a code associated with that component.

If all else fails you may wind up calling a cat dealer to come hook up diagnozer and clear out codes that may be hard set into the ecm that will not clear out any other way. Diagnozer generally can also give a better idea of what is actually happening.

Yes I used all cat parts except for the spark plugs I used NGK.

hawaii,
did you use aftermarket parts?
i have ran into this frequently where the aftermarket parts just do not work, they install ok but still they fail right out of the box.

I have a PC-4000 with the same E-28 code. it ran rough then on next startup would not start.
we have replaced the cam and crank sensors
put in a test ECM
changed plugs
still cranks but will not start.
we have 7volts on the signal return from the cam sensor i believe 1.5v is nominal
any advise is much appreciated

Horse,
there are 2 common codes associated with this cam and crank sensor
E-27 which is a crankshaft sensor signal phase error
E-28 which is a camshaft sensor signal phase error
both work in common with each other and if either signal goes out of range from what the ECM expects to see from either sensor it will cause MIL light to light and code to display.

At first when the code first comes in there will be an immediate engine (limp mode) set so the engine will not run full speed. (this is something i've seen happen or not happen depending on where the problem is)
Tried to change the sensor related to the code which in this case the E28 would be related to the cam sensor.
Didn't help, code returned, even tried replacing the crank sensor, still no joy, code still returned.
Finally wound up checking the coils for any broken wires or other problems, none found, then last resort pulled the plugs and found a very wide gap so plugs were changed.
Problem solved, code went away and the truck ran perfect.
I have seen either sensor cause this problem, also have seen broken wires on any one of the coils cause this too. But the most common issue i found to throw either code was a spark plug or coil failure.

What causes the codes to set is the ECM seeing the signal from either sensor going out of range more than it can compensate for.
As spark plugs wear or coil pack fails it causes the timing dwell to change, ECM will compensate for this to a point, if plug gap increases too much or coil pack completely fails? ECM sees this variance as too wide and expected signal goes out of expected range and sets one of the 2 codes depending on which component fails.

Troubleshooting either code can be troublesome especially if you do not have a GSM diagnostic tool or the laptop program to monitor the signals. So without these it basically turns into a guessing game even with the troubleshooting information from the manual. And the funny part of it is the troubleshooting information does not even mention the spark plugs as being a potential cause, it always refers you toward the sensors or coil packs which is where most guys make that mistake.

And word to the wise, if you ever do wind up replacing any ignition component be it a cam sensor or crank sensor or spark plugs do not use aftermarket parts, use only OEM parts from mitsubitshi/cat. 90% of the time when i tried using aftermarket parts i always had to go back and deal with it again because of a part failure.

Horse,

I do not know about the code issue but make sure that if you do change the plugs that you use the Nissan original 22401-FU42A or NGK FR2B-D. Nissan went through several versions of this plug changing the heat range and reach.

Have you personally experienced this with the plugs? I had a code 28. Wouldn t run. Replaced the cam sensor. It now runs but the code is still flashing. I did notice a slight spark plug ignition miss. I m going to do the pedal dance & try to clear & see if that takes care of it. What bothers me is that I read in the s manual the the codes are suppose to clear by them selves when running normal.

how long since tuneup? has it ever been tuned up?
check the spark plugs
this is a known issue causing this code
rarely is it the sensor, i wouldn't rule it out totally but generally its been bad plugs from my experience

good luck

Ken n;
The fault code is the camshaft's position sensor "circuit" has a problem.
At start up no camshaft position (phase) signal has been detected and decoded for more then a predetermined period of time at the Engine Control Manager (ECM).
The camshaft position sensor signal is not been detected for a predetermined time period during engine running. (during crankshaft position signal input)
The camshaft's position sensor signal's waveform isn't detected for a predetermined period of time during engine running. (crankshaft position sensor signal is detected at the ECM)