Yale ESC030ABN24:
Drive Motor doesn't run

The hydraulics come on, so raise/lower/tilt work fine but when I throttle forward or reverse, I can hear (and see) the contactors pull in, but the drive motor does little more than an occasional twitch???

Any thoughts? This is an older machine, so no circuit boards, it seems to just have two contactors for fwd and reverse and a big honkin old SCR... and of course the motor. Not a lot to go wrong, I'd think!

Also, anyone know where I could find a manual for this machine? It would be nice to know if I'm putting the right oil in there
  • Posted 5 Aug 2014 15:33
  • Discussion started by rob_c
  • Pennsylvania, United States
Showing items 1 - 15 of 22 results.
im having same issues what readings should i have on card, this ev100 has no y connector
  • Posted 17 Aug 2018 08:19
  • Reply by danny_m
  • Oklahoma, United States
im having same issues what readings should i have on card, this ev100 has no y connector
  • Posted 17 Aug 2018 08:18
  • Reply by danny_m
  • Oklahoma, United States
it's always those little things that get you

the first things to check are battery, all related cables and connections. I guess sometimes something like that could be missed or over looked if the tech is inexperienced. The first guy sounds like he was, 2nd guy wasn't. I definitely would contest that bill though, why pay for something you never got :o/
  • Posted 16 Jan 2015 23:35
  • Modified 16 Jan 2015 23:35 by poster
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
Quick follow up... turns out one of the cables going to the field windings was pretty frayed, which was tripping out the EV100.

I had two different techs come in to look at it, the first screwed around for almost an hour and told me that my brushes were worn unevenly. He never came back to put in the new brushes, but did send me a bill for 2.5 hours labor - AND $40 for the new brushes. Yet my lift still didn't work.

The second guy came in, took about ten minutes to look over the truck, found the bad wire, replaced it, and left. No charge - he just told me now I knew who to call if I ever have any more problems. That was Dunrite Industrial Repairs out of Morrisville PA. Nice guy and clearly knows his stuff. The truck's worked perfectly since.
  • Posted 16 Jan 2015 13:06
  • Reply by rob_c
  • Pennsylvania, United States
Sometimes it shuts down while moving, sometimes I'll go to change directions in the middle of moving something and suddenly neither direction will operate.

Doesn't seem to matter if I shut it off or not... it usually stays dead for ten, fifteen minutes and the operates as normal for a while again. Raise/lower, tilt and steering are unaffected, just fwd/rev.
  • Posted 27 Aug 2014 13:48
  • Reply by rob_c
  • Pennsylvania, United States
To clarify what is happening, you are driving along when this happens and it just shuts down? Did you try turning the key off and then back on to see if it goes again? The negative feed to the F and R contactor coils can be switched off by a pulse monitor trip (PMT) that will shut the machine down if it senses a problem with the SCR rectifiers. Turning the key off and on resets it.
  • Posted 27 Aug 2014 06:48
  • Reply by mrfixit
  • New York, United States
Truck went out again, this time I stuck a meter on it and the six terminals behaved as before, then I checked for voltage across the coil of the contactors... nothing.

Possibly a problem with the EV100? Are they repairable, or only replaced as a unit?
  • Posted 27 Aug 2014 05:45
  • Reply by rob_c
  • Pennsylvania, United States
the whole point in testing those terminals on the control card is to verify you are getting a signal out of the card
from your tests you are getting this so you can rule out the control card as being the problem

now i would check the wiring from the card to the contactors

the problem could be something as simple as worn contacts on the directional contactors.
The contactors work in both pulled in state and relaxed state , there are contacts that have to be made in either state depending on the direction you are in.
check the tips for wear/burns etc
check the contactor wear parts on the armature of the contactor and make sure they are not worn out causing the contactor to hang up and not engage.
  • Posted 26 Aug 2014 22:34
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
OK, the truck isn't misbehaving right now (of course) but I put a meter on it to get a baseline anyway...

Main switch ON, DeadMan Switch ON:
1-2 : 20v
1-3 : 20v
4-5 : 24v
4-6 : 24v

Main Switch ON, DMS ON, Throttle FWD:
1-2 : 20v
1-3 : 20v
4-5 : 1.5v
4-6 : 24v

Main Switch ON, DMS ON, Throttle REV:
1-2 : 20v
1-3 : 20v
4-5 : 24v
4-6 : 1.5v

So yeah, clearly the bottom row is the directional switches.

For what its worth, I also checked for continuity between the back plane and each of the six terminals. With common to the back plane, and the main switch OFF, I got continuity to all six screws.

With tha main switch ON, I got continuity to terminals 1,2,3,5,6, but not 4.

If I switched to put positive on the back plane and common to the terminals, I got the exact opposite reading. So is there some diode action going on there?

Next time the truck dies out on me I'll check the terminals again and let you guys know what I find. In the mean time, do all these readings sound right?

THANKS AGAIN!
  • Posted 26 Aug 2014 21:42
  • Reply by rob_c
  • Pennsylvania, United States
the 'other end' of the wires is on the the six screws terminal strip of the ev100 card.
Battery powered forklifts do not use a frame "ground", and have wires from battery positive back to battery negative in every circuit, in fact one of the "first tests" PRIOR to ANY troubleshooting is to check to insure you do NOT have a 'short to frame' of less than 100k Ohms from any of the power cables.
  • Posted 17 Aug 2014 22:15
  • Reply by edward_t
  • South Carolina, United States
"it's not rocket surgery"
Yep, it's a little stand up.

I checked both the deadman and brake switches, both are opening and closing correctly. I did NOT check the wiring to / from the switches, as I don't have a schematic for the truck and I don't know where the other end of the wires are. I can say that when the main switch is in and the deadman pedal is down, the steering pump comes on reliably, and I don't hear it dropping out momentarily like I expect it would if I had a bad connection or intermittent ground.

That said, I will check the terminals on the EV100 and let you guys know what I see.

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!
  • Posted 15 Aug 2014 01:31
  • Reply by rob_c
  • Pennsylvania, United States
this is a stand up end control docker.
have you checked the service brake microswitch? (brake pedal on right side nobody ever uses) I have had problems with it before and symptoms are the same as you describe as well as the deadman switch as mentioned above.
  • Posted 14 Aug 2014 23:52
  • Modified 15 Aug 2014 00:00 by poster
  • Reply by stam
  • Ontario, Canada
there are wires #6 and #8 on the control card that control fwd/rev signals, (the same row of 6 terminals/wires edward is speaking of), test there for directional output signal to the directional contactors. (since this seems to be intermittant you may not see it all the time)
You also need to insure the seat switch is working correctly and does not have any break in signal, check the wires and even the switch in the seat itself and make sure it is not loosing connection.

And lastly the directional contactors are still suspect, they are known to cause these exact symptoms, i've seen them where they look perfectly normal but the insulators and other moving parts would be worn in such a way that they would not allow the contacts to connect correctly causing incomplete connection in the drive circuit keeping the motor from running.
  • Posted 14 Aug 2014 20:28
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
the six screws with wires on them on the ev100 card are inputs to the card that have to be 'made' in a correct order. tell us what the voltage is, starting with the left-top screw as 1, and go across to 3, then start as 4 the left bottom row (the last 2 are inputs from the directional switches, so let us know what direction is selected). we can then shorten the list of what is "dropping the ball", so to speak.
as far as what is left and right on the card, depending on how the card is mounted, the 2 smaller plug in connectors are on the left (we call them A&B plugs) and the 2 larger on the right (we call them Y&Z)
  • Posted 14 Aug 2014 20:16
  • Reply by edward_t
  • South Carolina, United States
"it's not rocket surgery"
If you're not getting the F and R contactors to click in at all, then also check the floorplate switch and brake switch.
  • Posted 14 Aug 2014 20:10
  • Reply by mrfixit
  • New York, United States

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