Mitsubishi FBC25:
Counterweight

Can anyone tell me how to remove the counterweight?

Thanks,
Jim
  • Posted 3 Apr 2014 09:07
  • Discussion started by JimBlackwood
  • Kentucky, United States
Showing items 16 - 28 of 28 results.
I stand corrected.. Thanks partsguy.
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 10:34
  • Reply by LTS1
  • Florida, United States
LTS1 just a slight correction on the engine depending on the serial number you can have and of the following Mitsubishi engines.
4G33
4G52
4G54
4G63
4G64
If you get the serial number someone can tell you the exact engine.
Also say a 4G64 used by one OEM is not the same for other OEMs also on a couple for Mitsubishi trucks there are early and late versions.
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 10:31
  • Modified 4 Apr 2014 10:33 by poster
  • Reply by Partsguy5
  • California, United States
Jim, glad the counterweight didn't give you a hard time. Other than the weight, it is fairly simple to do.
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 09:56
  • Modified 4 Apr 2014 10:34 by poster
  • Reply by LTS1
  • Florida, United States
Thanks. I forgot to look at the serial number but I brought home the counterweight, forks, covers and such. Should be able to get the rest tomorrow. It had one bolt and I only had to jump on the ratchet once to break it loose. 1-7/8" socket. Smooth as silk. Had some fun unloading it and will have to use my small tractor and my engine hoist together to pick it up and set it back on but that should work fine, and once it's back in operation I'll have something to lift heavy stuff with, which will be handy.

Speaking of which, the engine is shot, had grit in it (screwed up head rebuild in a waterjet shop, it's a long story) and probably best to replace it. What are potential donors for this engine?

Jim
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 07:34
  • Reply by JimBlackwood
  • Kentucky, United States
Serial # should help. But you still want to look in the rear in the recessed pocket to determine whether 2 bolts or 1 are used.
If the serial number begins with AF82B, it likely is a 2 bolt configuration. If it begins as AF82C, I'm not sure if 2 bolts or one. If the serial begins AF82F, I know that is a single bolt configuration.
Good luck.
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 02:47
  • Reply by L1ftmech
  • Tennessee, United States
Thanks guys, great info. We have another forklift to pick up the weight, and I'm pretty sure the bolt or bolts are still there since we lifted under the counterweight and lifted the wheels off the ground. Getting it back on once I move it here might be a trick but I'll manage. You are right, it's a lot of weight and every possible caution will be used, but I believe the equipment I have can handle it.

I'm going to run down there and have another look. The tag on the machine just shows it as being a Type G, FGC25. I'll get the serial number and maybe that will identify it more closely.

Thanks,
Jim
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 02:38
  • Reply by JimBlackwood
  • Kentucky, United States
just to be safe support the counterweight before removing the blot/bolts
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 01:05
  • Reply by cownd
  • Arizona, United States
orchidlane29@gmail.com
Depending on exactly WHICH FGC25 you have you will have a single large counterweight retainer bolt, or you will have 2 smaller retainer bolts.
The late models (FGC25K, and FGC25N) use a single large retainer bolt, I think it is 30mm diameter with a 46mm (1-13/16") hex head.
The earlier models (possibly FGC25 D up to the K models) had 2 20mm bolts and it seems like those bolts had 1-1/8" hex heads.
If you have the older model with 2 bolts, I hope one of the bolts has not broken its head off (leaving the remains of the broken bolt sticking out like a stud).
That scenario happened to me some years back that required us to use an arc welder to melt off the remaining portion of broken bolt before we could lift off the weight itself. It is possible that the bolts have fallen out already.
I also recall that those 2 bolt models had big issues with the ramped brackets that the counterweight rests on.
The problem with that was the counterweight bolts would loosen (and sometimes fall out) and then the counterweight would bonce up and down hitting the ramped surface of the frame brackets. The hammering would wear away a lot of material on the ramp AND on the counterweight. That would cause the counterweight to settle down further (in relation to the retainer bolt holes) and prevent your retainer bolts from entering their holes in the frame when you tried to remount the weight.
The solution for that was to weld up the worn away material from the ramped surfaces enough to replace what was missing from the ramps and from the counterweight.
If you have never lifted a counterweight off before, you need a heavy chain (5/16" links minimum, 3/8" preferred) that has a single grab hook on one end only, about 5 feet or longer.
After you get the propane tank bracket off, you will see 2 large holes in the top of the counterweight.
You drop the end of the chain down through one hole and using a coat hanger or wire, you fish the end over and up through the opposite hole in the counterweight. It may be necessary for you to remove the airflow grille in the rear of the counterweight (if it still has one) to manipulate the chain.
The counterweight weighs around 3,300 Lb. so you need another forklift, or an overhead hoist of sufficient capacity to do this job.
If we could post photos here I could show you exactly where the bolts are. You will need to have your eyes about 8" to 10" above the floor at the rear of the truck to see the bolt, or bolts inside their recess pocket of the CW.
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 01:00
  • Modified 4 Apr 2014 01:16 by poster
  • Reply by L1ftmech
  • Tennessee, United States
If you are standing behind the forklift looking at the counterweight, it will be down towards the bottom center. Usually there is a pin you have to pull up and out of the way to get to the bolt. I dont know the exact size of the bolt but it should be a socket size of around 2 inch. Its a pretty big bolt. It bolts the counterweight to the frame.
  • Posted 4 Apr 2014 00:16
  • Reply by LTS1
  • Florida, United States
Thanks, that helps a lot, the bolt is the part I haven't found yet. Can you give me any more information about that? Is it one bolt centered across the machine? Where in regards to the radiator? Can I see it from the top? About what size is it? Does it run vertical?

The forklift is at a different location about 20 minutes away so I can't just go out and look at it. The tank, bracket, and top covers are off but not the small cover over the radiator yet, so I hope I'll see it once that comes off.
Thanks a bunch,
Jim
  • Posted 3 Apr 2014 23:40
  • Reply by JimBlackwood
  • Kentucky, United States
Ok, First you take the propane tank off. Then you take the propane tank bracket assembly off of the counterweight. Take the radiator cover off, it is between the hood and the counterweight. Then at the very bottom of the counterweight there is a big bolt that bolts the counterweight to the frame of the lift. Take that bolt out. Then there should be 2 fairly large holes in the top of the counterweight. Run a strong chain down one of these holes and back out the other hole. This is how you will pull the counterweight. Then with another forklift, over head crane, or a hoist with a 2 ton capacity or greater pull up and back on the counterweight. The counterweight sits on hooks made on the frame of the lift. When you pull the weight and reinstall be very careful and go slow as damage to the radiator and or exhaust system may occur. This is how I would pull the counterweight.
  • Posted 3 Apr 2014 21:55
  • Reply by LTS1
  • Florida, United States
Sorry, wrong model number, not sure how that happened. It's a FGC25 Propane.

Jim
  • Posted 3 Apr 2014 16:29
  • Reply by JimBlackwood
  • Kentucky, United States
Jim, If your model is in fact a FBC25 you don't have a counterweight. The battery is the counterweight. There is a panel on the back of the lift. 2 bolts hold it on the lift. Inside should be the contactor panel.
  • Posted 3 Apr 2014 12:16
  • Reply by LTS1
  • Florida, United States

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