Hey Swoop,
I just wanted to post a follow up....
The ol Yale is working fine with no issues.
your fix did the trick! thanks again

I was thinking of a different Flight Systems....but, I found it and found the kit. Thanks!

Hi Swoop, Thank you for the referral and part number!

Never considered checking with Flight Systems.
I dealt with them some years ago for a voltage regulator board for my Onan Cummins genny.

I will check it out.
My Yale lift truck still working today! Great progress!

i found a site, flight systems (fsip.biz) that sells a plug service kit
GE EV100 Y Plug Service Kit
SKU: CN 44A723596G08
$51.00
i would post the link to the page but this forum does not allow website urls posted.

thank you once again.

regarding the connector pin components, can you refer me to a supplier of those ev100 parts in case i do in fact, need to repair a wire terminal on the future? im having trouble finding anything except complete ev100 units, used and rebuilt.

solar1,
glad i could help :o)
as for the dieelectric grease? you can put that on it if you like but it's not necessary.
on those connector plugs i'm not aware of any 'pigtail' type assy's anyone makes for those, i've always had to get the components separately. And they do make pin insertion/removal tools you can buy, they can be found just about anywhere that sells the components. This particular plug and terminal uses a small thin blade removal tool that slides down beside the terminal and deflects the retaining locking tab back so the terminal can be removed.

Hi Swoop, YOU the MAN!

After closer inspection of the card connector location pins, I found the location had some grit/grime. The pins all appeared to have white corrosion which i carefully cleaned, which was not an easy task trying to reach way down there to access the pins.

I cleaned the pins and gave them a slight twist, ever so gently.
I also cleaned to mating wire connector that plugs into the board location with plastic safe electronic contact cleaner. I then repetitively inserted/removed the connector several times to "wipe" the connectors. I considered applying dielectric silicone grease to this fitting since I found the corrosion, but was not sure if that was acceptable to use for this situation.

By the way, for reference, I did find additional spec ID tag on the card... IC3645EV OSC ASM.
Subject wire number was tagged "24"

This did the trick, at least for the time being.
After final reinsertion, I tested the wire by manually moving the wire checking controls for forward/reverse operation. The unit operation no longer "cuts out" while moving the wire.
Your solution did the trick!
Thank you very much

I was wondering if those black plastic 6 pin connectors are available as a "pig tale" with the wires, or only the plastic block and wire female pin connectors, in which case your mentioned removal/insertion tool may be required ???

Thanks for the detailed response!

The connector in question has the release tab, is black in color, is a 6 pin connector, but only has 3 wire/positions in use.

It is located directly under the capacitor.
I was able to pull/lift it of the chassis, although it was a very tight fit to clear the cap terminal.

It is located as the 2nd terminal connector location from the capacitor end of the ev100 chassis. The first 6 pin connector position is void with no connector attached.

I see the flat bladed connection pins you described; I have "re-tensioned" those type of pin connections in the past on other equipment, so I agree with your suggestion, Thanks!

I wish this forum allowed posting photos, but I believe we understand each other with regards to the connector type, location etc.

There is a white banded wire identification number sleeve on the subject wire, and I will try to clean it enough to read it. There is enough grime on it, that I'm concerned any cleaning will removed the printing ID along with the dirt.

I sure would like to get a schematic on this controller in order to fully understand the exact subject wire's destination and function. Im going to try to web search the EV100 controller for a schematic. Unfortunately, I dont see a model/spec ID plate without further scrutiny.

I really do appreciate the help here. I think that now having located the exact wire/pin location causing the issue, I can remedy the problem.

I will report back a follow up after I re-tension the pins and give it a small shot of plastic safe contact cleaner.
Thanks again for the help! :)

solar1,
it sounds like you're talking about the connectors that connect to the ev100 controller card? They do have release tabs on them, those are the only ones i'm aware of like this. All you do is press the release tab and pull out the connector. Depending on the options the truck has there would be two large plug connector called the 'Z' and 'Y' plugs that has about 14 or 16 terminal ports in it, there may not be wires in all of the ports on it but probably most of them. These are all the inputs from the panel and components. Then off to the side of that there are a couple of smaller plugs that may be 4 or 6 port connectors that are connections to the BDI and the other plug would be optional outputs for 1A and FW circuits. Which ever plug it is you'll need a terminal tool to extract the terminal out of the connector if it needs to be replaced. Don't worry about mixing these plugs up, they are all key'd uniquely to each hole they are plugged into so you cannot plug the wrong one into the wrong hole. If they do not want to just pull right out just wiggle them a bit and they will come out.
Do this one thing first though, unplug these connectors one at a time, get a small set of needle nose pliers and you can use those to reach inside the connector slot on the card and take those flat blade pins and put a slight twist on them, not an extreme amount, but just enough to offset them so when the plug is reinserted it will force the pin and female side of the pin to make better contact. Do this first to see if that is the cause before you try to repair the terminal. This was a known issue with these because the type of pin terminal has a tendency to open up over time when heat gets to it and the connection can get flaky. I've fixed many a truck by just tweaking those pins slightly and the problems went away.
Now if you do find that the wire is broken where it is crimped you might can get by with a solder repair by pulling the wire off the terminal, striping it off some and soldering the wire back to the terminal in the connector. I personally would just remove the wire terminal and install a new one but i have the tools and pins to do it with, you may not ;o).

Thanks Swoop.

I posted an update reply a couple days ago, but it apprears the web site doesn't always post them for some reason.

So, I will try again here.

In further checking of wires/harnesses, I found a wire that when bent certain directs would get the truck respond to the pedal and forward/reverse once again.

The problem is right at a connection block which plugs into the EV100 chassis.
I want to pull the connector off the chassis to inspect repair the wire, but I'm a bit hesitant to do so without knowing much about the controller.
There is a release tab on the harness connector which I can release. I assume the plug just pry's straight up, but I don't want to force it. It is located directly under the C1 capacity mounted to the chassis.
I may need to remove the cap to undo the connector.


Can anyone add any suggestions' before I attempt the connector removal?
Thanks

solar,
yep, if you can manually push it and the truck runs ok then i think it's safe to say the contactor is probably worn out.
You can get a rebuild kit but by the time you do that and rebuild it you can just get another contactor assy and the cost would be negligible and quicker.

This happens when they get worn out, the tips can get compressed or burned down, springs get weak, bushings get worn causing the armature to drag, several things can cause it not to work right. the tolerances on the contact tips sometimes are not as much as one might think, they might look fine but if they wear off or compress enough the travel bottoms out and they just do not connect good enough naturally. You proved that by pushing them manually and the truck ran. So either rebuild it or replace it. Just FYI, the fwd/rev contactor assy are one unit build on a single chassis so you can't just do one side or the other, both sides of it have to be done together, if you've never rebuilt one before then i would suggest just getting a replacement to save you some headaches. It's like a puzzle that has to be assembled just right or you can damage it unintentionally.

thanks for responding Swoop.

batteries fully charged.
i have not inspected armature, but based on age alone i would not hurt for me to inspect.

i can tell you that since the posting a couple days ago, i have found that if i select forward or reverse with the direction shifter lever and manually push in the correct contactor, the pedal speed control/scr controller works correctly, and i can move truck with variable speed.
that leads me to believe that it is relay/contactor issue or wiring.

i wish i had a schematic of the wiring; that way it would be much easier to track down the affected circuit paths.

contactor contacts look good whit normal wear.

First of all make sure your batteries are charged well enough to run the truck, if they are discharged it can cause current overload and make the system trip out due to high amp draw.
with that said...
now...
from the sounds of the symptom it might be a PMT fault.
check your directional contactors, if they are worn out or burnt up chances are they are not making a good connection or if the armature bushings in the fwd/rev contactor are worn out it is not tracking straight and the contacts may not be making correctly. This would be my first guess....
second guess might be a faulty scr on the control panel.
Usually it might be caused by a 1REC being shorted or the 1A contacts being welded together or in some rare cases the 3REC diode being shorted.