Yale GLP050RGEUAE086:
Aisan Fuel Pressure Regulator question

We have a Yale LP truck which has healthy spark but won't fire. I found that pressure was making it into the regulator, but little to none coming out of the larger hose going from the regulator to the mixer (carb). I tore apart the Aisan regulator and inspected it. The diaphragms were both good. There were two valves, one barrel shaped with a triangular shaped spring behind the back diaphragm, one on an armature. The one on the armature was just fine, however the barrel shaped valve had cracked and broken rubber seal. My question is this...does anyone know if that bad barrel shaped valve (with the triangle shaped spring) would cause a lack of fuel pressure going to the carb? I am used to an excess of pressure when a regulator fails. I already ordered the diaphragm and valve kit, I am just trying to decide if I should replace the top solenoid and the fuel lockoff solenoid on the regulator as well.

Thanks for reading!

Thanks for reading!
  • Posted 12 Jul 2017 02:27
  • Discussion started by SolarNinja
  • Washington, United States
If at first you don't succeed it's probably because you need more money.
Showing items 1 - 7 of 7 results.
BREWSKI and any other interested parties,

The rebuild kits finally came (the diaphragm kit was separate from the valve kit) and I was able to get the truck running. I believe the barrel shaped valve behind one of the diaphragms in the AISAN regulator was the culprit as the rubber seal was starting to crack off. However, I did also push isopropyl alcohol through the idle trim injector by filling up the hose with alcohol and applying 12VDC to the terminals while blowing through the hose with my mouth. It looked rather dirty on the tip, and a bunch of brown colored liquid came out of the injector a few times I flushed it 5 or 6 times with isopropyl. I did soak the injector in an ultrasonic cleaner twice for a half hour, followed by an isopropyl flush. I hear many people on here say that you cannot clean these injectors, that you need to buy a new one. Seemed pretty simple to me, but I have no idea what the thing looked like on the inside. 9200 hours on this truck. I think it is very likely that it was just the valve behind the diaphragm in the fuel regulator that was causing the "no fuel" issue, and that the idle trim injector was just fine, but I have no way of knowing because I rebuilt the regulator and cleaned all of the solenoids at the same time. I hope this information helps someone else, and thank you for your help BREWSKI for helping me identify all of these fuel system parts, your assistance was integral. Now I need to find a local forklift service shop that is local that will not try and rob me, but that's for another thread. Best regards, Monte
  • Posted 18 Jul 2017 00:56
  • Reply by SolarNinja
  • Washington, United States
If at first you don't succeed it's probably because you need more money.
You are correct. The main component is the ECU, it controls all the electrical components in the fuel system. The best way to check the trim injector is remove it from the manifold and hold it in your hand. Turn on the ignition. You should be able to feel and hear the pulsing of the injector.
  • Posted 14 Jul 2017 22:34
  • Reply by BREWSKI
  • Nebraska, United States
Okay BREWSKI,

I still have the regulator torn apart, got the valve kit but am still waiting on the diaphragms. However, I bench tested the fuel lockoff solenoid, the idle bypass solenoid and the idle trim injector. The fuel lockoff sucked the piston up in the body nicely with 12VDC applied, the idle bypass solenoid allowed flow only with 12VDC applied, and the injector I filled with denatured alcohol and tried to blow through it, when I gave it 12VDC a bit of brown stuff came out followed by clean denatured alcohol. I filled up the hose a couple of times with alcohol and blew through it. Then I soaked it in an ultrasonic cleaner for 20 min or so...I'm going to give it another half hour or so then push one more shot of denatured alcohol through it. I cleaned all the ports through the regulator and replaced the valves, now I just need the diaphragm kit so I can put everything back together. Everything seems to be checking out. The only things that I didn't check is for power at the actual connector for the idle bypass solenoid when cranking, and I'm not sure how to test for power at the injector, but I will hook a meter up to it and see if I get anything. I suspect that the idle trim injector was gunked up, and that's it. Will post results again when I have the truck put back together, hopefully tomorrow. There really isn't much else in this fuel system, is there?
  • Posted 14 Jul 2017 07:22
  • Reply by SolarNinja
  • Washington, United States
If at first you don't succeed it's probably because you need more money.
I have the battery on my bench re-conditioning and the LP regulator AISAN unit torn apart on my bench ATM. Tomorrow when I get the rebuild parts in I will put everything back together and test the idle bypass solenoid as well as take a look at that trim injector and post my results. Do you think I am safe soaking that trim injector in diesel fuel to clean it? That's what I hear the industry standard method of cleaning injectors is, but that's for gas injectors...not sure if there is much of a difference though.
  • Posted 12 Jul 2017 06:56
  • Reply by SolarNinja
  • Washington, United States
If at first you don't succeed it's probably because you need more money.
I checked the voltage at the fuel lockoff solenoid and got 9.6 VDC. A screwdriver stuck to the body of this solenoid while cranking. I have yet to check for voltage at the idle bypass solenoid. I believe this truck DOES have the trim injector on the carb. Down low, behind the carb (towards the firewall) there is one single electrical connector with one purple and one gray wire. The thing that this electrical connector goes to has a hose coming off it that goes to another unit which has a hose going to the fuel regulator.

Wow BREWSKI, you sure seem to know your lift trucks! Thanks for your help.
  • Posted 12 Jul 2017 06:16
  • Reply by SolarNinja
  • Washington, United States
If at first you don't succeed it's probably because you need more money.
Does this truck have the electrical trim injector at the base of the throttle body?
  • Posted 12 Jul 2017 04:47
  • Reply by BREWSKI
  • Nebraska, United States
Not sure about the barrel shaped valve. The upper solenoid is the idle bypass solenoid. It needs to open at start. The lower solenoid is the lockoff. it must open at start also. If either one fails to open you will either get too little fuel or no fuel. Have you checked for voltage at the solenoids while cranking?
  • Posted 12 Jul 2017 04:46
  • Reply by BREWSKI
  • Nebraska, United States

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