I just purchased a 2005 Nissan 50 at a auction and it starts but is not running right it sounds like it is not in time right it is popping in the air filter area when you try to give it gas. Is there any common problems with these? When it is idling it sounds like it is missing.
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not sure what vaporizer you have on this truck, i will assume it is an aisan? These usually operate at a pressure of around 32-36kpa (4.6 - 5.2 psi)
so the pressure you said is around what it should be.
your problem may be in the injector body or throttle body.
but as was suggested, if you are not familiar with this truck get a qualified service tech to come out and properly diagnose this issue.
good luck
fabandy i am going to highly suggest in getting a factory trained tech to come out and diagnose your woes as you are compounding the problems with adjusting the regulator. We cant win them all and if we could, we would not have a job.
i finaly got some time to look at this fork truck and i think it is in the vaporizor but am not for sure the truck will start and idle good but as soon as you try to giv eyou throttl it bogs out and i checked the out put on the vaporizor and it only has about 4 lbs of pressure all the time. I adjusted the vaporizor manually and got the pressure to go up but it stayed there all the time and did not go up or down. any help would be great.
Edward i dont like the word removal but if he has to do so he will have 3 head gaskets to choose from. Gasoline only, dual fuel and lpg.
The timing gears are pretty much bullet proof on these units as i have never had to replace a set. Possible if the engine has been run hot hot that the valve seat has dropped. I am hoping he performs a comp check before pulling the head tho. A dropped valve seat will be easy to identify by checking the return height of valves with a straight edge laid across valve train with rocker rack removed.
Check to see if you do not have a couple coil connectors on wrong coils ( like crosswiring plugs wires). As edward also said make sure your assist injector is assisting and not letting unit lean out. Check valve lash and set on.017 cold or.015 hot. Perform a compression test on all cylinders. Anymore codes?
This sounds a lot like a bad assistant injector (as has been mentioned) or a burnt valve or head gasket. I think you are going to get to pull the head.
There are some known 'less than perfect' wire concerns with the wires right near the throttle body, and checking them for continuity from the ECM to the injectors and throttle body would certainly cost less than throwing parts at this truck.
also if you give it any throttle at all it just pops through the intake and dies out.
I appreciate all the comments unfortunately I work more than on the computer and we are in the middle of having a whole bunch of new equipment put into our shop so I have been busy. I checked spark with a spark tester and compression was ok. I will have to check the intake for a crack. I was wondering if there was any problems with the wiring harness on these I have heard from some one who worked there that it was in need of a new harness.
the manifold cracking must not be all that uncommon as i've seen others mention this problem before on these engines.
I myself have never had to deal with that but i've seen enough references to not ignore the probability of it being part of the cause.
funny you should say that, just had an intake manifold crack last week, first one I have ran into on this motor.
One last effort here......... If your valve lash is good and compression is good along with known good plugs and coil over, check your intake manifold for crack between #1 and #2 cylinders.
I will be surprised if we get a follow up on this one! Thanks edward LOL
It would be awesome to have start and hear on this website (kind of like scratch and sniff in them old reader digest).
You guys are awesome. Thanks for the chuckle.
swoop & ed, stop that!!
I don't think you guys know how hard it is to clean coffee off of a keyboard and monitor.
Not only would unplugging the coil pack set a code, the computer in these things does such a good job trying to keep it running good that the RPMs don't really drop, and it runs pretty well with only 3 cylinders, at idle you have to be pretty familiar with these motors to even notice the miss, and unless it runs for some long time (usually at idle), it might not even set an O2 sensor code.
I would also make sure it has an air filter installed, as the "throaty" sound this motor make through the air intake without an air filter might be described as "strange and like a miss".
I usually hope that whomever we are communicating with [that has disappeared] has not bent over the motor and gotten their tie caught in the fan. [also just kidding with you, Fabandy]
:-)
pops during acceleration?
sounds to me like a burnt valve
i guess it could be a vacuum leak too so I'd eliminate that possibility first but I'm going with the burnt valve.
a simple compression test will confirm if it is or not.
yeah edward I'm curious too how he would know about the spark if it has coil packs on it. I suppose unplugging one while running would tell the story but would also create other issues like codes and limp mode probably.
He hasn't been very responsive in the past couple days....
hope he didnt stick his tongue to it and hurt himself...hehehe
just kidding ;o)
fabandy..... you still there?
when you say "spark is good" how do you know?
Do you have the cables and software?
How many hours are on this motor? It may be time and the least expensive move to replace all the coil packs and spark-plugs (and as is often noted, use the OEM plugs, and not an auto store's "will fits" in this motor PLEASE, not for you, unless you are who has to remove the plugs next).
Also this truck, as shovel_fx noted above, has an "assistant injector" that must work correctly or you get symptoms like these (mostly under load or acceleration), and there is a "Fast-tas" [idle air volume] learn-in procedure that has to be done with the software, that can also cause these symptoms if certain related components are changed.
AS far as what you are calling "the battery light", and beeping? Is this something that looks like a "d" cell flashlight battery? That is the swing out LPG tank bracket warning. Swing the LPG tank bracket back into place.
I have found the valve adjustment tight on the K21 and K25 engines causing a miss several times. I would check the plugs and coils. I think the valve adjustment is.015. Most of the failed sensors will create some type of code except for the assistant injector.
Check your Phase (camshaft) and Pos ( crankshaft ) sensor wiring for possible debris/plastic pull on wires from stuff being spun by cooling fan.
What is the FULL model AND serial Number of the truck??? How many hours are on it?
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