It is either the parking brake seal or torque converter seal. Either way you need to pull the engine and replace both while you're at it.

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I am back to working on the forklift. I have a pretty substantial fluid leak from where the motor bell housing is. Any chance you could post the link to those manuals again.

check for broken brake return spring...note do only one side at a time as the diff will rotate out of position if both axles are pulled at the same time...also replace the axle seals and o ring

check for broken brake return spring...note do only one side at a time as the diff will rotate out of position if both axles are pulled at the same time...also replace the axle seals and o ring

Located the manual, like mrfixit said, the mast stayed in place, removed the planetary drive, oil leaked out as expected, pulled the drum, immediately found the culprit, both shoe springs were broken, i reworked some springs found at the local parts house with some heat and bending, and reassambled the lift while i wait for the proper springs to arrive. Lift is all back together and working as normal. My pads still had at least 5/16 of friction material on them so no need to change them.

When the correct springs arrive i will replace them, and then do the non-problematic side as well.

here are links to the manuals i found


service.clarkmhc.com/Serv_Manuals/O-160-1/index.html

service.clarkmhc.com/Serv_Manuals/Code130/index.html

You're on the right track. Remove the bolts, nuts on the studs, and brake line. Pull the whole axle end out. The only oil that leaks out is where the shaft that comes out with that assembly goes into the transmission. It has nothing to do with the mast and that will still be secure in place. The brake drum will be right there. They are dry brakes. All the parts are available from anyone that sells forklift parts.

So the mast of the lift pivots around the differential (blue circle in picture below), I'm guessing that if you pull the bolts (circled in red, and the blind ones you cannot see that have studs accessed from behind) the mast becomes unsupported). So i will have to move my wood dunage back to the frame behind the wheels to support it.

i.imgur.com/Gk6BCy7.jpg

I'm wondering if i do one side at a time if i can get away with leaving the mast connected, and not having to worry about taking the thing totally off the tilt rams, and the hoses for the main ram.

If i do find the shoes or wheel cylinders are bad, what are my chances of getting replacement parts?

Model Serial number is: C20B 474-532 16

Ok so i just got done doing some testing, during these tests i NEVER touched the brake pedal, i just shifted at idle directly into F N and R, Started the forklift up, let it idle for about 30 seconds to get all the fluids pumping, put it into F and it sorta jolts forward about an inch and then stops and you can hear the engine under load, give it a stab of the gas and it will release and start driving forward. Shifted it back into N hopped off and i could push the lift forward by hand (heavy son of a gun) but when i tried to pull it backwards by hand it definitely locked up against a brake, like a ratchet? In reverse it does the same thing but when you put it in back neutral it doesn't seem to want to go forward or backwards when pushing/pulling by hand. It also has sort of an intermittent kind of drag (what would feel like a warped drum on a car) until the thing fully breaks free.

Could it be in the parking brake? is this a separate brake from the normal brakes? Remind you i never touched the brake pedal during these test, but in other times touching the brake pedal initially (before you actually press into the braking action) has the same effect as shifting to neutral (which is desired) and has the same result as above, shifting into neutral then back into gear.

Parking brake cable is slack, and the arm it's connected to (which looks like it goes to a lever through the bell housing), is fully in the released position.


Edit: So my buddy came by the shop and he said it seems to feel like a brake shoe is grabbing and locking, i tend to agree with this so i got the front up in the air with our overhead hoist and put it up on blocks, took the right wheel off, and pulled the hub, started it up and the planetary drive gear spins immediately, and stops when you apply the brake, Left side is locked up, so the problem is definitely in the left brake, the open differential is putting the motion to the right since the left is locked. I think these brakes are in an oil bath so opening it up is going to be messy. Will update with pictures, not sure about the order to take this apart.

Does this lock up happen only after pushing on the brake petal? Are you using the parking brake at all during this locked up problem?

I have a C20b of the same era (60's) and the brakes seem to hang going from neutral into gear, or between forward and reverse, throttle just slips the converter until the brakes release then it jolts, any time you press the brake pedal and release it does this. It sounds like this problem described with the inching "slave cylinder" above, and yes two brake lines go on top of the trans into a body. I can post pictures if it helps, any guidance on what i should be looking for to fix this problem?

My forklift is basically in-operable because of this issue, as i don't want to abuse it when there is clearly something going on.

Sweet! Your Clark should have a dipstick on top of the differential behind the mast. Needs to be checked running as I recall. Even though the dipstick doesn't state it. My favorite is tractor hydraulic oil as transmission oil.
There is also an inching "slave cylinder" on the top of the transmission as I recall. It has a brake line going to it and a bleeder that requires a 1/4" wrench. I have seen these hang up due to rusted/ broken internal springs and cause a transmission to slip. Might want to take a look at this.

Ok I took apart the vaporizer and cleaned it all out. put it back together and fixed a couple of water leaks and it started right up and idled perfect. let it warm up and went to full throttle and adjusted the bottom needle valve on the carb. I am stoked. all the hydraulics work great. the trans is a little slow to shift between foreword and reverse but I don't even know where to check the oil. all that can be sorted out later. Thanks for all the help. I am sure I will have more questions. You guys rock

duo- you are correct that in fact that tune up parts are cheaper at TVH then NAPA- but the their quality ***. I can't tell you how many times I've had to replace tune up parts from TVH because customer went to the dealer, bought what he thought were manufacturers parts ( & paid manufacturer prices) only to find out that they were aftermarket junk.

I almost never have a problem with the parts from NAPA & when I do- they replace them- no questions asked- no RA forms to fill out, no lost credit, etc.

I would be shocked if the parts aren't a lot cheaper from Clark or any dealer that can get them from TVH. Whenever I source tune up parts, filters, bearings etc. locally they are way, way more expensive than getting them from TVH or sometimes directly from a dealer. My guess is they all are made in China anyway.