Clark CGC30:
wont start/run

all of a sudden motor acted like it ran out of fuel. now it wont start. changed diaphragms in vaporizer, didn't help. checked spark at plugs, have spark. checked fuel supply at vaporizer, have fuel when line is cracked and engine is cranking. checked hose coming out of vaporizer going to carburetor to see if fuel was coming out, its not. looked in oil fill cap hole to see if rocker arms were working, they are. Ether wont even start it. Is it possible that timing belt/chain jumped, and now its way out of time??
  • Posted 3 Jan 2019 13:29
  • Discussion started by wise000
  • Illinois, United States
Showing items 1 - 5 of 5 results.
thanks for the replies. found out it was head gasket. then took head to machine shop to get valves done. found out from them that the head had hair crack in it so i replaced with new head. bought both timing belts. gears are good. putting all back together now. all seems to be lining up perfectly. gonna put intake on and. work on distributor tomorrow hope all goes well and starts. thanks for all the help. i definitely found my problem. should be good to go
  • Posted 19 Jan 2019 10:01
  • Reply by wise000
  • Illinois, United States
i would definatly check the timing belt and gears and make sure it hasnt just jumped a tooth or 2, also remove the timing cover and check the gears at the crank and oil pump, they can wear and cause a slip.
When you check the timing rotate the engine around till #1 piston is on TDC, verify that with the mark on the crank pulley, it has a knotch that lines up with a mark on the timing cover or a mark or pin on the block.
Once you get the crank verified at TDC check the other timing marks on the gears, there are dots etched into each gear and a marker on the block or a pin they line up with, on the head where the head and block meet on the alternator side of the engine there is a marker in the cover assy and the dots on the cam gear should line up with that. Also verify that the rotor in the distributor is lined up at or near the #1 plug wire on the cap.
If all this lines up correctly then your problem is not timing.
If the rotor does not line up and is off from the #1 plug then the timing belt has slipped and you'll need to replace the belt and retime the engine (and oil pump gear, it is balanced and has to be timed as well).

***
had to edit this, said water pump pulley by mistake, should say oil pump gear which i have corrected ;o)
  • Posted 19 Jan 2019 02:23
  • Modified 19 Jan 2019 02:27 by poster
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
Clark says change that belt every 2500 hrs. Also check your timing gears, if gears are worn change as well.
  • Posted 19 Jan 2019 02:12
  • Reply by tom_p
  • Alberta, Canada
just did compression test...1 cylinder 135 other 3 were below 35 took valve cover off as well as cam shaft. All valves push down and spring back up, not stuck valves Guess its head gasket or rings. hard to believe its rings, as 3 pistons wouldn't go bad at same time. it was running fine then all of a sudden just went haywire. there was bunch of yellow green foam on inside top of valve cover. a lot of that probably comes with not running it long enough after starting.timing belt looks good, but question if it hasnt jumped before because distributor is about out of slot adjustment Thanx tom p
  • Posted 4 Jan 2019 10:44
  • Reply by wise000
  • Illinois, United States
if you have the 2.4 Mitsubishi engine check the timing belt and if that is ok perform a compression test. should be around 165psi.
  • Posted 4 Jan 2019 08:40
  • Reply by tom_p
  • Alberta, Canada

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