Showing items 1 - 15 of 18 results.
I`m assuming this is a 7400?
send model and ser
56 comes up from a bad battery. under load, use a voltmeter with min-max to capture how low the voltage goes under load. Check this first
Can somebody help me decoding errors 53 and 56 please??
Hi
electrotech thanks heaps for the offer! I'm waiting for a replacement VM to come available so I can go from there. Without the service manual its pretty hard to work on these!
Cheers
hi there meowmix I have four of these units in Victoria which I have not had any problems with if you need some info glad to help
The K4 relay is the only one not powered by the key...has constant power, but gets negative from the VM. I'm sure your VM is damaged and internally shorted. Moisture and voltage are a bad combination!
Hi Everyone,
New relay card arrived. Looks a whole lot better than the old one!
Relay K4 is always latched regardless of the key position. As soon as the battery is connected you'll get error FN. As in the VM is always on.
With Relay K4 plugged in and the key turned to 'on' no other relay will latch and the usual 5J 5G error comes up.
Unplug relay K4... Turn the key to on, all other 3 relays latch and the truck starts up fine. Has drive, lift, steer all good. It does have an error 61 comming up.
It did have an error 8L however after a few minutes use it has disappeared and hasn't came back.
Stepping on the deadman the brake on the top of the drive motor clicks and all is good. About 20 seconds of being on the deadman the brake will start clicking on and off non-stop, just click click click...
Jumping the pins on the relay K4 socket and that brake click click click issue is gone. (error 61 is still there). However I can't leave the relay jumped as when they key is turned off, it goes back to the 'FN' error.
I'm assuming something is wrong with the cirucit for the K4 relay coil. As with that relay plugged in, no other relay can start.
Checked the VM for burned pins, all looks o.k.
Everything else seems to be all working! Any ideas?
Many thanks!
1022159/003 was superseded by 1022159/004 and the 004 by 005, either will work. Thanks have a great day.
hehe G'day to all.
Just to set things right I might see if I can replace the fuse/relay card.
The card I have is a 1022159/003. There seems to be a few of the 1022159/004 and 1022159/005 for sale. The 004 appears to look identical. Are they compatible boards?
Been going through the connections cleaning them up, takes such a long time however I've come this far, I'd hate to give up now!
patrick_b and raytech thanks for the help so far!
8L you have to worry about. number one cause of 8L is wire broken at brake unit, where it twists. K2 replay pins burned....thats the key on positive power supply. Last is the pin at the VM. Thats the brake negative output power. It will smoke. JPC20-14 terminals burn. You dont have to replace the harness and VM. Open VM and add jumper wire to JPC20-14 and route to harness. Lots of power in this ckt. K2 relay takes a lot of heat.
PUT new relays if you didnt already. That relay card will cause all kinds of problems. It has to be 100%!!!! As long as you have corroded or burned terminals, nothing will work.Code 61 can be caused by a bad or mis-adjusted prop valve
I have brand new trucks from the factory giving codes from bad connections at the VM. So any moisture or corrosion will make things code out.
G-day!
Code FN - Relays Did Not Open at
Power Of
Code 61 - Mast Switch #1 Not
Crossed
Code 8L - Brake Feedback
Current Out-of-Range
Lets start with code fn which is related to k4 staying closed, B+ comes from the vehicle manager to the keyswitch, then too the relaycard and to the coil of the k4 relay, inspect the keyswitch for leakage when off, terminal 10 is the power input to the relay card from the keyswitch, you either have leakage across the keyswitch or still have issues with the fuse/relay card.
Mast switch #1, either a d-switch or a prox switch on the mast for when the carrage maxes out and the mast starts to stage, inspect it, but also maybe the encoder.
Brake feedback, does the brake release? measure the resistance of the coil, inspect for corrosion on the connectors/wires.
You should make a post in the technical section to see if someone can send you a manual, unfortinitly mine is paper so i cannot, that way you can have a wiring diagram in front of you, sometimes people have pdf manuals they are willing to send via e mail.
Well we have progress!
Amps now power up. Have steering, movement and lift all working!
However we now have error 61. After using for a few minutes we also get error 8L. What are these in relation to?
Relay K4 is staying latched even after the key is turned off. Its latched as soon as there is power to the truck. K4 seems to power up the VM and with the key in the off position it starts up to error FN. With the key on it seems ok, error 61 is there but error 8L is not.
The nightmare continues
Thanks for the help so far!
I didn't get a chance to play with it end of the week. Some one boxed it in with some old pallets and a dead crown truck.
Will be looking at it hopefully tuesday.
The VM had a small lithium battery loose in the housing, it appears to have came out of its holder. Its completely dead, I'm assuming thats just to keep the clock running?
I removed the plastic from the relay sockets and it appears that K3 and K2 were very heavilly oxidised. K3 has no connection to the track arround it. I've since soldered it up hopefully will show a tad more life now.
We have 2 of the older easi 30/40 trucks so I'm swapping the relays from them.
When you first key the truck on K4 latches and then when the key is turned off K4 stays active. Any idea there?
Thanks to all for the great help so far! I'd really hate to send this truck to scrap.
from left to right, the last relay on right is not required. Cold storage ckt only. The second from the left is most important. Remove it and check its female pins very carefully. Remove the others and compare them. Often, they female connections burn and wont carry current. A local electronics store can replace the relay sockets and test the board. Any discoloration in the female pins will cause those codes. Pins at the Vehicle manager can spike and cause problems. Remove all plugs from the VM and dry the sockets with electrical cleaner. Make sure all electrical components are dry...remove them and bring them in to the heat. The operator display may be shorted as well...Start with this >>>and make sure a cat is not hiding in there...:)
Try swaping relays around, possible the tips of K3 are oxidized causing the low B+ voltage. But the problem is that you are not getting B+ at the trac and drive amps when K3 is energized/on. Power goes through Fuse 5 on the relay card, to K3 when it is on/energied and to the trac and lift amps terminal 1 B+, which wakes the amps up. Veryify you have 36volts/battery voltage across fuse 5 on the relay card, with everything connected and the unit powered up, but you should since fuse 5 also powers the key switch.
If their was a short in one of the amps in the B + cicruit it should be blowing fuse 5, they show a thermistor in the wiring diagram on a lot of cicruits on the relay card, but none on the B+ circuit to the trac and lift amps, otherwise i would say that is why you are not getting full power at the amps. Their is still a issue with the relay card, you could try making a small jumper with a 10-15 amp fuse direct from the battery to the B+ terminal at the lift and trac amps, with the unit key'd up the leds, should light up on the amps. Look very closely at the K3 relay/terminals on the relay card/inspect the b + wires between the relay card and the amps.
Once again, thanks heaps for the help.
I could only locate 2 amps in the truck. One below the VM and one on the back corner left hand side behind the lift motor.
They do have LED indicators on them not lit.
Amp behind the lift motor was at 2.0V at B+
Amp below the VM was at 5.1V at B+
After unplugging the amps and keying on a few times still no lights on the amps, now occasionally getting error code FN and G4.
If the last 2 relays are removed then stepping on the deadman will make the middle contactor click on and the steering work.
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