My humble apologies Rick. In posting these messages sometimes I guess the message gets misunderstood.
In the previous post "Mrfixit" said that you may be able to offer some additional advice because of your skills so I was actually asking you for that advice. I, nor my diagnostic skills were offended at all.

The two problems, ( possible cavitation noise) , and the (valve body issues) are actually two seperate problems that I'm seeking advice on.

Again, please accept my sincerest apologies for any confusion. I welcome any, advice that's offered.

i don't recall offering diagnostic advice, you said you had already removed the trans and your original post did not mention the valve body. that came after my post. i was only commenting on the fact that cavitation (noise) usually means pump damage. did not mean to offend or imply that you were lacking in troubleshooting skills

Thanks Mr Fixit. Rick....advice for diagnosing ? As I mentioned, swapping control valves fixed the problem so I'm sure that's where the problem is.

I still service one 7FGCU15 with 27K hours. The other one got traded in. When I run into transmission problems I try to made darn sure I figure out what's wrong before taking it out. If it's not moving, check solenoids for power. I'm pretty sure you can feel the magnetism with a small screwdriver and hear them move the spool when they operate. I'm not too familar with what else can go wrong in the control valve other than the solenoids and spools but pressure checks at the F and R clutches would comfirm that the control valve is working and supplying pressure to operate the clutches. One of the Toyotas did have a trans problem but it was from bad operator abuse. They road the inching petal and let the F clutch slip at full throttle until it overheated and warped. That caused it to drag and the truck would want go forward even while in neutral. rick c seems to be a wealth of info on Toyotas, I'm just a independant repair service that works on a bunch of them. I get along well with my local dealer and they help me with any parts pictures and service info.

Oh yeah....forgot to mention...I have confirmed current all the way to the solenoids.

Thanks to you both for your replies. I'll let you know what I find when I get it torn down.

Mr Fixit, I believe you had a post where you documented that you've got some 7FGU15s in the mid 20K hr.s range ? I have 4 of these which range from 10K to 15K. I may be seeking your advice in the future.

On a related note: I've had 2 of these lifts recently that have had problems where the trans. wouldn't go into one gear or the other. I swapped control valves with some junker units from another location in our company and that solved the problem, I'd like to refurbish the problem control valves to have on hand as a spare. I've heard of problems with the wiring harness that passess through the top of the valve. Both my harnesses appear to be okay based on tests with a multi-meter. I guess the next most likely place to look is the solenoids. Is there a way you can test these to see if they're working properly?

you are describing cavitation and this can be a bad pump or as simple as a bad (clogged) sump screen.you might have a money pit on your hands, the pump is pricey.

Since you have it out, I would disassemble and check everything. If the suction screen is just about plugged you would get noise and lag. Was the oil dirty? Doubt if it is a clutch problem because it acts the same in F and R. Were F and R reacting the same? The torque convertor could be making noise. Maybe the clutches were engaging properly and the convertor is slipping? I would check the oil and filter for any signs of debis or discoloration telling you that there is something wearing. If the torque convertor bearing is going bad it would make noise, the impeller would rub, and contaminate the oil. Checking the condition of the oil and the screen should give you some clues. The pump is easy to check by looking for wear in the gears.