Caterpillar V60B:
F227 will not start

I started a thread a couple weeks ago about a 1974 caterpillar v60b forklift with a f227 flathead propane engine that has low compression. I have done a few things and the compression reads much better now, but still not perfect. With a couple squirts of oil, my cylinders are between 115 and 155 psi

I have checked for spark with a spark tester. All spark plugs fire, & I have even pulled them and watched for a blue spark - all look blue to me. I have them all gapped at around.02, but have tried.025 also. I dumped the old oil and replacd with new oil. I chased the spark plug threads and now they thread in much easier.

I can't find a way to assure that my ignition timing is correct. I can't find a timing pointer. I have pulled the distributor, rotated the engine to what I believe is top dead center on the first cylinder compression stroke and replaced the distributor with the rotor pointing at the number one spark plug wire. I can attempt to start the engine, slightly turn the distributer and it will act like it is slightly firing and speed up, but once I release the starter it never kicks over on its own.

The firing order is on the head, so i know it is correct. I assume the number 1 cylinder is the front, which is the end with the fan, pulleys, etc.

Surely the timing mark is not in the starter hole on the flywheel. The whole forklift is covered in grease and oil, but i have scraped some off looking for a timing pointer.

I have been pulling the plugs and putting seafoam in there to eat away some of the gunk.
  • Posted 25 Sep 2015 04:25
  • Modified 25 Sep 2015 04:28 by poster
  • Discussion started by JamesW
  • Missouri, United States
Showing items 1 - 6 of 6 results.
Ended up throwing it back together. After the ignitor in the distributor going bad and being replaced, and trying this, that and the other thing, I got it running. I had a spark plug tester in line on a plug. I noticed it stopped lighting immediately when i released the trigger on my remote starter. My forklift doesnt have an ignition switch, so i was using a remote starter trigger switch. I had a wire that allows the coil to fire on the wrong side of the remote start.

It is possible that all of the things i have done in conjunction with figuring out the wiring issue culminated in this momentous occassion. Thanks for all of the help.
  • Posted 4 Oct 2015 12:59
  • Reply by JamesW
  • Missouri, United States
what is the going rate for scrap iron in your area?
  • Posted 27 Sep 2015 04:26
  • Reply by edward_t
  • South Carolina, United States
"it's not rocket surgery"
I pulled the head off. Lots of carbon, including large chunks on the head and block; the pistons and valves had some layers also. Piston number 3 has a small hairline crack on one side that goes over about an inch to the edge...like a "corner" of the piston is cracked and slightly bent down.

The cylinder wall has a noticable "streak", but I wouldnt say it is gouged.

I can get a piston for 27 bucks, but that means tearing the engine down, which i would like to avoid. This is a forklift that will run less than an hour per month on average, I'm guessing.

I cleaned the carbon off. I almost wanna just throw it back together and see if it runs. I think found the inspection cover on the bellhousing.
  • Posted 27 Sep 2015 00:20
  • Modified 27 Sep 2015 00:22 by poster
  • Reply by JamesW
  • Missouri, United States
Thanks. I felt in the cylinder for the exhaust valve to close, then the intake valve to open and close. That should be tdc, right? I havent found any plugs to remove to look at the flywheel.

I sprayed carb cleaner in the mixer with the throttle open while cranking it over. All i got was was black smoke out of the exhaust.

I reluctantly drained some coolant and removed the bolts from the head. My next step, i guess, is to make sure it isnt a bad head gasket or valves.
  • Posted 25 Sep 2015 10:52
  • Reply by JamesW
  • Missouri, United States
you may have to use the marks on the flywheel to time this beast. there should be an inspection cover on the bell housing.
  • Posted 25 Sep 2015 10:00
  • Reply by edward_t
  • South Carolina, United States
"it's not rocket surgery"
Remove spark plugs, turn motor by hand until you feel compression starting to build in #1, carefully stick something in the spark plug hole to feel the piston rise as you continue to turn until you find TDC, look at the points and rotate the distributor body clockwise until the points crack open, tighten distributor, look at distributor rotor and find where it's pointing on the cap and set #1 wire, counter clockwise install wires on cap 153624, start engine, fine tune timing, GOOD LUCK
  • Posted 25 Sep 2015 08:05
  • Modified 25 Sep 2015 22:39 by poster
  • Reply by mrfixit
  • New York, United States

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