Thanks Stam and Forkup, I am going to my shop tomorrow and check this out.

lift..cut out switch........typical walkie..

this truck is equipped with a lift limit switch it is a proximity switch mounted close to the lift motor pointing at the links on top of the lift cylinders, if it goes bad and gets stuck closed your not going to lift. there is an indicator light on it to show you when it is closed (lift disabled) unfortunatley the light being off will not guarantee the switch is good.

someone might be able to correct me if i am wrong but i am sure if you un-plug the switch the truck will still let you lift, so unplug it. if you now lift replace the lift limit switch.

the hpd code you are seeing is unrelated to the no lift problem, you may have turned the key on with the handle down.

Thank you Ray Tech and all of you. I will try this all out. I am looking for a Schematics for the Raymond 830-F60L, so if you know where one is at please let me know. Thank you all again for your help.

Aye - Agreed, adjust and or replace throttle potentiometer, then recheck operation.

well there ya go
the ole HPD error
i guess he should check that tiller control eh?

raytech is da man of the hour ;o)

HPD is standard forklift error code for
"high pedal disable"
In other words, on old tech lift trucks, id you turned on the truck with your foot on the accel PEDAL, the truck would code out to prevent you from engaging fwd or rev with your foot stuck to the floor.
So, you have a twist grip instead of the pedal. It's stuck on, Pot is showing Vehicle manager that throttle is "high". so the truck codes out because you have stuck throttle or "High pedal" and the VM "disabled" the truck.
For Shxxts and giggles, turn the grip slightly one way and restart, then try opposite direction if first one didnt work. It may start up and go. Fix the throttle issue first, and all troubles may dissapear..

Since you know the motor runs you should be looking at control signal to the solenoid.
you have probably lost neg or pos circuit because of wire harness break.
hook your vom leads to the solenoid control wires and bypass the lift button and start wiggling wires, concentrate your attention to parts of harness that move or bend frequently.

I am back. I thought I narrowed it down to the solenoid so I bought a new one and installed it just now. Same thing, not lifting. I know the motor works, new solenoid and I believe the fuses checked out. I do see three letters on the control arm after the hours show up and it goes back and forth between hours and the three letters of Hpd? Any other ideas is very welcomed.

Lets not "cross" anything on a circuit, you can burn yourself, melt your screwdriver, burn up circuitry on the lift. Instead, plug the lift in, measure acrost the coil on the solenoid while depressing the lift switch. You should see voltage acrost the coil. If you do not see voltage acrost the coil while depressing the lift switch. Remove your handle and your grab bar and check your lift switches. Depressing the lift switch will allow voltage to flow to the solenoid. When you have your meter on the switch if you see voltage thats okay, but when you depress the switch you should see 0 volts. If you switch your meter to Ohms, when you depress the switch you should see less than 1 ohm. Make sure the battery is disconnected from the unit while Ohming out components. Your switch may be okay and the plastic cover that goes over the switch may be worn out as it has a cross like pattern on the back side of the cover that actually makes contact and presses the switch when you push on it.

crossing the 2 small poles?
gee you're lucky that the solenoid is probably switched by an outside negative from the lift switch and it didn't complete the circuit...
you cross those 2 poles with live completed circuits and you would of melted your jumper man... sheesh

the 2 small poles are positive and negative to the coil inside the solenoid....
those 2 large poles are just power circuit being completed by a set of movable contacts that are pulled in when power is supplied to the coil inside the solenoid by the 2 small terminals.

if you can figure out which is positive and which is negative and which one is the 'switched' part of the circuit you can bypass the handle switch and supply an isolated ground or positive for the switched side and actually see if the solenoid will pull in.
If you can make it work this way then you have isolated the solenoid out of the equasion and then can look for a bad switch or wiring or fuse or something.

I crossed the two large poles and lift went up, so I guess the motor and pump is good. now I was not sure on what to do next but I tried to cross the small poles on the solenoid because I assumed those two poles go to the switch? Not sure. And nothing happened. So, would you say the solenoid may be bad or what is next? Thanks.

Thank you Mercanyin, I like all of this advice and I keep all of the notes for my future lifts. I should be able to check all of this out Monday. I will update when I do.

You may also want to check your fuses. Set your multimeter for Ohms, which symbol looks like the horseshoe. Checking a fuse you should get less than 2 ohms, anything over that or if you get Open/OL, replace the fuse. Also check your hydraulic fluid level. We have a decent size fleet of 112 electric ride on pallet jacks here and seems the only thing that ever goes bad on them are the solenoids, handle accelerator/throttle potentiometer and the horn. I have trucks here that are 12 years old and have yet to need to replace the lift brushes but you should still check them because the brushes could be broken if the motor got to hot/overheated. You should also check the lift cut-out switch. While raising the forks there is a switch that cuts the motor out when you reach a certain height. If that switch is broken/shorted it will prevent the truck from lifting.

Thank you swoop223, I will try your advice and let you know what happens.