Picked up an old YALE 2000lb forklift a few weeks ago. Not sure about the vintage, probably 70's. ID plate says it's GC522024UF and I've been told that it has Continental engine. That's about all I know about it.
Put a couple pictures of it here:
img.photobucket[had to add this to get link to post].com/albums/v24/djenyc/forklift/IMG_0729.jpg
img.photobucket[had to add this to get link to post].com/albums/v24/djenyc/forklift/IMG_0705.jpg
It runs, and I've been using it as is, but it needs to get brakes fixed (brake-line coming from master cylinder is snapped at the master cylinder) and I guess some general maintenance (oil/oil filter/air filter/coolant etc).
I'm pretty handy with cars but never worked on a forklift before. Not sure where to start - like how to lift it? Do I need special jack-stands or would regular car jack-stands work? Does the counterweight have to come out for general maintenance, etc?
Popped my head under side covers and found TWO oil dipsticks (one on each side)????, but no coolant expansion tank so not sure how to check coolant level - just fill up radiator till it's full???
Finally what to do about the manual? Any good aftermaket ones or am I stuck trying to find the original factory repair manual?
Any advice appreciated.
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Found that there is another subforum here:
[ "Mechanical Troubleshooting" - "Yale" ] that would be more appropriate for my post, if moderators could move this thread there - would appreciate it. Thanks
Showing items 1 - 20 of 21 results.
Duodeluxe,
Thank you for the info!
Joe
I think it is a Continental F124 engine. I would guess that it weight around 5500#.
Hi,
I just purchased a GP52-2024 and am looking for a service manual. Does anyone have one (or a copy) for sale? I'm also trying to ID the model of Continental engine but haven't found a nameplate. Does anyone know if it's an N56? Also, does anyone know the weight of this beast? I can't find much info on the web, being as old as it is. I did manage to find an online copy of the overhaul manual for Continental engines.
Thanks,
Joe
Admin, thanks. I was not really being critical of the forum policies.
Just a light hearted, good natured jab in fun.
Really a great forum. I'm glad I found it.
Took distributor cap off - found just a bit of moisture, amazing how this little bit of water can ruin the day. Dried out distributor/cap with heat gun - put back on - fired right up. All is good :)
The distributor cap probably got some moisture in it when you pressure washed the truck. Remove the cap and spray some WD40 in and try starting it again.
I have a parts and service manual for a GP52. Everything in the manual should be the same except for the tires
If the truck is equipped with a fluid coupling that you only need to depress the clutch to change gears. If you just depress the brake pedal when stopping the truck will not stall. I also think that this truck has a 2 speed transmission. If you pull up on the shifting lever then shift that should be your second gear.
I would expect that most common items are still available for this truck.
We are a bit strange, us Aussies......... I agree it does make it a bit hard and frustrating at times but we automatically remove email addresses and website URLs to discourage people from spamming or advertising and spoiling the technical content of the discussions.
But most importantly we do it to protect you from receiving unwanted spam. We stop web spiders and other email collecting systems from gathering your email address and spamming you.
There are several ways to show your email an perhaps the easiest is to write it this way ***** at **** dot com then it will not be removed.
This forum really does not like links or URLs. Must be an Aussie thing!
One way to work around that is to spell out the words "at" and "dot" instead of just using the standard punctuation symbols for those "sounds".
... forgot to add - after I get it started, it generally runs Ok.
Woohoo, IT WORKED!!!! Got the clutch working again - thanks to all the good guys in this group for advice!
bbforks and L1ftmech - you were right about the clutch disk getting stuck. Last night I first tried doing laps around the parking lot in the forklift while repeatedly pumping the clutch... eventually my leg got tired, so went to the second approach -
Tied the back of the forklift to the back of a Ford full size van, blocked van tires and gave it a good yank with the forklift while pumping the clutch - ALL IT TOOK :) The clutch is free again YAEY :)
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Now tackling another thing brought up by washing - HARD STARTING. I was hoping it would go away after running it for a bit, but no luck.
First day had to crank it for about 30 seconds before it started. Yesterday gave up on cranking, had to use starting fluid each time... any clues on what it could be? Since it's starting with starting fluid, I guess it's getting spark. BTW before I washed it, it was starting easily.
It's propane and in addition to carburetor, there is some other odd stuff that's I'm not familiar with, some kind of regulator perhaps? Could there be something sensitive to water/grease/kerosene/pressure washing?
Posted a pic of distributor/carburetor/propane regulator setup here:
img[dot]photobucket[dot]com/albums/v24/djenyc/forklift/l1.jpg
Heh, this forklift really doesn't like getting washed...had a few cars like that.
GarageWarrior;
Two suggestions as I want you to have a Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year (No Happy Holidays there 'cause I get confused easily , thanks to the government - there are 11 Federal and 17 different state holidays. So when someone says Happy Holidays to me - I reply which one are you talking about? Seems fair too me. Go to Europe and thy seem to be on Holidays all the time (they mean vacation but 30 days in a row is much - I would not have stayed married for one year if we had that type of national Holiday)
Here are you two suggestions:
1. Get a copy of an operators manual - most folks thing the lift truck works on the teeter tater principal but most accidents happen when the lifts turn over side ways. There is a things called the stability triangle - because most lifts have a 3 point of contact (the rear axles articulate about 1 -2". You may recall the reason all those 3 wheelers off road motor bikes were quickly changed to a 4 wheel design - Philadelphia lawyers got involved.
2. Make certain your life insurance policy is paid up current & doesn't have an escape clause for driving an unsafe vehicle (LOL)
The data plate breaks down as follows: G=Gas, C= cushion (solid tire), 52= model (manufactured late 50's- early 60's), 20=2,000lb capacity 24= 24 inch load center, UF=fluid coupling- if memory serves me right
L1ftmech is correct- washing an old unit with cleaner & letting it sit is a sure fire way to get the clutch disc to stick. getting the clutch hot & hoping for the best is the only way I know of to get it to stick. In extreme circumstances I've had to "break" the clutch loose by chaining the unit to an immovable object & letting the unit pull against the chain with the clutch depressed.
This may not work in your situation because I believe your truck came with both a clutch & a fluid coupler. There may be a sticker stating "equiped with fluid power" or you may have to pull the floorboard & check the bellhousing thickness.
The clutch disc has probably become "stuck", either to the flywheel or to the pressure plate because you drenched the machine with your washing.
The clutch pressure plate is probably working/moving normally but the clutch driven disc is stuck to one of components mentioned because rust forms pretty quickly on these type of surfaces.
Start the engine in neutral and let it run for a bit while you operate the clutch pedal repeatedly and if it is just a sticking disc it should break free at some point.
RE: MrFixIt ->> How about G52C ?
The plate says:
Model GC52-2024-UF
U.L. Type G
Not sure what the letters mean. Numbers - may be 52 is the year of production, 20 is for 2000lb lift capacity, and 24 is load center???
Good point about the brakes and safety. I should have mentioned that this lift isn't used for business, just had to put some stuff in to storage unit and the lift came handy getting stuff off the floor and on to a pallet rack. Once I get the brakes fixed I'd also like to use it for moving trailers and disabled vehicles.
In any case, there is now a bigger problem. This weekend I degreased/power-washed the forklift and than liberally sprayed it with a mix of kerosene and greasy corrosion prevention compound to soften up remaining dirt and hardened grease and also to keep it from rusting. Oddly, now the clutch pedal no longer works (the clutch is always fully engaged, I can still depress the clutch pedal but it does not do anything). Not sure if it was the jacking/lifting, the power washing or the grease/kerosene spray that did it, but either way this does not make sense. I can't see transmission/clutch pedal without unbolting pannels, and still looking for lift manual (found engine manual!). Is the clutch on this lift hydraulic or mechanical linkage? Would appreciate advice/ideas on what could be wrong before I tackle it.
Driving any vehicle without brakes is like having a an Evil Knievel type death wish. The lift weighs more than most vehicles on the road but only has two wheel brakes brake. Lifts don't go as fast a cars but they can build up a lot of momentum to stop and shorten the life of an already well worn vehicle. What is the back-up plan to stop the unit if an over stressed axle 1/2 shaft, differential or trans shaft/gears comes unglued? Throwing out a sea anchor won't work. Best to tag it out of service until fully functional and operational. Or buy a good used one from a reputable dealer. - you'll be better off (economically & safety wise) in the long run.
With scrap prices today you can get enough money for a partial payment.
yep most of those parts you can take to your local napa store and match them up
I got a story about bad brakes. I used to service a 10K lift that one of the major air freight companys used to off load the next day air at the airport. I got a call to come check the brakes. When I got there, it was within a couple minutes of the plane's arrival. The forklift operator said to wait until he's done using it to work on it. We were about as close to the runway as you can get, and sure enough, right to the minute, the jet comes ripping down the runway, turns and come up to us. Everything is rush rush with this operation. The forklift operater goes to unload the big cargo container and bumps into the Boeing 727. That pilot came down those steps with a very serious look on his face, looked his plane over very carefully, got back in, was was out of there in a few minutes, off to the next stop.
Thanks for the replies guys!
Yes, it's dicey driving without the brakes, not so much on leveled floor but outside there is some slope and using clutch to brake gets old quickly. I power-washed it today and will attempt to do some service/repairs tomorrow.
I wouldn't put much money into the lift- any specific parts (brake shoes, hydraulics, etc) are all going to be next to impossible to get. Good luck finding a manual- like mrfixit said- keep ebay on speed dial. Tune up parts are getting scarce too- I got the last distrbutor cap in the country for that unit from NAPA- at least that's what they told me.
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