I think I just got this figured out, I had almost no voltage on the signal wire and positive wire going to the crank sensor when it was taken out of the engine. I plugged in another sensor I had that I bought and instantly got battery voltage to it. Waiting for two new Hitachi sensors to come in the morning and I'm certain I will have it started in the afternoon.

All the wiring had no breaks to it on any of the relay boxes and the sensors on the engine.

Thanks for all the help and hopefully I will have an update tomorrow!

It acts like it wants to hit on the first spray of starting fluid but does not. I'm attaching pictures of the crank and cam sensors I just took off. I just want to confirm the connectors are plugged in correctly.

I am getting several lights on the dash when the key is turned in the on position. Neutral Green lights up, a circle with in exclamation mark in the middle with parentheses right above the neutral green lights up, an exclamation mark lights up, the battery indicator lights up, and the coolant/temperature indicator lights up.

Not sure how I can upload pictures on here, it doesn't show me where I can. I'll try to figure that out so I can add pictures.

The crank sensor that points downward I have the green connector plugged in and the cam sensor that points inward I have the black connector plugged into it.

Here's the icloud link that I have for the 4 pictures of the cam sensors, dash pictured (clear plastic was faded and I had to scrape away the yellowing), and the connectors. The black sensor (downwards) I had in the crank sensor spot and the grey sensor (inwards) I had in the cam sensor spot.

https://www.icloud.com/photos/#/icloudlinks/0989iADlzhpxVvTGv71DBnM8Q

Your crank and cam sensor can both be changed out at the LH rear tire under neath. The crank sensor points downward toward the crankshaft pully. The cam sensor points inward toward the engine block and is above the crank sensor. You cannot install one for the other. They both look very similar. I'm concerned that there is no MIL light on when you turn the key on. Do any of the lights on the dash light up with the key on?? Again, make sure the wiring is good on the relay box under the LH step panel that you have to remove. Have you tried the shot of ether? If it pops off then you eliminate any wiring issues. These trucks also have a lot of issues with broken wires at nearly all the plugs leading to the sensors. Check them thoroughly because they are very thin wires. The main fuel injector housing which bolts to the intake manifold housing could also be plugged up with tar from the propane. I also had a unit with a broken intake manifold so check that too. Try the ether trick and see what happens because that can rule out a lot of different things. Another thing to check is the very fine mesh fuel screen that is located on the injector housing under the sensor that is installed straight down into the housing on the LH side as your looking at it. These can also plug up with tar and not allow fuel to pass through. Keep me posted.

There's no MIL light on the dash. I don't have a forklift specific scanner but I do have an Autel Maxisys but had no codes pop up at all when scanned. Not sure if it would even pull codes, however it does have an OBD2 connector.

All relays I did not check since I don't have an electrical diagram for it that I found just yet. Fuses are all good.

The way this forklift just "died" when it was used the day prior just pointed in my mind to some sort of electrical problem.

I checked spark on all 4 ignition coils and I have spark on all of them. I replaced the ignition coils, MAF sensor, crankshaft position sensor, regulator/vaporizer, LPG solenoid (one that has the fuel filter attached to it), and the injector I changed out is this part Forklift Injector-LPG Nikki A6600-FU571.

When you do try to crank and start the forklift in the past it did start and die. Prior to when I changed out only the LPG injector I changed out the crankshaft position sensor and I got it started. After it started I kept it on for 10 seconds before killing the ignition to put everything back together. Unfortunately it did not start back up again... I changed out that crank sensor 2/3x but no luck still. I read they have metal capped ones and plastic capped ones and not sure which of the two would work better and last longer. I was able to cross reference it to the exact same nissan crankshaft position sensor from a car and got the OEM one from the dealer.

I have not just yet changed out camshaft position sensors. The one I changed out which I'm fairly certain is the CPS where I removed the fan, belts, and it was on the front timing cover area.

I just checked the fuel line disconnected and it does release a blast of raw fuel for 2-3 seconds. It does not keep shooting fuel afterwards.

If you remove your fuel hose from the injector holder housing and turn the key on you should have a blast of high pressure raw fuel come out for about 2 seconds then it stops. VERY IMPORTANT!!!! DO NOT POINT THE HOSE ANYWHERE IN YOUR DIRECTION!!! ALWAYS POINT AWAY FROM YOURSELF!! Your L01 unit is a fairly older machine therefore I would check the wiring on the relay box under the LH step panel for corroded wiring under the box itself. A common issue. Next I would check for spark by pulling a coil and plug. If there isn't any fire I would check the ign. capacitor on the wiring harness inside the tunnel located behind the same relay box mentioned earlier, Between the frame and the engine. It should be chocolate brown in color, newer ones were yellow. Wiring on this plug also corrodes, You could also have MAF, crankshaft, or cam sensor issues. No codes on dash???? Or the MIL light on?? You said you changed out the valve assy. I assume that was the inj holder housing. They plug up with tar from the fuel. Check all fuses and relays. Another issue the L-series had was internal connections inside the bottom of the fuse box. Usually when this happens the fuel lockoff solenoid will not click open. Hope something here might help you. I'll keep an eye on your posts. Good Luck!! One more question, will it try to fire with a shot of ether???

On the top of the converter you will see approx 19 mm. Bolt head with a Phillips head slot in it make sure you bleed the gas out of the line before you undo it. Also there is a o ring on it don't loose it as it will leak gas when you put it back try to get a gauge that goes to apply 40 to 50 psi just in case the converter is bad the pressure could spike see if you can find an lpg gauge you might have to adapt a fitting to go into the thread of the converter if you can't than l have used a hyd gauge but it won't last long. Get back to me.

Hey Scott, is there a specific gauge to use to check LPG pressure? I'll get it checked out today if one of the auto stores have it in stock. If it's higher pressure than that I'm assuming it's that pressure converter/vaporizer?

First did you check the converter pressure with a gauge in the top of the Nikki converter you should have approx 4to 5 psi pressure when cranking start there l know you said it is new but check it and get back to me with your finding.