That probably originally has a J&S fuel system with the electric solenoid valve and the regulator mounted in the thermostat housing. Someone updated it with the Impco stuff. Doesn't that mixer on E Bay have the mounting flange turned 90 degress from what you want? Your machine calls for a CA100-112 or CA100-180 depending on how tall it is.

Probably good advice bbforks I am not exactly trying to save money, but honestly I have no idea where else to look for parts. The few places I have tried seem like they want nothing to do with machine this old. Also not sure if you had the time to look up the proper part number. I checked my mixers physical measurements with a vernier and they all jive up with the flea bay mixer, but really have no idea which part is right.

Pat- even if it's the right mixer, I still wouldn't buy it off ebay. I buy things off ebay personally, but not for forklifts. I have customers who try to save money by buying forklifts & parts off ebay & I have yet to see anything that was as it was advertised. You may hit a home run, but with my experience that's highly unlikely.

Thanks bb forks. The foil sticker on my mixer no longer has any of the data on it.

I was looking at this one ebay which appears to be physically be the same as mine.

ebay.com/itm/IMPCO-LPG-PROPANE-CARBURETOR-MIXER-CA100-CA100-272-/271202651937?_trksid=p2047675.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D333002%26algo%3DRIC.CAT%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D8%26meid%3D7561334424968947881%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D1076%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D170927474644%26

Jplayer- no disrespect, but I believe this lift is fitted with an impco model J system. This regulator has no diaphram between LPG & coolant, the coolant runs through a cast channel in the regulator housing. It also won't pass LPG until a vacuum is sensed in the supply hose.

I believe the regulator your thinking of is the old Algas (which Impco now owns) regulator which worked & is assembled in the fashion you describe.

As far as the mixer, you'll need one specific to your lift- bore size & linkage assy's are model specific. I'll check on the part # for your application

Thanks for that info Jplayer! I checked the shut off solenoid previously when it was completely off of the system by blowing through it with my mouth when energized and it opened fine and closed fine when I de-energized it. I was pretty sure that vaporizer should flow lp no with out a vacuum source.

I was hoping it was something with the vaporizer allowing coolant through. I ordered a new "cobra" style vaporizer for it. Also the mixer is toast. The diaphragm looked to be in good condition but 2 of the 4 bolts on the bottom cover broke when disassembling it, plus the butterfly is quite rusty, and there was a lot of crap built up in it.

Its a ca-100 mixer. I am not sure if there are any different models or variations but I need to find one now. I found a few on ebay from 65-200.

if you have coolant getting into the supply hose and mixer then the vaporizer is bad, the diaphragm on the coolant side is leaking probably from deterioration.
Also you should remove the solenoid valve and energize it while disconnected to see if its even opening up to allow LP liquid through into the vaporizer. (if dirty or worn out they tend to not work well and will stick)
NOTE: this will be under very high pressure so be extremely careful when performing this test and keep it out of line of anything like your face or hands, just have a firm grasp on it when you open it up to check for flow and only do it for a second. YOU WILL know immediately if its working or not ;o)

Once you confirm the shutoff valve is working and you know you have pressure on the inlet side of the vaporizer you should get a regulated pressure on the outlet side consistently. On these old systems there was no filter lock-off or vacum lines running to the side of the vaporizer to open or close the flow, its either on or off depending on the shutoff solenoid valve. What controls the flow into the engine is the mixer diaphragm operating under the regulated pressure out of the vaporizer.

As for the mixer , if it is contaminated badly as you say... clean it out, check the diaphragm and make sure its not torn or deteriorated and leaking, if it is damaged it will not pull open when the engine is cranked and the engine will not run. Plus in the middle of the mixer diaphragm is a chamber with a small bullet looking thing, make sure this is clean, this is actually a valve that seals off under spring pressure only opening under the vacum from the engine and if it has any leakage from being dirty the engine will run badly or not run at all.

On the compression issue in the cylinders, this may improve as oil gets into the rings because if it has sat for a long period the rings tend to stick and you will loose compression at first. Once they loosen up this should improve, but at the compression levels you say you have the engine should run.

So I haven't had time to work on this but started tinkering again this morning. Pulled the plugs sprayed starting fluid down the cyls, pulled the fuel mixer sprayed some fluid in there and the machine wanted to run. So thats good news.

My coolant system pressure tester doesn't have the right adapter for the lift so I havent been able to test for coolant leaking in to the mixer.

When I pulled the mixer there was more coolant and just gunk inside. The motor was pulling a good vacuum through the mixer so I am baffled as to why its not pulling lp into it.

I am gonna do a general tune up on it, and clean and rebuild the mixer and see what happens.

From Admin....Thanks Patdoody, we have been working on getting photos into the forums for a while. It is a good idea and we will do it soon. We had to remove yours (and replace with a link to an interim holding page) because there were serious sizing problems which would cause long term problems............watch this space, we are onto it.
Cheers

Nothing you have done would have caused this condition. I have heard of heads cracking when overheated- never saw one personally.

Yeah I am hoping that is not the case. It did sit for a while, but was in a garage. It does have antifreeze in it so I would hope it didnt crack but who knows. I am going to try pressurizing the cooling system like suggested.

There isn't any way the valve being stuck open could have let coolant somehow back into the intake manifold when I was cranking the motor over? Ive never worked on a flathead motor so not 100% sure whats going on under the head.

Sounds like a cracked head or engine block if it sat around outside for a long period of time in cold weather then this could be your case.....

Honestly- doesn't sound good. In all the years I've been doing this- when head gaskets go on those flatheads, it's always been just a compression issue between 2 adjacent cyl's- no big deal.

I would pressurize the cooling system & check if there's any leaks- sounds like you'll probably see coolant go into a cylinder or out the mixer. If that turns out to be the case, cyl head removal will be your next endeavor.

yeah the hose that runs from the air filter to the air inlet of the mixer. Green antifreeze came out, a good amount of it.

When you say intake tube- do you mean the hose that runs between the mixer & the air filter?

The fluid in the tube- was it condensation or anti-freeze?