I have just purchased a Toyota Mod. 40-5FG25 forklift that has propane fuel. I is a 4Y engine.
This was an "AS IS" out of a lease/rental fleet. It is 100% complete, less the tank and mount.
I did compression cold tests before purchased and it was 190# on all cylinders. Plugs were clean.
I brought it home and put a full tank of propane on a mount I made. Properly positioned with the locater holes down. Removed the tank hose and blow it out before installing a new tank connector.
Cranked over fine and tries to start but runs like it is out of fuel. Will keep firing and miss firing as long as I keep the starter engaged. Once I got it to run "rough" without the starter engaged and about half throttle but it was rough and would pop back into the intake occasionally. Evenually died but did run long enough for the coolant to warm up and I noted the frost on the propane "stuff" melted. Haven't been able to get it to run continiously since.
The only adjustment I have been changing is the large head screw on the side, towards the top of the throttle body. This is a IMPCO model 100 system and everything seems to be hooked up and the vacuum lines, etc. check out ok.
I just don't know anything about propane systems or trouble shooting.
It could be ignition but it has one of those distributors with the coil pack built in. I plan to check it out next to see what type of components it uses.
If anyone could provide me with some direction on trouble shooting and adjusting this propane system, or even a link to a reference manual on this. I would appreciate it.
Thanks
STEVE
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I have the same problem. I rebuilt the vaporizer, now it will only try to turn over when I cut fuel off. Then when I open lpg tank, it will not start. Too much fuel. Any ideas?
Yup that trouble in past but now propane fuel forklifts are very economical.
This is a common Toyota 4Y issue; unit cranks and starts but as soon as you release the key the engine stops. At the distributor there are two wires in the connector. One is 12VDC with the key on, the other is "tach sense". When this problem occurs the tach sense wire is usually broken in the harness or in the connector.
Probably also worth overhauling the vap for the cost and time. LP isn't as clean as most think and I've seen these units so clogged it's a miracle they ran at all!
I could use any help you can offer. Contact me off forum is ok.
Steve
I've had one kinda like this before, if it won't run and I'm not sure if fuel or ignition,
I spray a little brake clean in intake to see if will run, if it does not ignition problem(ether hangs around too long).
Wouldn't start but would run on brake clean, fuel supply was good, ended up taking off mixer(2 bolts) and found the little vacuum ports in mixer plugged with carbon, cleaned them out with mechanics wire, fired right up,
Just a thought...
Do you have a email address I can send you some more information once I get home tonight. Either put it in your profile or if you post it in the forum you will have to put it in a format without the.com instead of using. spell it out with dot com. The forum strips out websites and emails in the normal format to keep out spam.
The forklift SN 405FG25-10368.
True some of the parts or the whole dist. are available from Toyota but at a very high price. Just the ignition module was several hundred and about the same for the coil. The damaged connector lead, with the condenser couldn't be located.
As I mentioned, the after market distributors that cross reference to this model and PN are on ebay and they all have the condenser mounted on the side and in series in the brown wire from the connector to the internal elect components.
The last forklift dealer/lease agent shop, was the former owner of this machine and confirms that is it built for the US market and not Gray Market. They have hundreds in their lease fleet. He has offered to research the individual parts for me but reports it would be cheaper to buy the after market distributor than the major components from Toyota. That is what they would do (labor considered) and I tend to agree (and I "work for cheap"!).
Steve
OleSteve,
Some one is feeding you a line that they can not find the parts. I know for a fact that the distributor for this truck is electronic and all parts are still available from the OEM as well as in the aftermarket. Used to work for a Toyota dealer. If the distributor that you pulled out has a condenser then you have something really odd or the truck maybe gray market. Do you have a serial number of the truck?
This is Toyota PN19030-96150 distributor.
The capacitor/condensor is in series in the brown lead of the connector and mounted on the side of the dist. body. It is marked 0.47uf (micro farad). This brown lead is broken off right in the capacitor.
The pictures of the replacement distributor on ebay that I just ordered (PN 78151-71) has this capacitor on the side as well.
"The deed is done". I have ordered the replacement since none of the parts catalogs at several of the parts dealers could come up with the solid state module on the inside or the reluctor that replaces the point, let alone the connector with that condensor/capacitor lead seperatly. About the only parts seem to be replacement caps and rotors.
Steve
Well, this should ought to probably make you even more not happy. I don't believe I have met what you refer to as a capacitor. Are you sure what you see is not simply the 2 wire connector?
If the part you are looking at is the connector......
Pigtail kit for Distributor.....90957-U9011-71
I have come back to the distributor again when I found I had no spark at all. It is OEM and the wire are so brittle that one of the wires coming out the the capacitor on the side was broken off. This a solid state distributor/coil assembly.
There is bare/cracked areas so close to components/connectors I there can't be taped up.
I tried to find replacement parts, using the Toyota PN and that has lead me to the same conclusion, to purchase a after market replacement distributor on eBay for $250 (Toyota was over $800). While working with a local major forklift dealer/lease agent, I was able to convert the numbers on my OEM distributor over to a number that match several that were listed on ebay. In the ebay listing for this one for $250 in actually lists my forklift model number.
Not to happy about having to replace the whole thing, because of wire deterioration on molded components but at least I will save the labor of dis-assemby/re-assembly, etc..
That's the way it seems to be with solid state distributor.
I do suspect that the distributor problem goes beyond just the cracked/broken wire insulation, as the weak spark I did observer for a while might indicate a failing component. Now no spark!
Might be a week or so before I will get to the bottom of this since I have other projects I need to deal with now and still have another working fork lift on site.
Thank
Steve
I had the same symptoms once and it ended up being a bad distributor. I think you may be able to r/b it but it is cheaper to replace it in the long run.
If you're comfortable with your ignition timing do the following:
Turn off & disconnect the LPG tank
Bleed propane from the fuel system- (push in little nipple inside brass fuel coupler which connects to LPG tank- make sure the coupler is pointed AWAY from you as the LPG is very cold & will frostbite any part of your skin or eyes it comes in concact with)
Remove air cleaner tubing to mixer, depress throttle 1/2 way down & spray starting fluid into mixer. Crank engine over while spraying either (have fire extinguisher handy in case of backfire). Engine should run on either for a few seconds at least.
If your ignition timing is correct, engine should fire. If engine won't start or even try to start, then your ignition system needs to be gone over.
I think I read in one of your threads that the mixer is a CA100.
There is a diaphragm in the top of the CA100 that lifts a fuel valve.
It is possible that the backfire concussion has ripped the diaphragm making it inactive.
CA100s also have 4 small screws that attach the fuel valve to the diaphragm backer plate. I have seen these screws loosen and fall out. When that happens, the effect of intake vacuum will be reduced and if there was little vacuum to begin with, the diaphragm may not work at all.
If a screw has come out, it will be loose between the diaphragm and the top cover plate. So be sure to hold the cover plate over a table or other surface if you pry the diaphragm loose from the cover.
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