Good Morning! I have read and re-read all the post on this topic and a couple things that no-one has asked or thought about...what is the length of the battery cables and what is the condition of the battery. If the battery does not have enough electrolyte/water, then it cannot provide the required counter EMF for the regen to slow the truck. The battery is being used as a "load" or resistor to oppose the EMF when "plugging" or changing direction. Similarly, the same type effect happens if the battery cables are too long, it changes the counter EMF due to the length and the time it takes for the system to sense the opposing force. This may not be what is happening, but worth mentioning. Just my two cents...hope it works out ok for you! Have a great day!

not what I expected... I'm leaning towards something being hooked up wrong. I wish I could help further but go over all your connections again, something on the power side.
Firmware/vfc could be culprit but that is speculation.

A1 - A2.5 ohms
S1 - S2 1.2 ohms.

those are my readings.

What is the field resistance? As I said above it needs to have 1 - 1.5 ohms

Just replaced Power Card, Regen and Rec2. Still getting the magical code 2F. Is there any chance my drive motor can be causing this issue even though it tests as a good motor?

I am gonna get another power card and regen. If that does not solve the issue i will concede and have to hire someone else to come fix it. I just can not see what i have done wrong......hopefully it was an issue with a part and nothing that I may have screwed up. Thanks for all of your input so far. you guys have been a big help.

I have never done that and never had an issue. Changed at least 25 of those things in my career.

When you install the regen DO NOT hook up the 2 power cables to the REGEn until after you have let the truck go through self test once. Then hook up the 2 power cables to the REGEN. This allows the REGEN assembly to "fill" the capacitor. I was told this many years ago and have never had an issue when replacing a REGEN assembly.

yes the power card if malfunctioning can cause the regen to fry.
sounds like the "kit" is in order. Pwr card and regen.

Will a bad power card destroy the regen? I have replaced TM1, TM2, Q1, Q2, Power Card, System Card, VFC, Firmware, Control handle, Rec1, Rec2. All of these are new parts but I am wondering if there is a chance that I somehow got a new part that is a lemon. I have no new parts in house and no other trucks like it in the shop to swap out pieces to find the culprit. I can only imagine that something that I purchased has to be bad......has this ever happened to anyone else? The wiring is all correct according to the prints in the book. I have spend way to many hours on this machine.

Tested everything using a Fluke meter.... followed examples given in the book. Replaced the regen and still have a 2F. I am ready to give up.

May I ask how are you checking the Q1, recs? With diode tester yes?
Are there any shorts to frame, 10K ohm resister is ok at static strap?

Yes. I tested Q1, TM1 and TM2 and they are fine. Not sure if I can get an accurate test on Q2 since it is coated.

at least now it is telling you the regen is bad.
wiring/power cables in the right spots?

replaced everything and now I am getting a code 2F. this truck is going to drive me insane.

No problem. I have worked on these since they were released in 94 I'm always here.

That is what i figured but it never hurts to ask. Thanks for the info it has been much appreciated.

No. It operates in congunction with the power card.

It accelerates normally. I know this is a dumb question but is there any way to bypass the regen?

How does the truck accelerate? If sluggish check drive motor field resistance. Should be around 1 - 1.2 ohms.
If acceleration is ok your regen. assy will need replacing.
It is located under the drive heatsink above the caster unit it is coated with black insulation material.