I just bought a 68 clark CF 50 B-3 can't figure out where to check the trans oil and what type trans oil?

The emery cloth and retorque on the gland nut did the trick. No more leaks. horray! regards Larry S

i really hope he had it fixed right
i work for a dealership and we wont mess around like that on somethin that big because of the liabilities

we wont even sell suicide knobs if the machines didnt come equipped like that from the factory because of the same reasons
i wont even install them if the customer provides the part because i can be held accountable for turning the screw

Absolutely!!! Dont mess around with a machine that big! Lives are at stake. Dont even think about temporary repairs with that machine, I dont care how seldom you use it. Protect your operators' lives.

@ 50k lbs if your liftin that much weight dont even mess around just get it fixed properly
if u jury rig it and your "temporary" repair kills somebody you could be held accountable in court
take it out and have it rechromed or order the new rod

Hi Mike, thank you for your input. We only use this lift a couple times a week. and then only for an hour or so. How long might the silver solder trick hold up. the scoring is not that bad, now that we used a little emery on it. kind regards Larry s

For a temp repair on a gouged rod, I have had luck using silver soldier.
It eventually wears out due to the fact that it is so much softer than chrome.

Liftdoctor is dead right about sending it for repair. There could be many other problems that would take out the new seal.
I also do the file and emery fix. Sometimes it'll be the only way to get the gland nut past the damage.

Thanks Liftdoctor, Will get my hands on some emery cloth before we go for the new seal. thanks for the advice. kind regards Larry Schmitz

Larry. I did not proof read my last post. What I was trying to say it the new seal will make it leak "worse". A veritical scratch needs a rod. I have had customers damage the rod and I put a seal in when it really starts pouring out, but it is temporary. I usually file and emery cloth the scrath so it does not stick up above the surface of the chrome.

Hey Lift Doctor, thanks for the info. I will get a new seal in it. Recheck it and then figure on replacing the rod. I will stay in touch as I just got another big lift in and I am sure there will be issues with this one. It is a Taylor 1100 Has 110,000# capacity. best regard Larry S

50,000 #. That is a large lift. Replace the rod or get the rod repaired. When I fix a scored rod, it is a temporary fix until I get a new rod. Sometimes the old seal or dirt in the old seal wear to the score. The new seal makes it least work. I can give you a 100% guarantee that JB Weld will not work.

I have a leaking problem in the mast of my Towmotor. this is a 50,000# capacity. I am planning to replace the top seal. this should help but maybe not fix the problem completely.The mast is scored. Is there a feasable way to fill the scores with something like JB weld. then wet sand and polish smooth? any thoughts on this? regards Larry s

I need a little more info to help you.
1. Are you purchasing the equipment sight unseen like on an auction or in a big lot?
2. What are you wanting to accomplish? Is is a permanant fix, or do you just want to get them out of a 30 day warrenty?
3. Who is doing the reapirs? Is is your own employee, or is it an outside contractor.

I may be able to give you some help on how to quickly indentify leaks if you are doing some sort of inspection before you buy the equipment.

I also may be able to give you some tips on how to direct whoever is doing the repairs.

As far as the stop leak goes, I have not had any luck with it. If these trucks have been sitting for a while before purchase, they may leak worse because the seals and gaskets dry up on a truck that sits. They may be leaking just because they have been sitting idle are were not leaking when they were parked. If you want to try the stop leak, the truck will have to run for a period of time for it to soften the seals and even have a chance of working. I have NEVER spoken with any one that stopped a leak with any of this stop leak except on a cooling system. If anyone has had result from stop leak to fix oil leaks, I would like to hear about it.

Giving the make and models of the trucks you are purchasing would be helpful.

As "Doc" says above," What trucks? What seals or gaskets leak? What oils/fluids are you using?"

We can't give generic answers that will help you. Fixing a leaking 65 Chevy is a whole lot different that fixing a 2005 BMW.

Thank you for your input. They are very educational.

The rear main seal is a very common leak we see. What sort of stop leak products are you refering to (i.e. product names)?

The "blue" gasket maker you are refering to, is it a liguid or paste sealant?

Really this depends on what is leaking and why.
For instance, a minor leak from a rear main seal way be sealed up with some stop leak product. There are new items like this on the market that really work well. Although I have never seen permanant results.

If you have a torn seal or broken out gasket, there is no cure. Time for a replacement.

Also, some seals, and sealants are not tolerant of certain fluids. For instance, the common, "blue" gasket maker isnt oil impervious, meaning that oil will soften and finally distort the sealant. Certain synthetic oils are harder on gasket sealers and some ruber seals as well. Most manufacturers are going with plastic seals as of late. Also anerobic sealants selan when they are NOT in the presence of air making them more relaiable. You should also look for oil impervious and oil resistant gasket sealants.

What trucks? What seals or gaskets leak? What oils/fluids are you using?

Doc.