Assuming this is an S50E series.....

imake sure the park brake is completely released
if you have to, remove the link on the rod on the back side and take the linkage loose.
From the looks of the manual and how this brake is made up there is only one way to access the adjuster and that is through the hole in the drum. So this means you are going to have to figure out a way to put something in the wheel lugs like a crowbar and force the wheel to turn around so the access hole is at the adjuster so you can deadjust it. If that is not possible then since the adjuster is at the top take a torch and cut you a hole. (you are going to be replacing everything anyway after you get it apart, a new drum isn't going to make much difference).

otherwise you are going to be stuck getting two long crowbars and just wrenching the hub off.

Where in the state of Washington are you located, I might be able to point you to a decent tech email us at sales AT intellaliftparts.com

Thanks but unless the Toyota video shows a Hyster S50E wheel STUCK on its brakes, I don't think it will help the topic of this thread. But thanks for bumping it anyway :-)

The forklift is still out back, still need to fix the brake. If anybody has ideas (for a Hyster S50E or similar wheel) I'm still interested!. Thx

We have a series of "how-to" videos posted on Youtube. Go to youtube and search "how to fix forklift brakes". There's about a 20 minute video showing a technician do a Toyota forklift brake job; this might help you as well.

Intella Liftparts

you could try twoforks suggestion with the wheel off, just the drum on and the axle bolts to the drum.
I usually find that about a 6 foot fence post or a 6 foot 2x4, used to pry, alternating top and bottom of the drive tire, with the mast and/or carriage as fulcrum, sort of "walk" the tire and drum (with the axle and bearings out), is about the only chance your gonna have. Sometimes CAREFULLY setting SOME of the truck's own weight back on the wheel will also free it from a 'cockeyed jam'.
hazard warning;
I know that I/you can break a 6 foot wooden 2x4, or bend the fence post like this, (fence post not being the hardest metal pipe you might find, but is light enough to handle without spending too much effort just holding up 6 feet of pipe and about the right diameter to allow access between the mast and wheel) but if I/you put that much grief on the 2x4 and get no motion before it cracks, it is time to try to find some leverage at a different spot. if it moves at all, then it is time to get a different bite at a different angle of/on the drum.

Thx twoforks. Ive done that before too but on this hyster there is no axle stub to push against, the wheel covers the axle ( no center hole)

Try bolting the axle (half shaft) flange to the hub with the inner part pointing out. Sometimes the shape of the flange pushes on the stub and pulls the drum as you tighten the bolts. The axle shaft gives you a good amount of leverage to work the drum off the shoes. It has worked for me but not tried it on a hyster.

guess i can throw in my.02 worth on this
first off hitting the drum with a hammer would be a LAST resort as it can warp the drum, if you plan on trying to save the drum just in case it is salvagable and can be cut back smooth.
Just be prepared to replace it because in alot of cases you will have to because of the wear creating the lip holding the drum.

The mfg of the drums only allow a certain amount of wear anyway like on car drums and disc rotors and most cases its not much wear before they deem it unsafe to use, so replacement is probably inevitable anyway.

But to get to the part about removing it
several idea have been brought forth here on how to get it off.
I have ran into this before several times and sometimes you can get to the adjuster and back it off completely and the drum will come off once you get the shoes centered.
In other cases i have had to take 2 large prybars and just wrench the drum off breaking the hardware holding the shoes etc.
If the shoes are worn that badly and the drum is worn out that much you will have to replace everything anyway so forcing it off is no big deal.
Just be prepared to buy a new drum and shoes and mounting hardware because i can assure you if its worn that badly i doubt the parts will be reusable.

good luck and be safe... doing this can put you in a situation that may hurt you so just be careful.

thx partsguy

I expect a lip, its behaving like that, however there was no lip on the LF side.

t m Cyc,

From time to time you will find where brake shoes have not been changed when they should or in heavy use applications that will wear a groove/lip in the drum which in turn will not allow the drum to be removed. As Mrfixit said you may have to use brute force to remove the drum and in turn destroy parts of the brake assembly. I would count on doing a full brake job including replacing the drum.

thx meliftman, but the drum is not rusted to the shoes. The drum comes out loose, 1/4" out and no more, like its against a lip on the drum. But the adjuster is all the way in so it's a different problem. like the slave is frozen out, or MrFixit above had a good theory too.

I have taken my hammer and hit the drum on the outside around and loosened them up, especially if it has lining holding it back. Don't just frail on it but strike it fairly hard. Have had to take a bar and strike the drum on the inside lip.

Thx MrF you may be right. It does resist turning, and its worse when I pry it out the 1/4". I've already used all my might (need to find some more might) ;-)

It sounds like you're at the point of just having to pry and wretch with all your might to get that off. It may break the pins that hold the brake shoes against the backing plate. The lining may have come off the shoe and jammed in there.