#1. I have seen several discussions here regarding these issues. I had a LP powered Clark CGP50 lot #9515 that we took in trade.
The starter has failed twice and this time the nose cone broke off.
There is no starter bracket on the end of the starter. I assume my customer removed it and we will install a new one which I assume will help the nose cone from breaking off. Is there a GM part # for this?
#2. I have read that there is a time delay kit for the engine which would also cure the nose cone breakage. Was this a standard item on this truck or is it something that has to be added? If it is standard equipment where would it be located? If it isn't can you give me the Clark part #?
Showing items 21 - 40 of 41 results.
The Cat part number for the timer relay is 90401-04293 but it doesn't cross over to a Clark number. You might have to call a dealer.
Basically, it lets the engine spin a few seconds then energizes the ignition coil. Without that, the engine starts before the starter reaches full speed and it torques the nose off. This is only on LP trucks with basic fuel systems (I believe).
Part # for the time delay kit?
The customer has bought a rebuilt engine to install but I want to make sure that it doesn't happen to this one.
It looks like what happened on the other engine is that the torque from the starter elongated the holes in the starter mounting bolts (they were OEM with the knurled potion towards the threads). Once the holes were larger it caused the starter to torque more which in turn cause the threads on the block to get ruined and the bolts worked themselves loose.
So, again, we have installed the bracket kit and the time delay
kit so what can we do to prevent a recurrence of the problem on the new engine?
The V6 GM engine fiited to the Clark CMP40 had the same problem. There is a new bracket which secures the back of the starter. The engine mount has to be cut and the new bracket is bolted in the space where the the engine mount was cut. The outer bolt securing the starter is replaced with a longer bolt. The engine case has to be drilled out and the top surface ground flat to accomodate a nut. You may have to grind a flat on the nut to make it fit. This assumes that the casing is not broke off. Even if the casing is cracked you can do the above fix without the need to weld.
used to have same problem on jungheinrich tfg 30/25 fitted with gm marine engine , the fault was when the engine is stopped and restarted it rocks back if engine is started while rocking back will eventually break nose cone off , two fixes were fitted , use keyswitch that has to beturned back to off before restart , lansing use one jung fit as standard now i think , (in tvh book) also fit a timer and relay in the starter solenoid wire set the timer for a couple of seconds , this allows the engine to stop before starter engaged , we made one up from rs parts bracket helps keep motor in place but not essential.
Id be sure the starter drive is correct,# of teeth on drive.Id say its and interferance problem. Something to think about.
from the sounds of it the first incident probably already cracked the housing mount, just time, heat, cooling, wear and tear caused it to break the rest of the way.
if you repair the block as was suggested and make sure the bracket is on there correctly and all bolts are torqued to factory specs this should not occur again.
When I run into this situation, I do the following: I oversize the bolt holes in the block to install hollow dowels (like the ones you find in bellhousing mountings) & oversize the holes in the starter to the same size & install the hollow dowels. I then get an aftermarket starter from my electrical vendor (not thru forklift channels) that fits Chevy delivery vans that's a gear reduction style with no nose cone.
I've done this twice & so far so good- no call backs. One was in a low use Clark- the other was a high use Hyster.
You don't need a new block or engine when the corner of the block breaks off, we have done quite a few v6 and a couple of V8's that were in FKS15 Hoist's. We have built the block up with weld, machined and fitted a tread insert, been ok since, though the starter set up on all these GM engines are a crap design.
The bolts that hold these starters in should have a knurl...or a raised section on the part of the shank without threads...this helps the bolt grip in the thru hole in the starter and block
Another thing to check is that the bolts that mount the starter to the block are the correct ones we had a lot of problems with this engine in Hoist titans either breaking of the starter nose or the mounts breaking off the block this was traced to techs fitting the starter with just any bolts lol both the correct bolts and the mount brackets are critical if they arent there these starters will always fail
When you install the starter, install the correct bracket, which will support the tail end of the starter and prevent extra pressure on the nose. Should last.
Update.
We installed the starter bracket and the relay kit about a year ago and this truck is in a fairly light duty application.
The truck is now in our shop because the block broke at one of the starter mounting bolts so we have to get a new engine.
The question is what is to prevent it form breaking it again in the future and what is a permanent fix?
I bought the bracket kit and the 2823507 time delay harness. The harness did not come with any instructions on where it plugs in or where to connect the wires. It looks like a relay is supposed to plug into it which did not come with the kit.
Does anyone have an installation instructions that you can send to me?
The bracket kit might be the fix if it's just the nose cone. Which kit you need you'll have to check with your local dealer. All it does is support the rear of the starter (which it REALLY needs support due to the way it's mounted). The number I listed is supposedly the latest and greatest as there are different versions and yes, it's more expensive than the starter was.
I dont know what you need, but double check the starter 1st. Do this before you spend $.
I assume that it's the correct starter.
There is no bracket at all on the starter. How can I tell if I just need a 923045 bracket or the 1813285 bracket kit. The bracket kit is way more expensive that the bracket.
Will the bracket or bracket kit cure the issue or will I still need the time delay kit?
On some of the older trucks, (the ones w/ the rebuidable starter cores), the starter nose breaks due to over cranking. It is the proper starter in the machine?
Forkliftaction accepts no responsibility for forum content and requires forum participants to adhere to our rules of conduct. Click here for more information.
If you are having trouble using the Discussion Forums, please contact us for help.