Swoop....Would you be able to get a copy of this bulletin for the plugs and pins again,or does anyone else here have a copy of it they would share??

actually edward, cat does have a service bulletin out listing all the plugs, pins etc for all the plugs on these trucks. I remember running across this list in a tele-conference bulletin.
Unfortunatly i did not save it.

And yes depending on what year the truck was built, they went to a 2yr std warranty right after Tier2 came out or maybe when Tier 2 came out.

If anyone wanted to know what the warranty status is on thier machine just call the dealer in your area, THEY can get the information from MCFA.

more than likely you could repair the harness. did the cat tech confirm that it is the correct ECM year to match the pressure sensor on the throttle body?
The most likely spots for it to be the harness is right close or in the plug itself to the pressure sensor on the throttle body, or where that.
it is worth noting that, unless MCFA changed it, this harness (and all the related to the emissions control components even the spark plugs) have a much longer warranty period than the standard truck. some as long as 3500 hours. it might be worth checking if the truck is less than 3 years old.
While MCFA may not yet produce a listing that provides part number for the many different plugs used in the wire harness, there is plug kit for the sensor, but it was not listed in the parts manuals, it was provided in a tech support bulletin from about 2005 for changing the throttle body to update the throttle body to match newer ECMs that use the different sensor

P5000 cat wth / k25 nissan / The only way to get any fuel to the sngine is to jump the lockout. the wire shows cont. relay good ect. replaced vaporizer / starts runs rough then gets smooth after warm up. still has cade e 38 tryed peddel dance ecen had cat tech to set fuel as edward t stated. cat rep is not forthcoming with info and origanaly said it needs a harness. 4 grand. It runs fine most of the time but i had to put a switch at the lockout to get 12 v to open [not so safe] But I was under the gun big time. Tryed to get the cat rep back / same guy / said needs a harness.any more ideas before I shoot it?

the pressure reading e38 is causing the lock off to be shut off, would be my guess. have you been successful in clearing the code with the gas tank disconnected? if so, does it get a shot of gas while cranking?

Thanks to all on my truck problem. Today I by passed the lock out and it fired up but still doesn't run so good. I clean the screen next. This truck had little or no maintenance done through the years. I have a hunch the vaporizer has never been cleaned. I still don't know why theres no power at the lock out , all relays are new , fuses are all good. Need to trace that.Question today is rebuild or replace vaporizer?If in fact cleaning doesn't fix it. #2 the lockout needs to hook to a run only source to prevent fuel from entering cyclinders yes? Thanks again for all your help. jo-c

there are 2 'learn in' procedures (Idle air volume ) that need to be done when we change out a ecm or regulator on these trucks. one is just a turn the key on for 5 seconds without starting the motor, the other requires the software and cables.
Are you positive you have the correct ECM for your year and model truck? an ecm for a 2005 will not work in a 2004 built unit and if my (ancient) memory serves correctly, an e38 is the code it throws. One has a 'relative' pressure sensor, and the other an absolute pressure sensor.

no pressure out?
bad solenoid?
bad circuit TO the solenoid?
clogged filter in the inlet side?

just a few thoughts to ponder on

kevin t. Thanks for your help I have fuel to the lock off but none coming out. I also did the p dance / still e38/ Im wondering if theres any rteason why the vaporizor would have a problem only post new ecm.? relays all good and power at the lockout sol.If I put 12v to the sol it should click or somthing rite? Also the vaporizor was working when the ecm Quit. ?? Is this comon after a ecm change? thanks again

If you have zero pressure at the vaporizor first thing i would check is to make sure the lock off solenoid has power and is opening,also is a small screen filter inside the cover on the lock off assembly, can see if that is plugged and causing a issue,it is held on with four small bolts in a square pattern,watch you dont loose the oring that is attached to the cover. can blow the screen out with low pressure air.
If the lock off solenoid dosent have power check all of your fuses and relays and check the wiring and connector at the solenoid.

Thanks for the reply. After replacing the ecm and doing the pedel dance I have a e 38 code /vaporizer. I did put a pressure test on the vap. and have 0 pressure. tank full and flowing / no pressure / has vac. at port during cranking/ cat p 5000 wth nissan k 25 4 cyl. sorry about my typing skills.

p5000 cat. The cat rep said i had a bad ecm. do to mud. I replaced it and it started but chocked on to much fuel. or non vaporized? code says fuel vapor problem.This whole thing started with truck getting in mud from previouse driver. The relay box coroded so it also was replaced. p.s. thanks

jo c; What make and model of truck are you working on? What you can do for now is to verify that fuel pressure, and then if fhe pressure is high and to what degree you may be able to tweek it to within spec of 4.6 to 4.8 psig at engine's coolant temp of 80 C. For this procedure take the following steps: 1. Apply the park brake and block up the drive wheels to prevent truck movement. 2. Close off the fuel tank's supply valve and disconnect fuel hose from supply take. 3. In a well ventilated area with the key sw off crack open the 1/8 inch BSP
on the top side of the regulator. 4. Replace the 1/8 plug with barb fitting, hose & 10 psi guage. 5. Reconnect the fuel line at the tank and turn on the fuel. 6. Turn on key sw and read the pressure guage at the fuel regulator. What is the pressure you are seeing with a cold engine?

Code E-38 is vaporizor malfunction,generally when this code shows the Vaporizor needs rebuilt,is cheaper to rebuild a NIKKI vaprizor than it is to replace it with a new one is just a handful of diaphrams and a "flapper valve" assembly Tar rots the diaphrams and they rupture and cause over pressure if it is to bad then it gets to the injector and injector holder assembly,in that case will need to take apart and clean the injector holder and injector or just replace the injector and be safe with it.

generally with these codes when the problem is corrected the code should go away. If it does not then there is still a problem, could be damage to the pressure sensor? hard to say.

Try doing the pedal dance which has been posted in this forum in many places, just do a search for it and the procedure to do that and clear the codes is there.

Is there any reset proceedure after replacing ecm? I have the same issue , Startes but seems way to fat on lp. If no reset is the only option to replace vaporizor unit ? code also e 38 Thx

the time you spend rebuilding this vaporizer and trying to get it setup correctly could have been minimized if you had just gotten a reman vaporizer(comes preset to correct setting already).

Good luck and fyi, you just assumed the liability yourself instead of the mfg.
doh!

Thanks for all the replies and sorry for my late response. I finally got to this project again recently and decided to rebuild nikki Vapouriser. Rebuild went great but as someone had mentioned the injector body has a relief valve that remained stuck open. I have removed the plug that covers the adjustment screw to remove the needle valve to clean and reinstall. I am not sure as for adjustment procedure for the set screw but i believe the injector inlet pressure while running should be about 5 psi? Is that correct and do i use this screw to adjust this pressure. The truck is now running good but im not sure how to plug the set screw opening as it had a welch plug that i had to destroy to remove it. Any Input would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Ralph ralphspa at hotmail dot com

ralphspa;
I would suggest to you, that you review, read and understand the disassembly, clean, rebuild, adjustment and reassembly instructions for the tamper resistant vaprizer - regulator. If you have not been certified to perform this work you would be advised to give this task to someone who is. You need not accept some serious Canadian legal issues by not doing so.

Could also be a relief valve in the injector holder stuck open,if the regualtor fails,sometimes one of the two relief valves will stick open and stay open even after the regulator is repaired,remove the injector holder and the injector and assistant injector and give it a cleaning,sometimes can just tap on the injector holder with a small plastic faced hammer and will be enough to free the relief.