E115 - I know this is an old thread, but I just ran into this code again. The troubleshooting below is correct and has fixed other units that we have. I went through those steps on this unit, even tested with new contactor and control relay since we have them in stock. Unit would double click and fault to E115 when you tried any function or bringing the control head down to drive position. One occasion, I was able to get the contactor to pull in and the horn to honk, but it sounded muted. I replaced the horn, and everything functioned as it should. I didn't dig any deeper to see if the horn had an internal short or...? Just thought I'd throw this out here, since it doesn't mention it as a possible cause in the book.

my gf doesn't believe anything I say anymore and has no interest in anything like this, I think I'm due for a replacement unit.

glad I could help mpifer and thanks for the reply.

Stam, sorry so long in update. You where correct changed out coil all is well. Thats 2 in a row for you. Show this to your wife for she probably won't beleive you. Thanks for sharing you knowledge. This unit is fixed.

If that contact is closed and you only see 20 volts that is a problem, it can be hard to watch as the contact may close and cycle open fast, record button on a good meter will help with that.
Also what was the coil resistance?

Jumping b+ to the lower side of the contact may work. You have to apply the voltage at the same time as the truck is commanding the contact closed. This truck is to smart for its own good.

You can also power the truck on and supply a gnd to the lift motor solenoid and get the lift to go up and check your batt voltage under load. Careful if you go too high it will possibly break the limit switch on the lower right side.

I checked voltage across contact, 24v on top and on bottom had 20v. To me I am reading the drop though the resistor that hooked up in parallel. I took all wires off the contact and energized it. I took an ohm reading and it read o ohms so to me it should be working right. What do you think if I just jump the batt voltage across the contactor. Everything should work? What would happen if it did not work. Would it then be a bad power pack? It seems to me if I place to B+ from the battery to the other side of the contactor I should at least get the horn and lift out of it. I will pull battery pack and test each battery to see what I get. I will recheck the wire to the contactor coil also. Thanks for feedback on this problem and a reply.

Have you tried a different battery pack yet?
I noticed you check for dcv in series, maybe use b- as you gnd then probe for b+ before and after the contactor.
Also the sense line for the contactor can get put on the wrong spot showing b+ all the time.
I haven't had an amp cause 115 before. Always battery, contactor, fuse, wiring or chassis shorts.

Ohm coil it's good, took it apart cleaned contacts have voltage across when power applied. Check main contactor has voltage. Checked when I brought arm down it read 0 volts.
Power amp has 25.3 volts, light blinking like heart beat should mean no codes found. Has anyone found a power amp to be bad even when it is indicating good no codes found? Ohm out wires and could not find a short or anything open. All is pointing to power amp. anyone have any other ideas or where I can purchase one. Do not have any parts listing for this machine.

Thanks will ohm the coill and check output of amp.

code e115 - contactor off, welded or missing or bad power amp.
Reason: controller couldn't close contactor, contactor welded or contactor missing. (open coil)

Code was added to aid troubleshooting.

I know some say there is not code 115 but That is the code I get. anyone have a code manual? My information dose not have this code in also.