A trick I was showed by an Old Clark tech, take a book. OPen the bleeder screws, and keep topping of the master reservoir. Onve you've finished a chapter close the bleeder screws. THe speed he read at ensured that the brakes bled through naturally. Cost me a beer to get his help, but it worked on every one I ran into after that... It just took longer than I expected or wanted.

a trick I have had good luck with for nearly all brake systems is this: Take a brake fluid bottle and cut off the bottom. Drill a hole in the cap just smaller than a piece of vaccum tubing(tubing should fit snugly on the nipple of a bleeder screw) and fit one end or the tubing into the hole and fit the cap snuggly on the bottle.
When you bleed brakes fit the loose end of the tube over the bleeder before loosening the bleeder and set the bottle above the bleeder so the line is fairly straight and put just enough brake fluid in the upside down bottle to cover the end of the tube. Pump the pedal (full strokes) and watch the fluid level in the resevoir.
This shoud do a fine job for bleeding after installing new components and for flushing brakes and its cheap to make(I came up with this in a fit of frustration on a stuborn brake system if everyone else has already done this then sorry i wasted the space but it has helped me out alot )

i think he just meant the hydraulic inching not the whole tranny
i didnt realize you can get pressure initially and youre not having that issue
depending on the brake system in some IC clarks
youll never get it bled if you dont bleed the inching side 1st (i think this is the conventional brakes with the 2 masters behind the steer column not the disk)
ive tried the compressed air trick a long time ago once
you put a fitting in the cap of the reservoir and force the
the fluid into the system rather than have gravity and the master pull it down (not force air in)
just didnt feel like the correct way to do it seeing the reservoir isnt the strongest of components
i ended up getting them bled conventionally after that didnt work great

lucky for me i havnt run into many clark disk brake problems on gcs's i think most in my area are MB's
maybe the local dealer avoided mc's for problems like this

either way things like this and alot of other factors pretty much take the guess work outta figuring out why clark ran into so much financial trouble

You can spend $1,000's and maybe not correct the problem. Even brand new trucks from the factory had this problem. What happens is that the fluid bleeds down when the truck sits. It is not a pressure problem it is a bleed down problem. There is a company called RJ Machine that makes better components than Clark and once installed usually fixes it. You should be able to google their name, call them and they can tell you what you need. And no you should not do the transmission too. That sounds like bad advice to me-unless the transmission is worn out and slipping.

Hey duodeluxe the letters are mc and the problem is exactly what you said after sitting over the weekend the brakes have no pressure, we have tried bleeding the brakes and after we do that they work fine but if the truck sits the pedal goes away. I talked with some old clark guys and they said if we are going to do the brakes we might as well do the trans also, I hear that you can use compressed air to help bleed the system but to me this sound crazy since it is air I am trying to eleminate. Any way I agree clark brakes are the worst, any advice I would appreciate.

You are missing the most important part of the model #. There are 2 letters after the #. They are most likely "MB" or "MC". The MB means that it has conventional brakes and the MC means that it has disc brakes. The problem with the MB brakes are they are extremely difficult to bleed. They need to be bled from the wheel cylinder up to the master cylinder. The problem with the disc brakes are that they bleed down if the truck sits for 2 or 3 days.

whats the problem?
let me guess theyre locking up? bad valve
theres a thread about it i just read the other day
clark brakes are always a nightmare

also bleed the inching valve before the wheel cylinders