Showing items 1 - 11 of 11 results.
yes quite expensive, we usually get them metal sprayed and machined, but you are right the easy way is not to adjust the brakes up so much..
I appreciate your response. This sounds like a expensive fix. Is there an easy fix? will just loosening the brakes solve this for the short term?
Thanks
On the CGP, the front axle housings wear, at the point they are supported by the chassis mounting bracket. When you jack up the truck to adjust brakes the brake back plate moves to central because it is attached to the chassis. Then you let the jack down and you have the impression that the brakes are over adjusted and binding slightly.....steering and turning can somtimes cause the brakes to bind on a slightly worn axle....hope this makes sense, anybody else found this? I know that went off the thread a little :)
Anthony,
My reply:
HE PROBABLY HAS THE HOSES THAT FEED THE BRAKE VALVE OFF THE STEER VALVE IN THE WRONG PLACE. THE BRAKE VALVE IS FEED SUPPLY FLUID FROM THE RETURN OFF THE P/S VALVE. IT IS NOT PRESSURIZED FLUID , ONLY RETURN OIL
Anthony,
I forwarded your question to my Clark "go to guy". Should have an answer today.
Steve
I also have a CGP25 with brake problems. It seems that everytime you turn the steering wheel the brakes get applied. It really slows down production. Is this because the brakes may be adjusted too tight or could there be a problem with the hydraulics? Your help would be appreciated.
cheers for that forklift, cleaned & adjusted brakes on thursday, driver not called since to say they poor.
after adjustment brakes did feel much better and didnt have to push pedal as hard.
Ian,
That system actually keeps residual pressure to the wheel cylinders at all times. When you shut the machine off you should be able to crack a bleeder and get pressure out.
I suggest you check the shoe adjustment. Lift the drive wheels, remove the wheel and put two of the lug nuts back on to keep the drum in place. Remove the 1/4" bolt and remove the access cover on the brake drum. At 4 and 8 o'clock set your brake shoe clearance at about.0020" as I recall. This is a **** system with the 2 star wheels. I like to go about 5 clicks left, then 5 clicks right until the shoe clearance is in spec..
thanks for that mrfixit, but this problem has just started in last couple of days, brakes were good, then all of a sudden just went poor.
I can shed a little light on that system. Instead of a master cylinder and brake fluid it uses a valve and hydraulic oil. The valve has a hose supplying it with low pressure oil (500psi ?). There is a bypass return line from the valve and the steel brake line going to the wheel cylinders. When you push the petal it should be closing down the bypass return and building pressure to the brakes. The problem I had with one of those was that in cold temperatures and thicker oil the by pass could not keep the pressure way down so there was slight pressure in the brake lines even with your foot off the brake. That would cause the brake shoes to drag. The only cure was to install stronger brake shoe return springs. Maybe changing to a lighter oil would have helped.
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