We picked up this lift about 6 months ago, had a new model J regulator and CA100 mixer I put on, it would start and idle okay, but it smelled very rich but needed choked to run anything over idle, if you didn't choke it and gave it throttle it would just fall on its face and die. Even running choked the engine didn't have much power, it is a f245 continental. since then it has new LP hoses and I installed another mixer and a newer cobra regulator/vaporizer. as well as a new lock off valve and new propane tank. Still smells rich but needs choked to run anything over idle, even at idle it helps to have the intake almost completely covered. I did set the valves, checked compression, all the holes were 110-135. valves all moving. Any help would be appreciated.
Ryker
Showing items 21 - 40 of 41 results.
Ok I tried the ignition resistor, made the spark weak and irratic. Wouldn't start. Took it out and it is normal. With the EV1-14 diaphragm in it, it runs somewhat better. Have the mixer on the "R", it still smells rich but it will not run as well if you lean it out. We have an analyzer for the exhaust but it needs recalibrated. When that is done I'll see what it says
The PN on the diaphragm I have with a number is EV1-14
None taken, points are just what I had readilly available.
I do have another diaphragm with a number on it, i'll put that in so i know where to start.
Back to the points that is all I have ever delt with.
No numbers on diaphragm. I had one like that once it would flood the room with c o.
Av1-14-2 or av1-14-4 (silicone) is what I sell 99% of the time. Av1-14 and av1-14-3 (silicone) are richer.
No disrespect but are you good with points? Magnetic pick up is so much easier. The dwell can really throw your timing off.
Nothing starts to look frosty, no. I'll get an ignition resistor and see what thatll do, double check the spark too. Thanks
Make sure during cranking you get a bright blue spark that can jump at least a 1/4"
I just re-read the blog & see you don't have an ignition resistor. I'd source one from a local auto store & temporarily install it in the power line to the coil to see if it makes a difference.
If you start the lift & slightly raise the rpm to where the engine seems to lean out & you keep the rpm there for a few minutes does any part of the lp system start to look frosty?
Oh, also, it did have an electronic ignition when I got it but I had no spark. I went back to points. The name on that electronic IG was "perlux".
Ok I have the bottom of the mixer off, I see no number on the diaphragm.
It does have a new ignition coil. I'm not sure if it has a built in resistor or not, it doesn't have an external resistor. I do have good spark now and it runs much smoother. Still just will not run anything over idle without partially covering the intake. It will idle without that but it idles nicer if you do partially cover the intake.
Sounds like an ignition issue. Where'd you source your ignition parts? Is the spark bright blue & can the spark jump at least a 1/4" gap? Also- was the ignition coil changed? If so, does the unit have an ignition coil resistor or a coil with a built in resistor? If there's an external resistor- make sure the coil doesn't have a resistor built it. Does the unit still have points or was it converted to electronic with a pertronix unit?
Having it on R helps it, but still isn't quite enough. Take the bottom of the mixer off and check out the diaphragm?
Do you have the main fuel valve set to R ? If so, check the number on the diaphragm in the mixer. I see they come in lean and rich types.
Ok I thought I had put a new cap and rotor on but I had not, Runs much better, no miss. but it still wants a little choke to rev much over idle, without choke it coughs and sputters still.
It has new points cap and rotor plugs and wires, I have moved the timing advance and **** while running until it seemed to run best. I'll see what I can do about the miss. Thanks guys
Stam is right, also check the timing.
Get that miss sorted. Tune up parts are so cheap just put all new plugs cap rotor wires points if still equipped and coil!!!
I have tried richening it, leaning it, nothing seems to help it.
I cant say it doesn't have a vacuum leak but I highly doubt it, I have a good vacuum at the manifold, more than 40" water gauge cranking it over. That is between the engine and carb, on the manifold.
I put all new hoses on it as well and have leak checked them. no leaks.
I have tried spraying ether around all the gasket surfaces on the intake to see if it would get any into the engine, it didn't.
If you checked and have good compression on all cylinders maybe you have a vacuum leak. Did you adjust the mixer fuel valve richer? The one near where the hose attaches. Also is the hose ok that goes from vaporizer to mixer?
It has an up draft manifold, updraft mixer. Yes I do have hot spark, I have spark at all 6 but when running have a miss on 5, I have compression on that cylinder so I wouldn't think the valves aren't sealing?
Like I said I did reset the valves, everything I could find on contenentals said.014 and.016, unless propane wants different?
Downdraft mixer mounted to updraft manifold? Maybe a spring change? Way out of left field.. but thought I would say it.
I'm not even close to right this is a 60 I didn't look.
Are you getting hot spark?
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