I picked up a non running clark c500 y80 today I am unsure of the year the data plate was painted over at one point. I assume the serial # is y685-385-2153 then 273 appears to have been added at the end. Lift hasn't been run in 2 years but was apparently in fine running shaped when put away.
Either way there are a few problems I have found with the lift so far.
one is that fuel does not flow through the vaporizer. I already checked that electromagnetic safety valve, and even removed it from the system to be sure. I assume the vaporizer is bad or stuck or clogged? It appears to be newer compared to the rest of the parts.
the second is that it appears to have alot of coolant mixed in with the oil when I pulled the dip stick. I assumed this was a blown head gasket issue. So I pulled the plugs a few were quite damp. I did a compression test and got a result of from back to front 155,140,115,0,145,145. The cylinder with zero it appears the one of the valves is stuck open when cranking and looking in the spark plug hole it isn't moving.
I didnt plan on rebuilding the whole motor is there any known work around for this? I sprayed a bunch on penetrant down the cylinder to see if it loosens.
Also mice or something ate through two spark plug wires is there a delco or generic PN I can use for these?
Also what even is this motor? Its an lp flat 6
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The hyd tank is on the right side- as sitting on the machine. There should be a plug under the tank for draining purposes. If you take off the top of the tank (with the hoses going to it)- that's where the hyd. filter is ( I'd replace that also). Unit should take between 5 & 10 gallons.
As far as the brakes- it's a fairly complicated system. There's a master cyl connected to your brake pedal- which feeds 2 circuits- the brake circuit & the inching circuit. The inching circuit puts the trans in neutral when the brakes are applied.
The brake circuit goes from the master cyl., thru a remote brake power booster assy, then to inboard reverse acting disc brakes inside the rear housing. If your brake pedal is high & rock hard, I would suspect your discs are wet from either brake fluid or trans fluid- Either way the disc assy's will have to be removed for service. You will need some serious mechanical ability & a wide variety of tools to attempt to get into the brakes. The parts for the brakes are available but get quite pricey.
Okay great. I finally got it off my trailer and drove it around some. It moves its self kind of slowly sometimes kind of fast sometimes. The hydraulic fluid is kind of milky looking. Is there a drain on the tanks some where? Also how much does it take? I noticed one side has what looks like a filler with a strainer. The other side has a filter and a bunch of hoses going into the top. I unscrewed the filter and thats where I saw the milky fluid. Also its only about half filled.
Also the brakes hardly work. I have to stand on them to slow the lift. The peddle is rock solid. I would assume they probably need to be flushed and bled as well. Are they like car brakes with bleeders at the drums?
I use Napa R & O hydraulic oil- I believe it's SAE rating is AW32. Any hyd oil equivalent will do.
okay ill check the atf first.
Is there any specific kind of hydraulic fluid to use? I know tractor supply has it in 5gallon buckets. never looked to close at it tho.
Your model came thru with either a manual or automatic trans. The manual version was usually indicated in the model #- with either a F or H in included with the model #.
If this isn't the case, then yours would be an automatic. There should be a dipstick at the very top of the floorboard- by the gas pedal- that would be my first check, not only does the ATF (Dextron type) have to be full- in should also be pink & have the usual ATF smell. If it's brown or smells burnt- you may be in trouble.
If both those checks pass the test, then there's a gizmo called an "inching spool" which allows that trans to be put into neutral by the brake pedal. Check the level & color of the ATF before we jump into this circuit.
And- low hydraulic fluid won't cause tranny issues- if the unit has sat for 2 years I'd recommend flushing the hyd. system & replacing the hyd oil.
edit: I think I figured it out. The linkages were so out of adjustment I think I got it sorted now. Is there a clutch pedal? When i put the lift into foward or reverse I can hear and feel the gear engage but it wont move.. Will low hydraulic fluid cause this? I can imagine it is low on fluids from sitting.
Thanks for the replies guys. I reconnected everything as it was when I bought the machine. I was figuring it was some sort of configuration issue.
I am having a hard time following what you wrote, I am sure it will be more clear, when I am standing in front of the forklift.
bb, you are actually very concise when compared to some of the sleep inducing dissertations I am guilty of :^)
Saw your video- the upper arm should come from the gas pedal. This arm should be spring loaded towards the rear of the machine (at the mixer shaft). The spring to accomplish this should be under the floorboard up at the gas pedal.
The lower arm comes from the engine governor (not a choke assy). This arm should be spring loaded towards the front of the machine (at the mixer shaft). The spring to accomplish this is at the base of the governors arm.
The theory of operation is as follows:
The arm from the gas pedal is spring loaded to the idle position.
The arm from the governor assy is spring loaded towards full throttle. The gas pedal spring (being stronger) pushes the arm on the mixer shaft which in turn rotates the mixer shaft to idle (when no pressure is applied to the gas pedal). As pressure is applied to the gas pedal, the gas pedal arm on the mixer shaft is pulled towards the front of the unit, allowing the arm from the governor to rotate the mixer shaft towards full throttle. Once the governed speed is reached, the governor pulls back on the governors arm (overcoming spring tension), rotating the shaft in the mixer back towards idle. This is done no matter what position the gas pedal may be in.
Hope that made sense-just like L1ftmech said- I'm just long winded :)
Definitely paleolithic. It appears that this linkage arrangement is meant to have the throttle plate opened by the foot pedal......with a mechanical governor to over-rule that action when RPM exceeds the setting of the governor mechanism.
It may be that the linkage parts are somehow transposed from their intended positions or that a specific "set up and adjustment" procedure has not been done.
Posting on this forum is like being in the stone age. No photos, no links, no bb code, no html. It makes it frustrating to have to use this website.
youtube. com/watch?v=7cVHd6NZot8
Okay so I got a new mixer, changed the plugs and wires and this bad boy fired right up. I don't think the choke mechanism that works off of the thermostat housing works right. I had it running for about 10 mins and it never idled down. I had to manually push the lever my self.
My main issue is how the heck does the throttle linkage work? The peddle is connected to the throttle body via a free moving linkage piece. When the peddle is pushed it moves but doesn't do anything.
Thankfully the hydraulics all seem to work. I haven't tried the brakes, or to drive it yet because of the throttle issues.
Here is a video I took of it running and me trying to explain the throttle issues. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cVHd6NZot8
Thanks BB Forks. I havent had alot of time to play with this the last few weeks. I need to find a local forklift repair place to find out about this mixer.
Year of manufacture seems to be 1970-71. Still waiting to find out part # for carb (mixer).
yeah bb there are some older converters that had that type of system internally, after some thinking the model J's heat exchanger is isolated, basically a straight through path. But it did strike me funny he says he has coolant in the vapor line and mixer. Where was it comming from then? Thats why i was thinking this, there could still be an issue in the converter like a cracked exchanger or something.
So with that said replacing the converter is still the right course of action to take imo.
Since he seems according to that picture to have the cobra converter since there is no primer button on it he can look on the cover and there are numbers specifying pressures he can use to get the correct one. OR he can just remove it and take it to the parts store and match it up.
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