Update: got everything up and running the wheel cylinder were shot thank you for all the help

the axle flange should have threaded holes in it, use the axle bolt threaded in to that to pull the axle, clean the surface and apply a sealant when reassembling

loosen the nuts on the wheel but leave them on
then take a large sledge hammer and wack the edge of the wheel if the wheel is hard to get off.
as for the axle leave the bolts on and do the same thing, loosen them but dont remove them, then take a hammer and smak the axle plate and it should pop loose.
Don't hit it extremely hard but give it a good bump a couple times
it will pop loose.
You might want to deadjust the shoes first too before attempting to remove the drum, if they are adjusted out it will be alot harder to pull off.
And being a large truck those drums are heavy so BE CAREFUL, get some help :o)

UPDATE: so I rebuilt the master cylinder the seals were shot and there was a little bit of rust in places got everything cleaned up and cleaned up the booster (it was in good shape) and I am still having issues (except no air when I bleed the master cylinder) so I am moving down the the wheel cylinders and am going to do a full brake job..... if I can get the axle unstuck from the hub

when I bleed the wheel cylinders its fluid then air when i bleed the master clylinder its air then bubbly fluid I am going to pull the master cylinder today and rebuild it Thank you guys for your help

only 2 places it can pull air in at
-master cylinder
-wheel cylinders
normally...
unless there is a crack in a line or a fitting leaking somewhere

being an XL2 model it has some age on it
my guess is to pull the master cylinder boot back and see if there is any fluid inside the boot, also pull the wheels and check the wheel cylinders.

AND... even if you do this and see no fluid present it still can pull air in if the MS plunger seals or wheel cylinder seals are dried out from age.
when they get old they may shrink up or just be worn enough to allow air to get sucked in when the pedal is released, therefore is where the air is coming from.

Checking the lines for leaks is a bit tricky though, you'll need a pressure bleeder to do this to apply pressure, if there are any cracks or loose or damaged fittings the pressure will make it show up.
If you find no issues during that then the problem has to be in the seals.

When you bleed it, does the air start to come out as soon as the wheel cylinder is cracked open? If so, test both sides and figure out which wheel cylinder is letting the air in. I've come across this twice in my 30 years of forklift repair. Somehow, it can get in the wheel cylinder. If the air isn't in the wheel cylinder as soon as you open the bleeder then it must have a problem further up somewhere.