Just ask your Crown dealer for:
1. kit, two NEO motors, 151765, 1 pc

I join the question. What are these NEO engines and where to buy them? How do they look? Where to buy them? If I order original Crown engines, will they send NEO engines to me?

I posed the question of ''What is a NEO motor" to my nearest dealer. He didn't seem to know anything about them and was going to contact his district Service/Parts manager. That was on July 12...no response from him yet. Would you be able to provide a part number or additional information on the NEO motors? Thank you again for your help and insight!

Hello,
to put it in simple; the old motors have a design fault. What ever you do you'll end up replacing them.

I've replaced at least ten of this motors with new NEO model. The symptoms are always the same; WAVE pulls to one side, motors have a loud wheezing sound (brushes jumping), steering and accelerating is twitchy, braking is bad, motors draw more current, batteries discharge quickly and of course, there is an "LEFT OR RIGHT MOTOR OPEN" error.

When you open the motors you will find a handful of brush dust and that some fields of commutator are uneven or burned. This shows that there is an issue with specific windings or the commutator itself. You can take the rotor out and machine it, but the problem will recur. If you repeat that it will only recur sooner.

Once I even gave it to a specialist to rewind the whole rotor and to solder of the commutator and check it from below. He found nothing and the problem recur again.

I should say something is "undersized" or the brush dust creates a short circuit. What ever you do you can only bring it to factory condition, which in term leads to not being good and doesn't fix the problem.

Because of the above, Crown launched NEO motors. They look the same from outside except they have a few vent holes. I didn't dare to open them because they cost a fortune. I have WAVE's running with them for a few years with no issues. Some of them used only 1 mm of brushes which is remarkable. Note that you have to change some parameters in the controller when you change them.

fixitandy, I've disassembled this motor and used a lathe and very fine emery cloth to polish out the defects on the comm. The factory brushes were still at 13mm so I'm going to clean them up a bit and give them a try. I'll still give it some no-load run-in time to reseat the brushes a bit. Thank you for your insight.

I can't help with the NEO motor issue, because that came along after I left Crown, but as for the brushes, I have found that you must replace them before you start getting motor fault codes. After you get the motor open codes there is no guarantee they will ever be right again.

I have cleaned up minor comm damage with modest success by using a very fine slender brush stone through the brush port. Physically disconnect the motor power leads, have the drive wheels jacked off the floor, and put it in push mode, then spin the drive wheel by hand to make the comm turn. It should only take a couple of spins to get the job done, then remove all the brushes and blow the motor out real good. I would only do this to a motor that has visible (light) comm damage. If it's heavy damage don't waste your time, just replace it. If changing the brushes before a fault has occurred, just blow it out.

Only OEM brushes should be used. The after market brushes have different brush cover caps, the lead is soldered on differently and the springs are lighter. I also think the brush material is harder. The OEM brushes are more silvery, the aftermarket are charcoal like

I'm going from memory on this part, so someone can correct me if I'm wrong. The new brushes straight out of the package are @ 14mm. The manual states the wear limit is 10mm measured length. A brush that appears to be only 50% worn is actually well past the limit.

The motors do get fairly hot when run on low brushes or with a weak set of batteries. Otherwise they run warm unless traveling on inclines or very long high speed distances.

I know this is a very old thread, but may I ask what a NEO motor is as compared to the 141444 factory motor? We have a couple 50-118's that are throwing occasional left motor open faults and I'm debating the best course of action. I pulled one of the motors apart and found very minor comm. wear. The wear was a little uneven, like they had stalled them out against something. I also read something about identifying the factory brushes compared to aftermarket, but can't seem to find that now. I believe they were saying the factory Crown brushes appeared to have silver-like spots on them. Thank you for your input.

As a secondary question, does anyone have any personal experience with the new motor that Warfield Electric offers?

Aha yes.
I've usually installed the cam so that the "narrow round end" goes towards the end of the shaft.
On this machine I've installed type of cam without the round end which I had from before.
One of the original cams was pretty messy because when I was changing the motors I had to pull it out with pliers. It was also sanded to smooth the surface back to normal.

I still don't understand why are the motors getting hot.

by way of cam i mean the adaptor that goes on the end of the motor shaft.
round id with woodruff key and hexagonal outer

thanks for the correction Crownie...

Hello crownie,
thanks for your reply.

NEO motors were installed on 2008 truck.
Yes, I've updated the controller software.

What "cam"?

The two motors have the same temperature.
Could there be a higher resistance in the drive units?

sorry to contradict you Edward but the wav only uses the brakes as a parking brake and emergency brake
when turning the controller will reduce and eventually reverse the direction of the motor on the inside of the turn.
the early brakes with two pads used to crack easily.
make sure the "cam" is installed up the correct way on the brake
otherwise the brake will drag
WAV motors get warm but definately not hot
when you installed the NEO motors did you update the software
or did you have a newer truck

Hello Edward t,
I see that we are already on the same path.
I was to come to brakes issue later.

This WAVE has two new NEO motors installed.

The customer called me that there was smoke and burning smell coming from the traction NEO motors. I ran over there and found out that the right brake overheated. The brake jaws changed color and there were scratches on them. The disc also had damage.

I've disassembled the brakes, sand out the scratches, cleaned them and put them back on. They click nice, the disc seems completely free but the motors are still getting hot and that is my concern.

Are there any issues with brakes?
Is there something fishy with them that I should watch out for?

does it drive straight ahead with no adjusting the steering? if not you should "balance" the steering pot with a Curtis handset, as this uses the brakes as well as the motor power to steer, you may also want to rlift the motors off the ground, and run it a while to see if the motors still get hot, and if so, remove the brakes and see if it gets hot the same.