Hi bob,
yeah i looked at the date of this post after i made it and figured you may have fixed it since there was so much time past. :o)

Yes that does make sense though once i thought about it more. If your engine wasnt grounded to the frame properly the electrical system was seeking a ground through the shortest path of least resistance and of course the throttle cable was the most likley area since it does connect to the frame through it's mounting at the accelerator pedal area.

As for the belt thing, thats an unsusal one for me. I have never ran across one that i couldnt slide that shaft back on. Could it be possible someone has gone in and altered that setup at some point? Welded the shaft because it might of been worn and rattling? I guess at this point in the game it's a moot point as you've obviously already gotten this job done. :o)

Laterz,

John,
Thanks for the reply. Since the problems with this machine are all behind now I'm sending this note just in case it helps someone else and to let all know what went on. As far as the belt.... We have many Yale and other machines. In most cases we are able to squeeze the belt through. Not on this one. For whatever reason there was no room no matter how hard we tried. I questioned the local Yale reps and they said the same.
As far as the throttle cable.... Once I installed a heavy ground directly to the engine from the battery the problem was solved. I did look at all the wiring and saw no evidence of anything hot rubbing the frame or engine. I don't know why all of a sudden this started, but I went thourgh 5 throttle cables. the cable would get hot enough to melt the housing only when cranking over the engine. So if the machine did not start within a couple of seconds, the cable fried. It's been months and it's OK.

Bob k,
if your getting any type of electrical current through the throttle cable it sounds to me like you have something in the electrical harness shorting out against that cable somewhere. Make sure the cable isnt rubbing against any electrical switch or terminal anywhere under the floorplate or panels. I'm sure the ground straps will help somewhat but it also wouldnt hurt to double check your harness and cable routing. NO electrical current should go through that cable whatsoever. It's gotta be comming from somewhere.

And as has already been mentioned:
Unfortunatly most if not all lifttrucks of this type mount the hydraulic pump in the rear subframe inside the counterweight and is driven from the front of the crankshaft of the engine via a yoke and driveshaft. There are a few models that do drive the pump off the transmission like the S model hysters or some of the older trucks that mount the pump on the timing cover housings, but you dont see those much anymore.

Anyway that shaft/yoke will have to be taken loose to change the belt. There should be 4 13mm or 1/2in bolts to remove before the yoke can be slid back away from the harmonic balancer/pulley. Once those are removed the shaft will slide enough to get the belt off.

As for moving the pump? No you dont have to.

Thanks !! I ran a wire from the negative battery terminal to the chassis and one from the chassis to the engine. I will put one right to the engine. It must need one as I toasted another cable !!

You don't have to pull the pump.
Just unbolt the driveshaft from the crank pulley.
You can move it enough to fit the belt(s) through.

As for the throttle cable, I think you are on the right track...
If you already ran a ground strap to the engine, then I'd say the chassis needs a better ground.
The neg. cable should attach to the engine first. Then the ground strap just has to handle the current from the dash and lights.