Good news for me. I found the problem today. It was a pinched wire in the deadman proximity switch at the control handle along with the fact the switch was out of adjustment. I don't know how they managed to pinch the wire where they did (in a protected area) but it did come from a government agency, nuf said. The wire was broken but was still making some contact, probably just enough to complete the circuit but not enough for the switch to operate correctly. I repaired the wire and adjusted the switch and everything worked fine. I ordered a new switch (was in stock locally) and will replace the repaired switch. With only 14 hours the boss wants this truck to be perfect when sold. Thanks to all for the help.

Sorry guys I have not been able to post for the past few days, We had an arson fire in our shop over he weekend and needless to say we have been busy cleaning up the mess. We got very lucky, we only lost one truck. We have insurance so we will come out OK. I am aware of the break bypass connector, that's how I got it to roll the first time I got it to work. This truck dose not have an on board charger so that is not the issue either. I will be pulling off the motor cover tomorrow and will check the brushes to make sure they are free in their holders. Most of the stuff we get in is older and we do not see many Zapi controllers ( mostly Curtis ) so I have used this lift to talk the bosses into getting us an interface cable and software for the Zapi so if the brushes are not the problem I can jack in and take a look at the controller. I will let you know what I find, thanks for the help.

you know, one thing I didn't think about, this unit has a "brake release circuit", that you can disconnect one set of wires and plug it into a particular normally empty 'molex' connector, and it will power the brake solenoid so you can push this truck, if that is the case, you will need to put the brake wires back into their proper connection, and then the unit may work correctly.
also to consider on this unit, there is a connection to the battery charger, that when the battery charger is plugged into 110vAC, the unit is completely disabled, and has no codes.
you might check to be sure the wires to the on-board charger, too.

yes it does sound as (since it had been sitting for years idle) the brushes may be stuck in thier holders and not making good contact with the armature.
If that motor is similar to their older motors it may have an end cover that can be removed and you can look at the brushes?
See if they are corroded or stuck.

What your seeing on the display guage is it cycling through its check phase, it shows the controller model or firmware number and then goes to 'on' mode which displays the hours.
If there were any problems during the self check it would have displayed a module number with an error code probably. Since it did not then it sounds like something along the lines of what edward said.

good luck!

Here is what I have found so far. The meter has 5 LEDs ( 4 out of 5 lit ) around a small LCD display. When it is first powered up the LCD reads EP100 and then goes to the hour meter. None of the LEDs flash. I think that Edward T might be on to something with the traction brushes, I put the breaks in bypass and rolled the lift back and forth a few feet (started out very hard to move) took it out of bypass and the lift fired up and functioned perfectly, that is until I moved it over to the charge station to do an equalized charge on the battery. We needed to move it out of the way of a battery going out to the battery shop and when it was plugged back in it was back to no operation. The LED that I referred to as ON (in the other post)was the LED at the bottom of the handle to signal that it had been pulled down for operation.

the LED you see acts as a power/code LED
if there were any active codes in the controller it would be flashing a code
if it is on steady then no codes are present
if it has a premium BDI guage it may show battery status and display codes in the hour meter area of the guage also.
When you power the unit on watch the bdi guage and see if any numbers come across it while it's powering up.

the fact that you have a light on the controller 'on' means it is getting power. Have you checked the brake switch at the base of the handle on the drive unit? Most units will not do much of anything until the handle is pulled down to activate the system in drive mode. If there were any problems in the tiller card there would be a code. Go back and double check control fuses, brake switch, and you may want to check the power fuse on the buss bar if it has one. Sometimes they look good and even ohm out good but under load they dont work, IE: partially blown in a way you can't detect with a meter or see.

i'm sure there may be other things to check but these are just a couple off the top of my head...

Other than that i'm at a loss

your may have the optional hour-meter/bdi and errors are shown in the leds and lcd, that would explain why all the plugs on the controller are full. the ones that go to the display are the ones a led can be plugged into. the display is better by far.
what does the display say, which leds are lit?

Here is all of the numbers. model is MSW025SEN24TV080 and the serial number is A895N014012. It dose have a ZAPI controller. I can see the LED and it is on. I have looked at the connectors on the controller and all the plugs are full. Where can the LED be plugged in at to get the codes and or which plug is for the handset? I do not see any 4 conductor connectors on the controller. Thanks for the help.

here is a wild guess (and not much more, a serial number would be a big help) you have a zapi controller that controls both the pump and traction, and you have (again a wild guess) traction motor brushes or the main contactor rusted stuck.
also, if this is the unit I think, it has a led that you can see when you look down into the joint that connects the control handle tot the traction unit when the handle is worked and the key on (handle position switch is light operated), and this unit has to have the handle see the up or down position before it will reset the static return to off circuits. of course from what we know so far, you could have a bad key switch.
there is a place in the zapi controller right were the control wires plug in for a handset or optional led to be plugged in to flash error codes.