Stephen;
From the information given here we can determine that this is a sit down counter balance four wheel class V (pneumatic). It has a K21 engine with a serial number K21-K46308X and an automatic single speed transmission with a serial number of MHF90031. It was built on Oct. 2006 in Maringo, Ill. for North American use with Electronic Fuel Injection and 2.5 ton lift capacity. The 50 Amp totally open alternator's OEM, six month full service warrentied, part number 23100-FU410 has it's control feed coming from the meter panel that has a unique socket bulb. assembly
Sometimes the failures on starters and alternators has to do with the wrong applications or improper installations. I have recently seen some TVH boxes for some of their starters and alternators that are coming in printed with installation guides and troubleshooting solutions. The feedback from our technicians has been very positive so far and has helped greatly.
I won't use TVH starters or alternators- I've spent way too much time replacing defective electrical parts from them on my own time. I have a seperate vendor for those items.
We normally find it takes at least 2 attempts to get TVH to deliver an undamaged alternator due to there poor packing on these items.
Something like a alternator needs extra protection as the box its shipped in will get knocked / dropped in transit, its normally the fan that gets damaged but we have also had the main body damaged on one as well.
dont feel bad stephen, cat has had similar issues with its alternators on the P and C model trucks. Our promatch ones are like playing russian roulette, theres a 50/50 chance the one you get will work. And even when we take them to the rebuild/repair shop they have to use OEM voltage regulators in them, if they use the aftermarket VR's they dont work.
glad you figured it out though ;o)
i hope it wasn't a smh alternator,i've seen alot of defective units from them before along with there starters
The first alternator was probably made on a friday afternoon!
stephen j- I know EXACTLY what you mean.
Put another alternator on today and worked like it's suppose to, I hate it when you put on new parts and they are bad and everybody thinks you don't what your doing.
I have checked the voltage on the two wire plug and have the voltages there. I would think one would go to battery volts and the other to the light in the dash like most systems. The battery light does work and goes out after starting. Also the big wire for output seems to be ok, did what you said, ran a jumper direct to battery. Also ran a ground direct to the alternator, still no charge output. I did not know if they are using a resistor or something inline with the sensor wire. Just seems odd that a new alternator would be bad and do the same thing as the old one, but I know new parts can be bad also, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Thanks.
With the key on you should have battery voltage at both small wires. If you do then check continuity on the larger wire that goes from alternator to positive on the battery, I've seen where they look good on the outside but are bad inside. You can also use a heavy gauge jumper and go from Battery to alternator.