So if I swap control wires on contactors from forward to reverse left to right side
slow open goes to reverse ?

So got back to working on this unit today.Installed suppressors on both forward contactors ,Did not change anything ,
even if I take the motor control wires off the top of contactors still does the slow open any more ideas?

Up Date
Battery Pos, too truck Neg is good 2.6 M ohms
Have not gotten suppressors yet

Like stated above I'd be looking at isolation from the frame and clean power 1st. 50K+ ohms Batt+ & Batt - to frame (batt disconnected of course)... Have any aftermarked devices been added? ie shockwatch or g-force crash sensor? computer? etc...? If so unhook all non stock items and re-test.

Yes complete new Contactors,

Yes when you touch wires at forward M/S.jump M/S. still has problem
It is only in forward direction, reverse drops out no problems.
I have connected the old contactor with just the coil wires they have the same slow drop out also ?
I have ordered a supressor to try. will advise

when pacfork says "it has new contactors" is that the entire contactor assembly or tips?

check the resistance on the directional contactor coils
the one with the highest resistance is probably causing the slight delay in the actuation.
it also could be a worn armature in the contactor causing the drag and delay.
in either case the contactor will need to be replaced.

and on another note, as long as i've worked on crown lifts they have been fairly consistent in the addition of a suppressor of some sort on the contactor coils, usually they are a small square black plastic block that mounts in between the terminals of the coil. When the wires are disconnected sometimes they can fall out of place and get lost... i would check all the contactors and see... if some have them and some don't then someone did not put them back in place if the contactor was replaced in the past. If none of them are there it might be possible crown has stopped using them. If you have access to a parts manual they should be shown in the breakdown if they are supposed to be present on the circuit/coil.

are both contactors doing this or only one ? if it is only one is it for the left or right hand contactor ? contactors always have the positive on them and are given the negative from the EV-100 card

if it were me, my first move would be to check -all- the power cables for ANY (less than 100K ohms) short to frame, and eyeball all the cables to be sure none are soaked in corrosion, replacing any that are soaked, or have ANY damage to the insulation. next I would test to see if I could tell if the power was bleeding through the directional switch because of moisture or corrosion inside the switches (does removing the power [common] wire from the switch allow the current flow to stop as it should, does removing the normally open wire from the switch end current flow as it should? do the same on the reverse switch as it may have a circuit that runs through the rev switch normally closed side that should open up when the reverse switch closes, for opening the power to the forward circuit.

May be ?
I have changed lots of this style contactor never seen a suppressor on any of them
Pt # on the contactor is Cr116794.001 TVH
I swapped out 22 Rec,25 Rec ,23 Filter.24 Rec No Joy
Thanks

It could be that the power flowing through the buss bars of forward contactor may be inducing voltage/magnetism in the contactor coil, holding it on for a bit even though the controller has stopped the voltage. Those Albright contactors usually have a filter or suppressor on them. It would look a little capacitor right across the terminals on the coil. If not, you could try a Crown part 077728 suppressor.

No M/S not sticking
It is Voltage is taking it"s time to drop down when M/S is opened

100 LX
It has new contactors in, it but has same problem using old ones ?
S#!A200531

Is the control handle micro switch sticking?????

100 LX
It has new contactors in it but has same problem using old ones ?