The weird thing is other then that I can't find any shorts. And negitive terminal to chasis show about 83.6 ohms.

tested across leads 36v. positive lead to chasis is 21v :(

no short bv - to frame, no short bv + to frame, no short AL1, AL2, SL1, SL2, AR1, AR2, SR1, SR2, P1, P2, PS1, PS2, T2 to frame. no short to frame in the back up alarm circuit or headlights.
no short to frame.
The battery WILL have some leakage to frame and it will be readable by voltage with most volt meters, but in a good battery this will not have enough current to light a 12 volt sealed beam light bulb from either battery cable to the frame of the truck.

specequip, look at the hour meter diodes if what Ed advises you to do checks out electrically clean with no short BV NEG to frame.

specequip, your truck has a short T2 to battery NEG. The card is doing it's job. The logic card needs some inputs; first on the list all control switches must close in a proper order, next the PMT circuit in the card is looking at the power circuit to see if any shorts are present T2 to POS and a bridge circuit in the card is comparing the voltages T2 to POS with T2 to NEG. When the KSW is turned on these voltages should both be 18 volts with a 36 volt truck. To confirm T2 to NEG will be the other half of the remaining 36 volts.

my bet, you are going to NEED to be able to pull this battery out. you will need to clean under the battery compartment and to take a good eyeball the cables.
however if you find the truck really is electrically clean, then checking the inputs to the logics is the next step.
I would also say, that it may be from the explanation of the symptoms, that what the problem is, could well be related to the accelerator box and linkage,where the pot is not operating but the start switch and 1a switch is, but checking the inputs will tell us that..

I will do that now. I do not have any way to get the battery out of the truck as it is our only forklift. It is a good idea to check the cables. There are not that many of them.

if I may step in.
I would suggest that what you do is start at the beginning, and make no assumptions.
To start in the beginning of this unit's troubleshooting procedures (the book says 'before any other troubleshooting') would be to start with the truck drive tires off the ground, a good and well charged battery, and battery disconnected, and to check each and every power (not the small control wires, but the heavy cables) cable on this truck, and to insure that none have less than 100k ohms resistance between any part of the cable and the frame of this truck (NO GROUNDS). Trace and isolate any place you have less than 100k ohms, this includes the power cables that run under the battery compartment. Replace any cables that are cracked or seem to have the insulation 'swollen' or soaked from contamination (either oil or battery acid).
Once you are positive NO power cable on this truck has less than 100K ohms resistance to frame with battery disconnected, remove the battery from the truck (do not set on forks) and try to see what happens when you try and drive. With the battery electrically isolated from the truck frame, if you still have the same symptom, then the rest of the suggestions are the next steps, but get it 'clean' first.
if it still is the same, the next steps will involve you giving us the voltage reading on the 2 strips of screwed in wires on the EV100 card (they are number l for left and r for right and then 1 to 9, and what we will want to know are the voltages (with respect to battery negative) all these, but the correct answer will change depending on what step you are in in the normal start-up sequences.

mrfixit thanks I may take you up on that. I tested #1 rec and it tests fine as well as #2 and #5. I did the voltage test between t2 and positive.
key off 36.6v
key on 21v
creep 34.5v
triped 20.4 v
high gear 0 volts
It was hard to get it to engage high gear for some reason.

specequip, I have used parts, that work, for EV-1, like a #1 scr and control card that you can "borrow" if that's a way you want to try fixing it. My e mail is in the signature of my member details

specequip, your truck appears to be having a problem with it's voltage split. With the vehicle's drive wheels off the ground, disconnect the battery from the truck. Discharge the speed controllers capcitor item 14 with a DVOM. Once the capacitor is discharged place the leads of the DVOM T2 to POS as shown on pp 24 of the GEK publication, turn on the KS, place the directional control in either FWR or REV with brake pedal up, park brake off, seat occupied and the accelerator depressed from low speed to high. Note what the voltage readings are throughout. Post the results.

I just don't know how you guys do this! What a frusturating machine to work on. I like odb2 where it tells you where to look. The manual states take the wires off r5 and r6 and test r6 to ground for ohm. There is no wires on r5 and r6 doesn't register anything to chasis. So frusturating.

From what I can tell there is no double tripping at all. With no load everything trips once and then when the pmt happens it kills everything until the key reset. An interesting thing last night I tested the bad rec 2 with a test light and 12v and it tested fine. The recs might all be fine as it turns out. Does this change anything? I am going to test the pedal when someone gets in this morning as it takes 2 people.

specequip, If you are looking at publication GEK-40722 pp 36 will be pp 22. Are the FWR/REV contactors tripping or is just the high speed (1A) contact? Are FWR/REV single or double tripping?

pulled the thermal resistor it measures 180 ohms at room temperture. I heated it with a lighter and ohms increased to about 220 ohms so that is just fine!!