Fault 57 is a common result of a blown traction fuse. I teach all my tech's, if you must test a fuse in a truck, pay attention to the hundredths digit on your DVM. That will be the tell-tale sign. A good fuse will test the same on both sides, a blown fuse will have several hundredths difference. But it's always a good idea to remove any fuse to test it.

Well finally figured it out....The traction Fuse was bad, but will test good on the truck. It has to be removed to test properly. Voltage backfeeds somehow.

Thanks for everyones help, I appreciate it.

Richard

I have checked all the pins on the connectors, found a couple loose-fixed them and still no travel. Contractor kicks out and pops code 57 I checked the resistance thru shunt to card and it's 0.5 ohms. Same as a new one. Anymore ideas as I am stumped.

I have checked all the pins on the connectors, found a couple loose-fixed them and still no travel. Contractor kicks out and pops code 57 I checked the resistance thru shunt to card and it's 0.5 ohms. Same as a new one. Anymore ideas as I am stumped.

Take all the pins out of the plug, push on all the female pins with a small screwdriver, and reinstall the pins. You will need an extraction tool to get the pins out. Check all your connections where the other end of all the wires from the plug terminate. I have pulled on them and had them come right out of their terminals.
This battery connected backwards could be a faulty input to the control card. The card has to have a good positive and negative. On the ev100, negative is the brown wire in that 14 terminal plug. Not sure about the EVT100 which is what is in this truck.

does the motor run when you get the drive wheels in the air and jumper (push in the contacts) the 1a, and a direction contact?
when was the last time the battery was removed and the crud was cleaned and all the cable checked for "shorts to frame"?

The truck was operating fine, then I came in the next morning at it was tagged out. I am the only resident tech that works at this location, so it has not been messed with. Is it possible that the resistance through the shunt that the traction card is seeing is low or has an open circuit. I read in an old post that someone else had an issue with resistance in the A2 cable I think it was? The operator had told me also that the brake was stuck engaged and would not release.

it is possible to get the shunt wires turned the wrong way if you (or someone) has disconnected the shunt from the heat-sink and depending on the serial number of your truck, it may even have 2 shunts (one for regen on a heat-sink with only 1 stud diode, and the "main" one mounted to a heat-sink with 2 diodes and a connection to the battery negative power cable, I would expect your question to be about the "main" one)
how do -you- _know_ that the battery is not connected backwards?
are you asking which colored wire should be the one closer to the heat-sink on the "main" current sensor shunt?
the yellow should be the one closest to the heat-sink.

have you had the motor or chopper panel or contactors out lately?