Are there slots in the backing plates near the bottom?

Shoes are brand new and there is only 2 adjusters.

Those are the adjusters. There should be 4, one for each shoe. They are an eccentric cam that rotates and pushes the shoe outward towards the drum. The jumping must be when the highest spot on the cam goes by where it pushes the shoe. You have to turn all 4 adjusters so they push the shoes out close to the drum. If the adjusters rotate all the way around the shoes may be worn out. I would pull the drums and take a look in there.

Another question. How do you adjust the brake? On the top Inside, there is a 17mm nut that if you turn you feel resistance and it feel like if it jump something and free again. The pedal goes right to the floor. No air in the system.

Thanks!!

Look like the counterweight is not that heavy because the job is done and nothing happen.
At the end of the axle, i have 2 holes 10X1.25. Is it for grease nipples? And where do i get them?

Thanks!!!

John

Yes, the mast is going to weigh near 1,000 Lb.
Something else to consider here in jacking and blocking a truck for repairs where the mast system is being removed is that you must either remove the counterweight from the truck, or block up underneath the counterweight so that the counterweight mass does not become dominant when the mast mass is separated from the truck.
If the counterweight is left on and there is no blocking under it, the truck might tip backward when the mast is separated. This is something that must be addressed properly before unbolting the mast.

What oil did i put Inside the diff. The old one was red?

I would disconnect the hyd's first, then the 2 clamps. I've never weighed an upright but I'd guess in the 1,000 lb range.

You remove the seal from the inside. Now i have to remove the fork system. I disconnect the tilt cylinders and it look like there is 2 clamps bolt around the differential axle. You disconnect the hydraulic system and then the 2 clamps? also what is the weight of the fork system?
I send you pictures.

Thanks!!!

John

Received your pictures- it re-booted my brain on this truck- the 3 foot stick I remembered was the parking brake lever- not the f/r lever.

From your picture I believe the seal could be replaced with a long slide hammer for removal (you'd have to make a hook assy to grab the seal) & a piece of pipe to install from the end of the axle tube

The reason I asked on the model is because your lift has the weakest union between a crankshaft & torque converter I've ever seen. You have to disassemble the torque converter (it bolts together) in chassis & remove some snap rings to get the converter out to get to the union- which is a coupler about 2" thick held in place with 6- 5/16" bolts (or their metric equivalent). All power from the engine goes thru this coupler. Make sure you always come to a complete stop when changing direction, make sure you're always at idle when you either 1)- put trans in gear or 2)- release the inching pedal.

Once this coupler gets some play (bolts loosen/break), you'll start leaving a trail of ATF on the floor. It really leaks like crazy even if the coupler isn't really that loose. Very bad design & a real challenge to repair.

Well- to be honest I'm at a loss- sorry for the wrong directions. I've never seen an axle seal in the position you describe.

If you can- send me a picture of the lift to my email- I thought I knew this model- the earth could be off it's axis & I made a mistake LOL

lever by steering column

Does this lift have the f/r lever coming up out of the floorboard (about a 3 foot stick) or is the directional lever by the steering column as on a car?

No the seal is near the differential. So about 6 inche from the end of the tube and you remove it from Inside the differential. Or maybe i'm wrong.

If I follow you there's a seal just inside the axle tube (almost flush with the outer end of the tube). If I'm correct, this seal can be replaced without the differential being disassembled. If you put a pry bar across the opening of the axle tube with one end of the pry bar just inside the seal (catching the inside lip of the seal) it can be pried out. Replacing it is just as easy, using a small hammer to push the seal into position.