I am not sure what is going on now last week I had power at the 2 rectifiers that look like pig tails sorry i don't know all the correct terminology but Have voltage from the main power coming from the rail up and in to the the board but I have no power coming out from that point to those 2 rectifier's. I hate to keep bugging you but from my crude description what do you think could cause this? if i cant figure something out today i will have the crown guy next week.

Ha Ha yeah I have 2 of them in the warehouse they get the job done but are getting harder to find parts for. that would be great thank you i will keep digging for now thanks again chase

It could be that wouldn't be the first time I've run into that issue. I've never had the battery bdi go out from that.
Just make sure you drain the capacitors by doing a snap test across the terminals before touching the rectifiers otherwise you'll get a nice shock. I'll keep thinking about this one and post again if I think of anything else. These old SCR ones are super fun to work on

yeah the hydros work and there is no voltage drop when driving it. Could rectifiers 1 and 2 be a concern? its really odd driving me crazy ha i will keep digging but if you think of anything let me know

Both have diffrent paths back to the battery negative, so it would be unlikely. Does it allow you to use hydraulics at all? If not i wonder if the battery is dead or dying? Test the battery voltage at the battery cables with it plugged in, then watch it when you creep to see how low it drops. If it drops more than 10-15% your battery should be replaced.
In all honesty csble tracing on these old lifts is much easier than using the schematics as sometimes trucks are not wired the same as what is in the drawings.

Both of these issues started at the exact same time I would think that there has to be a common ground between the 2 issues. The gauge is dead and if i ease into the control i can get it to creep forward or backwards unless i move the stick to fast then it jus jolts and opens the contactors it will let you do it 2x then you have to power down and restart the lift. Its hard to believe that there is not a common ground causing both issues. Maybe i am crazy but i feel like i am chasing my tail on this one ha.

hey thanks for the quick reply i will try this out and let you know how it goes thanks chase

FU5 (15amp) is what powers the key switch and is what powers the DC to DC converter. If you are getting 3.9v before the key switch then it's possibly an issue with FU5. Otherwise when the key switch is in the on position the K1A relay. You can test this relay by testing the input at CA201-9 and output at CA201-5 on the distribution board.
For traction the motors go through FU1 (120amp). The traction scr card gets it's power from TB403-4.

These lifts are wired very differently from newer lifts. This lift need to see all the brake switches, presence petals and an input to work. If the brake switches won't close then the next switch will not get powered.
This lift also is a contactor based lift so most likely if it does move a bit then shuts off, one or more of the contactor tips is pitted or has too much resistance due to wear to allow enough voltage through.

Hopefully that is a good starting point, let me know if you want me to go more in depth about something.

Let me know what you come up with anything is much appreciated that could point me in the right direction thanks again chase

My bad I should have said that it was a reach lift

I assumed this was for the SP3000? Do you know what type of lift this is? Reach, sit down, order picker?

I will take a look this is referring to the 3020-30 lifts wiring?

For the battery guage it sounds like the control fuse (fu2) or the K1B relay on the distribution board could be going bad. The display module gets its power from both, the fuse being the closest to the battery.
On the display module CA303, 9 is your negative input and 8 is your battery positive input. You should see 24v at CA303-8 when testing to CA303-9.
For your travel issue, the travel controller is powered off FU5 and the motors take power from FU13.