modle # l5k040nft077
serial # p250510
type lp
engine does look newer. does lp stand for LP? because it is gas.
just trying to find rear main seal and wheel seal. wish I had service/ parts manual!

jacked up one side of fork lift to repair starter and find rear main leak, now wheel seal leaking. hope I didn't damage axel housing. I guess I'll have to pull axel to remove seal to match up? or do you know seal #. Thanks in advance, Bill

Is that a Continental 4 cylinder flat head motor? If so, you need a Continental oil pan gasket kit with seal F4U03004, Yale # 220073529. You can get that at a Yale dealer, forklift repair service, industrial motor machine shop, or maybe NAPA. You're going to have to "roll" that upper filler block piece out of the block to install the upper half of the seal. That may be tricky.

early posts have modle #. any idea what seal # it is or where to go to get the seal?

You can try tightening those bolts, but I've found that once the rear main seal begins to leak, there's not much you can do but replace the seal. The seal itself is a 2 piece rope seal.

thanks, works great now, but now the rear main seal is leaking. there's a piece that has two 5/6" 12 point bolts on the bottom, can I tighten to stop leak? and/or does this machine have a 1 piece or 2 piece rear main seal? Thanks in advance, Bill

added lucas and trans. fluid oil almost a qt. I hope this works!
a little bit of metal shavings but I think that's normal.
keep watching my posts cause I have other issues. Thanks again, Bill.

not a problem, if I would've sent a picture you would have known. But still keep posting! Thanks, Bill

I know it dose not need to be removed. I should have suggested checking the fluid coupling level in the first place as it was it turned out to be an after thought, but lets face it I'm relying on my memories from 40 years ago.

Titus

Thanks, I seen the pipe plug thru the bell housing holes. so have the hole to the top and fill completely with atf?
Thanks so much, you all are the best!!!

Will all due respect- Titus- I don't believe the clutch assy needs to be removed to fill the fluid coupling. On the outside circumference of the coupling there should be a pipe plug. It should be accessible thru the holes in the bellhousing (you'll probably have to turn the engine over by hand to find it). Remove the plug & fill with ATF- the newest Dextron will do. Fill it as high as you can.

Yes I remember the L51C and DP51 quite well having changed a few clutch plates on them in my time. You don't need to take the engine out or transmission to do this repair, remove the top of the clutch and fluid fly wheel housing, I can't remember whether or not you remove the cross shaft or not, lossesen of the clutch diaphram and remove the clutch release bearing return spring witch I always found to be a mystery how to refit, move the clutch diaphram back and you will see a circlip located on a shaft that runs through the diaphram and clutch plate and locates in the fluid coupling,release the circling, at the end of this shaft is a threaded hole, find a bolt you can screw into it and weld a pull ring onto the end of it, screw it into the shaft, pass a bar through it and you will be able to pull the shaft out enabling you to remove the diaphram and clutch plate, reassemble in the reverse order, before you do any of this check the fluid coupling level a telus hydraulic oil is all you need to top it up if low. I think it's telus 21 oil.
Happy days ?

Regards Titus

it does have the fluid coupling, slipping bad. how do I check and or fill and what type of fluid. Thanks in advance, Bill

The L51C model had a few options- usual dry clutch (manual trans), dry clutch coupled to a fluid coupling (a simple type of torque converter) w/ manual trans & an automatic.

Assuming you have a manual- if you send me a picture of your bellhousing I can tell you if you have a fluid coupling or not.

The L51 series was built in the late '60's & early '70's.