I have a 7FGCU32 that I was told is very similar to the 7FGCU25, this is a LPG model. The problem started as the truck would run but if it died we would have to pull the LPG line off the tank to release pressure then it would restart right away, but it still ran but the rpm's had to stay up using the throttle so it wouldn't die, if it died we had to relieve the pressure again. So I was told it was the regulator, so I removed and I rebuilt the regulator, which cured that problem, now it does start back up without having to disconnect the tank, but it idles rough and after a bit wont idle on its own.... if you keep it running with the throttle in neutral it seems to rev up and run great, but if you put it in forward or reverse it loses pawer and can not make it up even the smallest incline... it can move itself along on flat concrete but with little power. After getting the service manual, and understanding it a bit, I see that the OPS light is flashing 2 times then stays on then flashes again.. Turns out there is a sensor in the seat that is not hooked up, I see the wire going to it, but I believe the seat was replaced prior to us getting the lift and there is no sensor in the seat... now the manual says the problems I have are similar to those I would have if that sensor were bad or no one was sitting in the seat, due to the fact that it runs good when in neutral.... does anyone know how I can bypass this sensor? or if there are any other adjustments on the regulator or carb that I can try?
Showing items 16 - 21 of 21 results.
the big screw is for idle. there is a small screw under the cap at the top of the reg. you have to drill a small hole about.125" below the top of the extrusion. use a small pick or allen wrench to pop the plug out. turn the screw in till it stops and turn it out about 2.5 turns. try to start. turn.5" at a time and continue to try starting engine until it starts and idles. then try to adjust it and the big screw till it runs good. once its idling you can try disconnecting the hose on the bottom of the side with 4 screws. if performance improves you can plug the end of the hose and leave it off....do not block it and put it back on the reg...if you want to fix it right let us know. it requires another much larger plug to be removed. 7 pounds is too much. the pressure needs to be 5 or below. put the guage back on and accelerate the truck (simulate loaded condition by using hydraulics) if the pressure drops rebuild again if not we're back to the hose.
The big screw on the side of the carb... How far should it be out, they messed around with that and now I am not sure if it is out too far or in too far...... That is the idle right?
I just removed the fuel hose, there was no pressure when solenoid was unplugged so I tested the 1/4 line at the top of the regulator per your instruction, there is more than 4 lbs of pressure, probably more like 7-8 with the meter. I am not sure if this has an electric throttle, I want to say no it doesn't because I see the cable at the carb and it has the same play as the pedal does I will go out and check if there is more or if the cable goes right to the pedal or to a electronic box. They say it always had power and didnt lose power like it does now, the reason for rebuilding the regulator in the first place was because the idle was horrible and you had to keep it running, if it died then you had to disconnect the LP and reconnect then it would start back up...or you could wait.. it was like you had to relieve the pressure...
i just niticed that this truck is a 32, does it have an electronic throttle? there could be some issues with the "power valve". it's hidden under a tamper plug but can be accessed. to test remove the hose on the bottom of the regulator that connects to the (outside) cover. if your performance problem improves let me know and one of us will guide you through removing the plug.
I would also check the carberator and in manifold. I have seem them build up with sludge up and cause problems.
the regulator usually affects idle and starting more profoundly than upper rpms as overfueling is usually the result of regulator problems. that said, was the power problem there before you overhauled the reg? to check your work on the o-haul disconnect the wires to the upper solenoid...remove the fuel hose that goes to the carb...hold your thumb over it and crank the engine...there should be no fuel. if that is ok put a fuel pressure guage on the 1/4" fuel line on the top of the reg and crank the engine.. 3 1/2 to 5 psi. let us know your findings. as for the seat switch its jumped or you wouldn't have lift or travel. it does not have to be connected to work as long as its jumped but the light will warn you that the switch is jumped.
Forkliftaction.com accepts no responsibility for forum content and requires forum participants to adhere to the rules. Click here for more information.