Discussion:
Genie GS3268

Hello... I'm new to the forums and am hoping someone here is familiar with Genie lifts. I am working on a gas powered 4x4 lift. Two of the wheels are not driving. I have checked the main pump, some of the solenoid valves, electrical all seems good, have had the drive motors apart...seem ok. Have done the pressure tests on the two test ports one is fine the other is low, but can't figure out why. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
  • Posted 29 Jun 2016 09:24
  • Discussion started by Snype32
  • Manitoba, Canada
Showing items 16 - 30 of 34 results.
Hey thank you Swoop223,

A genie service mechanic from the local dealer came and checked out my lift, he told me the left front and right rear drive motors need to be replaced, so I ordered and replaced them and it seems worse, it has LOTS OF RESISTANCE when it drives, almost like it has the brake on but it dosen't.

I'm going to check for something in the manifold, with it jacked up if I start to raise the platform the left front drive wheel starts to turn??????

Todd
  • Posted 24 Jan 2020 09:49
  • Modified 24 Jan 2020 10:30 by poster
  • Reply by 15FoxRzr
  • California, United States
hey Todd,
your unit doesn't have the hub lockout caps then it will have a brake release mechanisim.
The hub lockout caps were not used on this model, only a hex nut lock cap that holds the nut for the hub onto motor assy.
If you want to move this unit if it is not drivable then you'll have to use the manual brake release.
The brake release hand pump manifold is mounted at the non-steer end of
the chassis on the ground controls side of the machine.
  • Posted 24 Jan 2020 09:23
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
Hi there,

Swoop223, does my 4x4 GS 2668 RT have the lock out mechanism on the hubs also? I dont see the cap with the dimple on it.... Do you have pictures?

Model : GS 2668 RT 4X4
Serial : GS6805-44399

Thank you
Todd
  • Posted 24 Jan 2020 08:49
  • Modified 24 Jan 2020 08:55 by poster
  • Reply by 15FoxRzr
  • California, United States
Thank you so much for your valuable info. I'll try to drive it that way just be able to bring it to get it fixed. I'll keep you updated. Thank you again.
  • Posted 3 Nov 2019 19:15
  • Reply by mrcag
  • California, United States
blessings
you can drive it around but i would recommend locking out that motor using the lockout mechanism on the hub of the wheel in question.
If you look at the drive hub there is a cap with a dimple on it, has two 1/4" bolts holding it on. Take it off and flip it over with the dimple pointing inward. Once you get it off you'll see a release pin inside, that dimple pushes on that and unlocks the gears inside the drive hub.
I wouldn't recommend driving it this way except only to move it from one area to the place you're going to repair it. Do not drive it like this full time. With a bad drive motor you will experience problem driving it over terrain or up hills etc.
There could also be something wrong with the drive manifold causing that issue. You need to get a 5000 psi pressure guage and test pressures on the drive system and make sure all the pressures are correct according to the manual. Also checking drive motors and the drive manifold valves can be a task to do, and can get messy.
if you're not a genie tech i would strongly recommend calling one in for this.
  • Posted 3 Nov 2019 14:38
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
Hi,
I'm new to this forum. I've just purchased a GENIE GS-3268RT SCISSOR LIFT and one of the drive motors are not working. Is it possible to move it around like that since it's a 4x4? If not then what are the steps anyone can advise me to take? Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • Posted 3 Nov 2019 12:56
  • Reply by mrcag
  • California, United States
blessings
snype,
great, glad you finally found it.
yes sometimes these things can be difficult to find even for those that are trained and work on them everyday.
The fact you found a piece of steel lodged in the check valve sort of concerns me that it had to come from somewhere but...
unless you find alot of it then i wouldn't worry to much about that, it could of been a piece of machined metal left inside a manifold block when it was made and was just floating around till it got caught up in that valve. Lets hope so anyway :o)

yes as far as that other problem checking the other valves in that circuit is a good idea, you may find another stuck by debris. If it does it consistently then that shouldn't be too hard to find.

good luck
  • Posted 5 Jul 2016 22:24
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
Well at long last I found it. It was a check valve that had to do with #26 check valve or Z in the manual. Had a piece of steel stuck in it. Thanks for all the help! It's much appreciated.

Now as for the other issue, it's not that the engine idles down...I know it's supposed to do that after the handle is released. This is a bit different. What is happening is that when the handle is squeezed, engine revs up as its supposed to, but is straining. I have noticed that the outrigger lines move as if there is a lot of pressure. After about 15 seconds, the engine is still revved up but the strain leaves. The outrigger lines relax. It seems like it is trying to pressure up something, but a relief is taking too long to release. I think I'm going to start by looking at the outrigger pressure relief.
  • Posted 5 Jul 2016 04:42
  • Reply by Snype32
  • Manitoba, Canada
snype32
yes that is normal that the machine will initiate when the handle is squeezed, the engine will rev up for a brief period and then when the system has no demand on it , then it will return to an idle state.

As far as the initial problem with the drive system i still think there is a malfunctioning check valve allowing the fluid to bypass in that circuit for that side.
  • Posted 4 Jul 2016 21:48
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
Also have noticed something...Not sure if it's related or not. If the lift is started and idling and the joystick handle is squeezed, the engine revs up. It is supposed to do this, but it sounds like the engine is working hard for about 10-15 seconds. Then suddenly it eases up as if the load has been removed. This is without any directional or lift action, just squeezing the handle. This lift has always done this, but it doesn't seem right.
  • Posted 3 Jul 2016 01:52
  • Reply by Snype32
  • Manitoba, Canada
Thanks for the reply... I have taken apart both of those valves and even swapped them to see if the issue would switch sides.. I swapped the wiring too. No change. As far as the solenoids getting a signal, as soon as I disconnect one, the machine gives an error code, so I'm assuming that the electrical side of things is good. I have taken apart and inspected every solenoid involved with the drive circuit and they all look good. This machine is getting extremely frustrating. With an issue this obvious, I would think I should be able to find an obvious cause. Thanks for all the effort you are putting into this.
  • Posted 3 Jul 2016 01:46
  • Modified 3 Jul 2016 01:47 by poster
  • Reply by Snype32
  • Manitoba, Canada
ok after looking at the hydraulic diagram the 'B' variable control valve on the manifold control these motors.
I would start there and check and make sure that control solenoid valve is getting signal at its coils.
You can take the control wires off the working solenoid variable valve for the left front and right rear motors and move them to this one and see if the symptom changes, this will verify if the valve is working or not.
If the symptom does not change then you may be looking for a stuck check valve in that circuit or maybe a valve with a broken oring.
I know using the diagrams in the manual can be confusing because they may list 'letters' for each component in the diagram but the corresponding information is always listed in another section explaining what the letters are. You just have to spend some time looking through the manual to find this information.

Just remember the orientation of the controller will remain the same so you will have to keep this in mind when working the control handle. And always make sure you have the wheels off the ground when testing so you will not have any unexpected movement of the machine. Or you can disengage the wheels using the lockouts on each wheel hub to prevent machine movement, but locking out wheel hubs does make it harder to tell if the motors are working correctly.
  • Posted 1 Jul 2016 20:57
  • Modified 1 Jul 2016 21:00 by poster
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
It's the front (steering) right and rear left. I did the plug the motor lines test like you suggested...no change. I didn't know that genie has tech support.. I'll give that a try too.

Thanks!
  • Posted 1 Jul 2016 14:25
  • Modified 1 Jul 2016 14:27 by poster
  • Reply by Snype32
  • Manitoba, Canada
snype
can you be more specific on which 2 wheels are not driving?
  • Posted 1 Jul 2016 13:58
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
Have you spoken with Genie's tech support people? 1-800-536-1800
  • Posted 30 Jun 2016 23:31
  • Reply by Techtrainer64
  • Kentucky, United States

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