Testing components properly would save your clients or yourself the added cost of replacing good parts.
I have had 3 occurrences of a bad power card causing code 23 with no other components found defective. Replace card all good.

There is no one answer for code 23. Aside from testing the drive components properly.

I usually find that the Q1 are shorted to the heat sink it sits on. I change the Q1, 1 REC and 2 REC as a set and have good luck. If there is still no travel the YES it could be a power card. CROWN does make a nice truck but Raymonds are easier to repair.

many test are needed for Q!

good, batteries, clean cards, tight connections, good static straps will give you new faith! kinda goes for any machine.

I have read through these posts. I am not a Raymond guy. I have a code 23, and after investigation the drive motor brushes were worn but only half of the brushes were. I had the motor freshened and still had code 23. I have 1 ohm on the 2 resisters, 3.5 volts through my diode. Checked all cables and checked the heat sink insulator. Can someone help me with the raymond term, is the rec the black gate on the heat sink, I checked that, 50 ohms between the ground and gates I guess, and not sure what the q1 is. On the heat sink I have 24 volts with my positive lead. Hope you raymond guys can help me out.

Neochuck you are wasting Internet space read the posts before you write yours I believe raytech had answered the question already but I just wanted to add bout hard pedals the pallet truck 8900 from Raymond have this problem too veery stiff pedals, because of the heavy duty spring on the master cylinder... Most Raymond trucks with electric brakes have pretty soft pedals at least most raymonds.

I know this is an old thread..

test Q1... likely a short between the emitter and the base (plate)

wow very comprehensive thanks

I have had this in the past and it had a couple bad brushes. Also I found some PAPERCLIPS had gotten behind the cover and making contact between the truck frame and heatsink. I hate those **** paperclips.

Crown? OMG....try driving one all day...those heavy dead man pedals will leave you with very sore legs!
Yes, all trucks have their problems. Those power cards fails after years of banging into walls and other trucks. These trucks get abused! Many a dead reach truck had the tell tale sign of a collision.....lots of dust and debris dropped from underneath. Often, code 26 on display would be the CD8 card popped out from impact! Push back in and away he goes. On the A/C
drive reach, the 3 relays on power card pop out...2V code. That power card breaks it's soldered fuse holders as well...always check those first.
I have to say that it's good to see a tech that CHECKED the Q1 and REC1 instead just chaging everything! If it checks good, keep going...look for shorts , chafing, cards that are hanging out, broken electrical componants.
I get so ticked when I hear "code 23 means you change eveything" "the hat trick, Q1, power card,transister modules" God, even had an instructer say that..."change it all"
In all my years working on Raymonds, never had to change "all of it"
One importanrt tip on EZ DC reach trucks.....
Always remove the heat sink with Code 23, check the insulation for holes, cuts. This short will not show up with ohmeter. Under load, the voltage will spike. Any older truck will typically have a pinhole. Make sure to sand it smooth before installing a double insulation strip. Check for shorts in drive motor, lift and steer. Less than 1000 ohms is a serious short. Be sure to check 1 ohm resisters (2) on heat sink. Check all diode's by unhooking them. Q1 tests just like diode's with "diode check" only...not ohmeter. There will be a.3 to.45 volt drop on diode tester in one direction, then "OL" on other dir.
Hope this hepls someone out there>>>especially you Crown lovers...lol

they ALL have problems (thank goodness or even more of us would be looking for work) and the more you know about them the more you know about the "less than perfect" things about them too.

It turned out to be the power card. These trucks worked perfect for the first few years of service and all at once these electronics are popping. The motors and cables look like new and the machines are maintained religously so I don't get it. I used to have a lot of faith in the Raymond line but I'm leaning towards Crown now.

Did you test the motor?
Also if you took all those things apart did you put the power cable through the transducer on the power card the right way?

They test ok but I have seen them break down under load. We usually change all the gizzmos

q1 rec1 & 2 and resistors and snubbers all tested normal. Maybe I'm assuming the cables are ok so I'm back in there tomorrow morning and will check them out. Thanks