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Forum:

Mechanical Troubleshooting

Brand: Mitsubishi - Model: FG35AB

Number of messages: 5

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BobR
Kentucky, United States

I have an fg35 that's driving me nuts. It's had several ignition problems lately. In the last year we have replaced the ignition switch, rotor button and electronic pickup/sensor in the distributor. After each of these repairs the forklift ran fine for a while. Now we have another problem. The lift starts fine, but when you release the key, the lift dies when the key goes to the run position. We've checked the ignition switch. It puts current to the ignition terminal when in the run position. We checked and found current to the coil and distributor. What could cause it to die immediately when you release the key. You can hold the key near the start position, to the point the strarter does not engage and the forlift will run fine.

Posted 25 Apr 2009 02:01 AM

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fixitandy
Pennsylvania, United States

sounds like a faulty key switch, you said that you tested the current in the run position, but I think that what you mean is that you tested the voltage or continuity. the circiut is not able to conduct properly under the load of actual operation probably due to a poor contact inside the switch.

Posted 25 Apr 2009 03:01 PM

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edward_t
South Carolina, United States

this unit may well have an external resistor coil, and the resistor has gone bad.(sometimes these burn up when the key is left in the on position and the unit not running) the resistor is bypassed in the start position of the key switch.
I have also seen this with the ground (negative side of circuit) of the coil case not supplying the negative side of the circuit. this can be if the coil is not tight in it's clamp, and/or the clamp itself not getting good ground, including from the strap from the frame to the motor. (too much paint of the frame can cause this) I would check and clean all the ground side leads, if for no other reason than all the other electrical related failures you have had.
there are also some of these units that over the years have had a break internal to the 12volt battery positive from key to coil wire (right near the coil) where the insulation is still OK but the metal of the wire has broken due to "sympathetic vibrations" because the motor and frame do not shake at the same speed, and the wire is what runs from the engine to the frame, try pulling the wire to the coil, if it stretches, then you have a break internal to the wire where it stretches.

Modified 25 Apr 2009 10:16 PM
by poster.

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justinm
New York, United States

my moneys on the resistor lol

i think there was another thread like this a few weeks ago

-------------------------
New York, New York its a heluva town ..you know that The Bronx is up ..and im Brooklyn down

Posted 28 Apr 2009 12:36 AM

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BobR
Kentucky, United States

Edward, You are a genius. We checked the ground on the coil first, it was OK. Then we located the resistor and checked with ohmmeter. It had continuity, but we went ahead and made a temporary jumper and bypassed it. Voila, started and ran perfectly. We I called my parts dist. however, I found you can't buy the resistor without buying the coil. He recommended I go to NAPA and pick up an automotive resistor. We did and the unit is working fine. Thanks a million.

Posted 15 May 2009 00:40 AM

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