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DISCUSSION FORUMS : Forkliftaction.communicate
Forum: Lifting machines
Discussion:  Electric forklift CAT EP20KT wont stay running
Number of messages: 15
START MESSAGE:
Somiya
British Columbia, Canada 		I have issue with Electric 36 V CAT EP20KT. It wont stay running. battery fully charges, on trucking key runs for 20 sec and dies with no sound.

Any help will be appreciated

Posted 17 Jun 2012 03:54 AM Reply  Report this message
REPLIES: Sort replies by
Jplayer
North Carolina, United States

 		no error codes on the display?
try another battery source? volts may be good with voltmeter, try taking a per cell reading on each cell.
check it while truck is powering up and see if there is a significant voltage drop.
i assume the line contactor is pulling in and then dropping out after 20 secs?
once again, do any codes display on the dash before it shuts down?



-------------------------
John Player Jr
_________________
LiftOne, LLC
Charlotte, NC
Email: jplayer@liftone.net

Modified 17 Jun 2012 01:00 PM
by poster. 		Reply  Report this message
Somiya
British Columbia, Canada 		No codes on display before or after shut down. Tried wiggling some wires underneath, it work for couple of minutes and again same issue. Can it be loose contact?

Posted 17 Jun 2012 04:53 PM Reply  Report this message
Jplayer
North Carolina, United States

 		well if wiggling those wires changed the symptom and it ran longer then yes, i would say that is where your problem is.
which wires are they? located where? underneath the front at the drive motors?

-------------------------
John Player Jr
_________________
LiftOne, LLC
Charlotte, NC
Email: jplayer@liftone.net

Posted 17 Jun 2012 11:11 PM Reply  Report this message
Somiya
British Columbia, Canada 		Yes, those wires underneath drive motor and around it. Believe some debris may have come in from front when using truck. Do you think those wires can lead to such abnormal function?

Posted 17 Jun 2012 11:36 PM Reply  Report this message
Jplayer
North Carolina, United States

 		yes they can
there are speed sensor wires and also current sensor wires in those wire groupings and if any get damaged they can keep the lift from moving. generally they will cause a code to show up but i guess its possible that you might not see a code and it still not run. But if you can wiggle those wires and the truck will run longer i would say you have a faulty circuit there.
The ones i have found this type of problem with the wiring had gotten damaged and i had to repair the wires.
See what you can find and make whatever repair you need to make.

-------------------------
John Player Jr
_________________
LiftOne, LLC
Charlotte, NC
Email: jplayer@liftone.net

Posted 18 Jun 2012 08:21 PM Reply  Report this message
Somiya
British Columbia, Canada 		Thanks for your help. I noticed that speed indicator keeps on changing between 10 and 20 even when truck is no moving or running. My question is how can I identify speed sensor wires. How can I replace whole cable and sensor if need be.

Posted 19 Jun 2012 02:00 AM Reply  Report this message
Jplayer
North Carolina, United States

 		ok Somiya,
those numbers you see on the dash display are error codes
code 10 and 20 have to do with the armature circuit in the drive motors. code 10 being the right drive motor and code 20 being the left drive motor armatures.
The actual description of the code is "Faulty Armature Circuit"

Although the code indicates a faulty armature circuit it can be caused by a large variation of problems dealing in the motor circuit. Since you have already stated you can move those wires at the motors underneath the front of the truck and it changes how the truck reacts i feel it would be safe to say they have a problem and need repairing.
There are actually 3 circuits you are dealing with with those wires, a speed sensor, motor brush sensor wires, and thermal sensor wires. Any of these can cause interruption of the trucks operation if they are damaged.
As for which wires are which?
The thermal sensor wires are yellow and numbered 28 for the left thermal switch and 26 for the right thermal switch.
The brush indicator wires are white(27) on the right motor and lavender(29) on the left motor. There is a green(or gray) wire(35) that is for ground.

The speed sensor wires are:
Right motor- yellow(43), black(45)
Left motor- lavender(47), gray(or green)(49)

Now i am not sure on the green/gray wires because all the wiring schematic shows is a "G" and does not specify, but they should be numbered which is why i included the numbers also. One thing i noticed is they are negative circuit wires so the G might just mean "ground" i'm not positive.

I hope this is helpful, i would send the schematic but due to my position i cannot, sorry.


-------------------------
John Player Jr
_________________
LiftOne, LLC
Charlotte, NC
Email: jplayer@liftone.net

Modified 19 Jun 2012 08:32 AM
by poster. 		Reply  Report this message
Somiya
British Columbia, Canada 		Thanks a lot. You are awesome. I will try my best to work around these and communicate more if needed.

Posted 19 Jun 2012 09:04 AM Reply  Report this message
Somiya
British Columbia, Canada 		I called technician for final diagnosis and he said
Diode OK, Drive Transistor OK, Armature OK, cables OK.

The lift drive works when I change from N to forward and keep that way. As soon as touch the acceleration pedal give code 10,20,13.

So his next recommendation is to replace H bridge Board, Drive Board and thermo sensor. This is quite expensive proposition.

I cleaned board with rubbing alcohol and reinstalled it, but shows no improvement.


Is there any way to fix this? Can I get board tested and fixed without replacing at high cost? Is there is salvage parts available somewhere? The total quote repair is over 2500$.

Posted 30 Jun 2012 01:58 AM Reply  Report this message
Jplayer
North Carolina, United States

 		Hello Somiya,
well assuming that you did what i suggested previously and that did not solve the problem. Some of what your tech says sounds reasonable. The drive boards in these units are notorious for going out so that part i can agree with, and yes the drive board has a proceedure for testing for open diodes etc. As far as the H-Bridge and thermo sensor? I suppose those could be contributing to the failure in some way but not being there with 'hands on' the machine checking it myself i cannot say definatlely he is correct. Generally when you replace the H-Bridge you also replace the drive transistors, at least that is what the service manual suggests because if one goes out it usually takes out the other component.
So with that being said if the transistors checked good then i doubt the H-Bridge is bad. But as i said since i am not there performing the diagnosis i cannot say for sure.

If it were me? i would replace the drive board first, then go from there.
Sorry i could not be of more help to you

good luck sir


-------------------------
John Player Jr
_________________
LiftOne, LLC
Charlotte, NC
Email: jplayer@liftone.net

Posted 2 Jul 2012 01:20 AM Reply  Report this message
Somiya
British Columbia, Canada 		There are 3 board in machine on top of each other.
I will like to know which one is drive board.

Posted 2 Jul 2012 01:54 AM Reply  Report this message
swoop223
North Carolina, United States 		logic card is on top
drive board is middle(has 1/2 watt diodes on it)
h-bridge is on bottom mounted to heatsink


-------------------------
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com

Posted 3 Jul 2012 00:01 AM Reply  Report this message
Somiya
British Columbia, Canada 		Changed H bridge, Changed Driver board but still shows error code 10 and 20. I need real help to resolve this issue.
Any more suggestion??

Posted 27 Jul 2012 09:52 AM Reply  Report this message
joram_s
madrid, Spain

 		Error 10 and 20.

Check steering motor, for low short. Blow motor.

-------------------------
Email soyjoram@gmaildotcom

Posted 18 Aug 2012 07:47 AM Reply  Report this message


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