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Caterpillar GP30K Check Engine Light & Service Manual

Number of messages: 7

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Howitt
Ohio, United States

We Have A Cat GP30K Serial # AT13E31068
Check Engine Light Is On, How Do We Access The Codes? Is There List Of Codes Some One Can Email Me?
If Software Is Required What Is It Called & Is There Part # For The Cable?
Or Even Better Could Someone Email Me A Service Manual?
Thanks
Email Howitt937 At Gmail dot com
-Matt

Posted 12 Aug 2009 11:46 AM

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edward_t
North Carolina, United States

this is a "tier 2" impco, there is a software program and cables to access the codes, as well as a method to get the codes to flash on the dash MIL light without the software and cables. the cables are not cheap for this unit.
the software does not "fix" anything. what other symptoms are you seeing? does the unit run correctly?
On this unit, it is possible to clear codes by disconnection of the battery for approx. 30 min., so first, pull off the neg. battery cable and go to lunch, and connect it upon return, and see if the light is out. I would then check the accel pedal stop and make sure someone did not adjust the bolt downward thinking they would get more speed from their truck, this will set a code since the ECM thinks the accel sensor is out of range.
The first thing I would do would be to check the same things I would check if there were no software, and that is the basics. got fuel? coolant? all wires connected when key is on?

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webhome = forktechs.com

Posted 12 Aug 2009 08:34 PM

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Prentice
Ontario, Canada

I agree with Ed,
Check the simple things first......you would be surprised

Posted 12 Aug 2009 10:41 PM

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Howitt
Ohio, United States

Gave It a Full Tune Up, Runs Slightly better But Running Lean & Missing
Jumped Pins B&D (Tier II) It Flash 6 And 4 Or 64 Not Sure.
Still has The check Engine Light On

Posted 19 Aug 2009 08:48 AM

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edward_t
North Carolina, United States

it should flash a 3 digit code, and will flash it 3 times before moving to the next 3 digit code, and it has a code that tells when it starts the cycle that will also flash 3 times, and I believe the first 3 sets of flashes are going to always be 166, so you see 166, 166, 166, then the next set of flashes that happen 3 times will be the actual codes. if you don't have any codes, it will flash 166 again 3 times, or actually untill you turn off the key and remove the jumper.
Have you cleaned the goop out of the regulator?
Have you adjusted the air gap of the crankshaft sensor with a non-magnetic feeler gage?
Did you gap the plugs?
On the throttle body there are 2 vacuum hoses, tell me which on (upper or lower) goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor.
If you remove the hose from the air-filter, does it run any better?
Do NOT test the white and red wires that run to the vacuum control solenoid valve mounted on top of the LPG regulator, unless you want to purchase a new ECU. You should be able to feel this valve clicking. it is a pulsed signal and you may well fry the computer testing these wires.
If removing the air filter hose improves the running, you have the vac. lines to what looks like a tee on this valve in the wrong spots.
Unless you have replaced the computer, do NOT shorten the long vac. line that runs from the throttle body to the ECU, in spite of the fact that it looks way to long, it is not.
what part of Ohio are you located in?

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webhome = forktechs.com

Modified 20 Aug 2009 07:21 AM
by poster.

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Howitt
Ohio, United States

I Gapped The Plugs @ .290
I Dissassembled & Cleaned Nearly The Entire LP Fuel System, It Was Dirty But Ive Seen & Cleaned Worse. Yet It Didnt Seem to Make a difference.
I Disconnected The ECU & It Ran Exactly The Same With No Difference.
It Starts Easily And Idles Ok Until You Rev The Engine Where it begins to starve for fuel & mis
Im In Dayton

Modified 19 Aug 2009 12:32 AM
by poster.

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edward_t
North Carolina, United States

When you say "I Disconnected The ECU & It Ran Exactly The Same" can we assume you are referring to the vacuum line and not the electrical connection? when I said; "removing the air filter hose improves the running" I was referring to removing the air filter system itself from the air intake (the big hose).
My edumacted guess...
You have the vacuum lines on what looks like a tee fitting (but is not) right next to the vacuum solenoid control valve in the wrong places, swap the 2 longer hoses (top 2) on that tee and let us know what happens.

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webhome = forktechs.com

Modified 19 Aug 2009 08:35 PM
by poster.

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